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Old 11-11-2007 | 04:24 PM
  #27391  
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Originally Posted by odpurple
I've never attempted that modification before, although it sounds easy enough to do. Drill a hole in the back of the steering block big enough to clear the e clip or nut to a measured depth so the axle sticks out of the other side farther.

There's another, and I think better, way to get a wider front track. This works for any style of front end:
For the wheels that use unflanged bearings (like Jaco wraps), take a 5/16" propeller reamer and cut down the outer edge of the flange in the bore of the wheel that stops/locates the bearing. The amount you cut off will determine how much you will widen the front track, then put the same amount of spacers behind the wheel.
For wheels that use flanged bearings (like Parma) use a 3/8" prop reamer and make a counter sink where the flange rests on the outside of the wheel. Then space the wheel out as mentioned above.
In either case, if you move the outer bearing in by, say, 1mm; the track will be 2mm wider
I knew I could count on you guys! Thanks. I have enough steering blocks I might try counterboring it. If it works I'd rather do the adjustment once on the block rather than every time on the wheels . . .we'll see. : )
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Old 11-11-2007 | 07:38 PM
  #27392  
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Thanks Nick, for the information. I will give them a call.
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Old 11-11-2007 | 08:26 PM
  #27393  
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You can also put Losi or Associated plastic .030 spacers behind the flange on Lundsford axles, since they thread in. You won't get the nyloc nut on the back side of the steering block, but a thin regular nut may fit depending on the amount of spacers you use.
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Old 11-11-2007 | 08:32 PM
  #27394  
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Originally Posted by senna555
Carl,

Go with the Orion or Peak motors...come with sintered rotors and go with an lrp speedo if you can. That seems to be the hot combo at rcmadness.

Jamie
Thnaks Jamie,

I just ordered a few Orion 10.5 motors and already have an LRP brushless speedo in my Rev 4.5. (see photo in post 27346 on th eprevious page)

Question. I currrently have the original LRP competition sphere SC and just ordered a '07 version. What the difference besides the number of programs...or is that all?

Also, haw are you guys rolling out the Orion 10.5. Going to race at Donny and Sal's new track, 360 Sppedway...I beleive is larger than RCmadness.

Thanks for your help
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Old 11-12-2007 | 10:12 AM
  #27395  
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Originally Posted by robk
You can also put Losi or Associated plastic .030 spacers behind the flange on Lundsford axles, since they thread in. You won't get the nyloc nut on the back side of the steering block, but a thin regular nut may fit depending on the amount of spacers you use.
Which lunsford axles are used for this?
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Old 11-12-2007 | 10:48 AM
  #27396  
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Which lunsford axles are used for this?

http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...gory_Code=AXEL
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Old 11-12-2007 | 11:18 AM
  #27397  
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Hey guys. What bumper would you recommend for a CRC 3.2R?
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Old 11-12-2007 | 11:21 AM
  #27398  
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Hey harold, Try the parma one. It's available at 360 Racetrack!
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Old 11-12-2007 | 11:39 AM
  #27399  
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Originally Posted by Kwikvdub
Hey harold, Try the parma one. It's available at 360 Racetrack!

Thanks Alex. This 1/12 scale is kinda new to me. Now TC is another story..

Hey with the parma one. Is it a direct fit or do I have to cut it out?
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Old 11-12-2007 | 12:29 PM
  #27400  
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ok guys i just got a cefx evo2 and i dont know how to set my ride height it needs to 4.0 mm all around right now the front is at 4.5 and the rear is at like 6.5mm
P.S where do u check the rear ride height under the pod bottom oplate on on the chassie thanks
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Old 11-12-2007 | 12:43 PM
  #27401  
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For the front, use spacers under the front suspension. CRC has a kit with 3 different size shims.

For the Rear, I use IRS ride height adjusters.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...SM&C=CMZ&V=IRR

As far a measuring, I do the front at the very front of the chassis, the rear I do at the lower pod plate between the sidepods. You also want to check the ride height at the rear of the main chassis plate, this height you adjust with the center spring.
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Old 11-12-2007 | 02:50 PM
  #27402  
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Hi, i was wondering about buying a Team Ass. L4, is it a good