For those looking for the HB shock, look no further....but don't delay

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=HOT61695

Thanks spdtch, reminded me I needed to re-install Acrobat Reader . . .

Done. Thank you.

I've just ordered an LRP Sphere 2007 spec esc for my 12th car, what is the smallest gauge wire I can use? (Sorry, the search function is not working for me at the moment ??)

16 awg wire is imo the smallest wire you can use.

jonas

Benn looking to get a 12 Scale and was looking at the Yokomo12L4 Worlds kit . I no the car been out for a few years and was wondering if the car is still competitive? Any body no about the car

Hi Boscoj. This is my b'shell routine. Cut the extra lexan from below the cut lines all around the b'shell. Mark the shell with a pen for the hole to let the roll over mast through. Then use a REAMER to cut that hole out. Then line the shell up and mark where the holes need to be for the 4 bodyposts. Use the reamer again to made these holes. Then mount the shell (the wheel arches are still in place at this point) onto your chassis making sure it is at the correct height for when you race the car. Now mark the wheel arches where the axles are in the middle of the arches and slightly outside of where the tyres will be inside the shell. Now take the shell off the chassis and use a COMPASS CUTTER to get perfectly round wheel arches. Give the edges a sanding to get rid of the sharp edges that can dig into your tyres during a crash and hopefully your now good to go. Feel free to ask any questions in you are not sure about something.

Cheers bud, Chris.

Go with 16 gauge easy to work with, light weight and more than enough to handle the load.

Hey Guys not to place another which car I should get.

Well here the delema. I used to run a hyperform l4 conversion kit last season. Since Lino past away.(may he rest in Peace). I just loved that car. unfortunatly I broke a bottom pob plate, at the end off last season. So this year I've been running a sp12x. nothing but problems for me. (don't know just not working for me)

So, one does any one know if there is anywhere there may still have the Razor in stock. ( I had the the orginal) to pick up or any one willilng or know of one for sale.

or does anyone know of any other great conversion kit's for the L4. I was thinking of getting the r5 but that won't be avail for a few weeks. If were lucky.

So if anyone can give any insight please either post here or send me a PM

Thanks

the diggity design conversion kit is good i heard, but i cant tell you where to get it, rcscrewz used to carry it, but not anymore. (those bastards )

Hi mate, I have sent parts to 'fibre lyte' here in the UK. They produce the same part (or with any options you may want done) and send it back. I know you won't wanna do that with that particular company (coz of the distance, cost, etc) but you should have something similar closer to where you come from.

Good luck, Chris.

Serpent 120 Pics NOW available!
Looks pretty sweet!

http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=204633&page=3

I know that having Li-po is abit of a stretch right now for 12th scale, but here is a link to an ebay auction of a 12th scale with a Li-Po pack installed: http://cgi.ebay.com/ASSOCIATED-1-12-...QQcmdZViewItem

Cyrrus, here you go, the address and contact information for you to get another Hyperform Car. Heath Jackson is the guy to talk to. Maximus was Lino's stomping grounds for testing the cars, so he might still have some.Here is the info:

Conversion kits they are $120 shipped in the US via Priority
Mail.

Heath Jackson

Maximus Hobby Shop
Meadowbrook Plaza
647, US Route 1
York, Maine 03909
207.351.1520
www.teammaximus.com

This board and it's users rocks!

So my first day with my newly built RC12L4 was Saturday(yesterday). Old weak 1700 NiCds, a rear axle that was coming "un-shimmed" all the time, diff put together . . . I'm still wondering if the manual is right. The bearing carrier was installing itself properly making the tire hit the pod frame. Another 10 shims later I think this is sorted.


I had expected there would be no carpet tracks nearby or any people that were running 1/12ths (in NorCal) so I was trying to optimize grip for the asphalt out front my house. I installed the thinner .060 t-bar in the hope of gaining some compliance/grip. Replaced the stock .020 front springs with the softer .018(all I could find lhs). Eyeballed some negative camber and some toe out in the hopes of having some fun in the street. The setup worked pretty well I guess.

Come to find out there is a nice track about 30 minutes from me where some 1/12 scale gurus hang out.
Big video stream, 8:35 minutes
http://ammdesigns.podcastpeople.com/posts/19876

Went back today to try and figure the setup/track . . . For whatever reason the car was *still* pretty much undriveable. Most of it was *me* trying to learn this setup but the car was very inconsistent. I didn't know what was going on. Plenty of front end grip but no rear, oversteering everywhere. I put the camber back to flat and took out most of the toe out. It was better but the car would pull right when I punched it. Diff/tweak problems no doubt. I can't understand the Assc manual, the diff assy pics look wrong to me. Whatever . . .

The other thing I noticed was with the thin t-bar, the stock pod shock spring (green) was jacking the whole pod back making for a funny pod/chassis orientation. I haven't been able to find the soft shock spring locally so I said f this, I paid my money, I really want to get this thing up to speed. NOW.

I built the car a couple of weeks ago when I got the flu. I scoured the local shops for old Assc. stuff. Slim pickings. Being sort of a suspension specialist by trade I was looking for soft springs, front and rear. In my haste I picked up a couple of sets of 1/10 scale front .018s. Damn, they don't fit my front end. Oh well, good to have I guess . . .

So I'm at the track today, totally pissed with the oversteer/handling in general and this *stupid leaking excuse for a damper* which has a spring with too much rate/free length for my setup.

Coil over . . . pshaw. Then it hit me, *coil under*. So I took off the lower perch and spring, took the top perch (hat) off the shaft and put one of the 1/10th scale front .018 springs on the shaft and put the hat back on.


Went out on the next session and my old NiCds dumped badly. I went to the parts counter to buy the nice saddle pack they offered and some Jack the Gripper. *I really try to support my local guys. Don't really care what the price is. It is my duty to buy things from them whenever I can.* Tried to charge my old pack again but it was "fully charged" in 2 minutes. RIP. Wired up the new cells and hooked them up to the charger. 4A charge and they were done in 45 minutes? I think I need a new charger?

Now I had punch and extra weight from the new NiMH. It was a totally new car. I asked a couple of people to drive it. Both said it was easy to drive (4WD TC guys). Both said, "take some steering out, add some drag brake and put some sauce on the tires".

Dumped some steering, added some more brake and some tire sauce.

Totally transformed. I was now elevated from moving chicane to running with the bottom three TC's.

It's a crazy setup right now. I've got what looks to be about 5mm negative rake. Probably takes some caster out but I dunno . . . Looks f'ed to me but it drives well . . .


What say you RCTech?

Thanks Again . . .

Jeff