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Old 12-31-2007 | 05:00 PM
  #301  
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Originally Posted by Lycan
Strangely enough, 10k in the rear of the car works really well. Its almost like the rear off the car pushes the front along under power.

I remember Xray drivers did the same thing on the early XB8 buggies. They found the rear end a little snappy and ran harder diff oil in the rear to combat it.

TMizzle did the same thing to his M1B when they first came out.

Re: Rear swaybar... didnt like how the car handled without it.
Ok. Thanks for that. Did the higher WT oil in the rear diff' work on certain tracks? Or is it a general thing to run the thicker oil on most all tracks?

Good info' again though. Thanks Lycan and TMizzle !

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Old 12-31-2007 | 07:59 PM
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I'm using it as my base setup for all tracks. But it really depends on how much grip your track has to offer. You'll probably find a track with a lot of grip and 10k in the rear will result in too much of an on-power push. Dropping to 7k might do the trick.

I guess you could treat it as a general rule of thumb - If you find the M1 is snapping or hanging the tail out under acceleration and you've tried everything you can think of too fix it, run 10k in the rear diff
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Old 01-07-2008 | 11:23 PM
  #303  
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Here is my new paint job and the car is ready for the start of the season this sunday (obviously I will put a fuel tank in before then!)
Attached Thumbnails team magic m1b-m1_new_paint.jpg  
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Old 01-09-2008 | 05:43 AM
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Im in the US and currently looking at getting the m1b turbo. Problem Im having is finding somewhere I can buy one.....

Ive checked amain,rcshopping and raceday hobbies and unless I missed it no one is selling it. My local hobbyshop doesnt think they can get it, they are signed through horizon hobby so I dont know if horizon hobby does anything with team magic.

Anyone willing to give me a link where to buy the buggy and spare parts?

Also to those that have a m1b what spare parts would be a good idea to carry on hand since part support at hobby shops is probably little to none.

Thanks.
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Old 01-09-2008 | 06:18 AM
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Hello blowpopracer,

I know the feeling. There are a couple of places you can get TM stuff from. Only one of which I can remember just off the top of my head

Must be my age .... lol.
I'm also looking at getting one as I am looking at trying my hand at offroad this year???!

The site I can remember is,

www.wolfhobbies.com

Now you can go this toute, or if you can persuade your local LHS to contact Team Magic direct they will supply your LHS direct, at very good prices too(!!) and that will solve all the probs in your area!

The address you want is on the site.
www.teammagic.com.tw
I'm pretty sure it's [email protected] but i'm not sure so I would check first.
I hope this all helps. I used to work for Team Magic America who was the distributor until receantly so I know a little about all the stuff..... lol.
No U.S distributor at the moment, that I know of, so TM are willing to ship direct to customer and to LHS around the U.S at the moment.

Regards,

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Old 01-09-2008 | 09:41 AM
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Thanks for the info. Now I just need to save my cash to buy it.


What type of spare parts would you recommend I have since parts supply from the hobby shop will be little to no help?

Also I see your from davenport(british menace) Im from cedar rapids and race at evansdale. We should get together and race sometime. You could gladly hitch a ride with me if you can get to cedar rapids.
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Old 01-09-2008 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by blowpopracer
Thanks for the info. Now I just need to save my cash to buy it.


What type of spare parts would you recommend I have since parts supply from the hobby shop will be little to no help?

Also I see your from davenport(british menace) Im from cedar rapids and race at evansdale. We should get together and race sometime. You could gladly hitch a ride with me if you can get to cedar rapids.

Sounds like a cool idea.
Will talk soon. I'm at work right now. Drop me a line when you get a chance and when you want to race.

Names Tony
Let me know when your going to get you car and parts ;-)
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Old 01-10-2008 | 06:56 PM
  #308  
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Originally Posted by Z00M
Here is my new paint job and the car is ready for the start of the season this sunday (obviously I will put a fuel tank in before then!)
Top job mate, shame they dont stay like that for long ,take your snaps befor u race is best ! I usually dont remember.I m racing Sunday too, so tell how u get on after
L8R mc
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Old 01-10-2008 | 11:49 PM
  #309  
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Originally Posted by Lycan
I'm using it as my base setup for all tracks. But it really depends on how much grip your track has to offer. You'll probably find a track with a lot of grip and 10k in the rear will result in too much of an on-power push. Dropping to 7k might do the trick.

I guess you could treat it as a general rule of thumb - If you find the M1 is snapping or hanging the tail out under acceleration and you've tried everything you can think of too fix it, run 10k in the rear diff
well andrew,

your new turbo certainly handles better than the M1B did looked really good at the nats.

and it's finishing more races too

cu on the 20th

Adrian
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Old 01-12-2008 | 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mcleTi
Top job mate, shame they dont stay like that for long ,take your snaps befor u race is best ! I usually dont remember.I m racing Sunday too, so tell how u get on after
L8R mc
I was pretty happy with the car today. Much better than it has been. I ran 7K oil in the front and center diffs and 10K oil in the rear. I also made some mods to the rear top links along the lines of the others here except I used some carbo fibre to mount the inner top links instead of drilling the shock tower.

I managed to get my quickest lap down to a 38.5 from a 39.1. My consistency in driving on an offroad track isn't quite there yet but I was hanging around the bottom of the top 10 after each round so not too bad but not great.

The car was much easier to drive with the rear links and the 10K rear diff (thanks to TMizzle).

The front diff had a problem after 5 rounds where it is not acting like a diff very much. I'll need to check into it before the state titles in two weeks time.

Anyhow, that's my report from today. I'll post some pics this week of my version of the rear end mods for all to see.
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Old 01-12-2008 | 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Z00M
I was pretty happy with the car today. Much better than it has been. I ran 7K oil in the front and center diffs and 10K oil in the rear. I also made some mods to the rear top links along the lines of the others here except I used some carbo fibre to mount the inner top links instead of drilling the shock tower.

I managed to get my quickest lap down to a 38.5 from a 39.1. My consistency in driving on an offroad track isn't quite there yet but I was hanging around the bottom of the top 10 after each round so not too bad but not great.

The car was much easier to drive with the rear links and the 10K rear diff (thanks to TMizzle).

The front diff had a problem after 5 rounds where it is not acting like a diff very much. I'll need to check into it before the state titles in two weeks time.

Anyhow, that's my report from today. I'll post some pics this week of my version of the rear end mods for all to see.
if you need anything in a hurry Mike, i wont be racing the buggy for a nother month or so . i have 2 new clutch shoes, springs, front upper and lower arms, wing mount and a wing. if you cant get bits in time feel free to use my front diff. wont be needing it for a while good luck for the states.
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Old 01-13-2008 | 03:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Pattojnr
if you need anything in a hurry Mike, i wont be racing the buggy for a nother month or so . i have 2 new clutch shoes, springs, front upper and lower arms, wing mount and a wing. if you cant get bits in time feel free to use my front diff. wont be needing it for a while good luck for the states.
Thanks for that, I'll be in touch if I'm stuck. Very generous.
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Old 01-13-2008 | 03:45 AM
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No Probs. i should have had lower rear arms too, but one of those lapses again, forgot to order them. signs of old age i guess.
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Old 01-13-2008 | 07:15 AM
  #314  
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Originally Posted by Lycan
I'm using it as my base setup for all tracks. But it really depends on how much grip your track has to offer. You'll probably find a track with a lot of grip and 10k in the rear will result in too much of an on-power push. Dropping to 7k might do the trick.

I guess you could treat it as a general rule of thumb - If you find the M1 is snapping or hanging the tail out under acceleration and you've tried everything you can think of too fix it, run 10k in the rear diff
Could you let me know the mods that are working on the rear of the TURBO. I've heard that some modification to the top link position helps with the rear end grip?
Thanks again for the heads up on the diff' oil.
Any other mods I should consider doing?

Do you think it better to get after market shocks or are the stock TM ones working good?

Thanks for your help Lycon. This offroad stuff is new to me but want to get into it......... :-)

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Old 01-13-2008 | 01:38 PM
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BM: Do you mean the camber link modification or the placement of the camber link on the shock tower? To be honest, I've only tried one hole. My intention was to run the camber link as flat as possible when my normal ride height was set. I guess you could move the inside of the camber link up or down for role center adjustments. This is of course, for another day

Re shocks: It really depends on the track you race on. If its smooth and remains smooth (e.g. no ruts or holes) then you'll find the standard shocks should work OK. If however, your track is rough and cuts up real bad then the new K-Factory shocks are a must. The extra 20+mm of travel helps with the bumps nicely. The other advantage is "normal" size springs now fit the car so you have a much larger selection of after-market springs to choose from. e.g. Hong-Nor and Xray

Z00M: The camber link mod is actually the work of Ari Bakla.
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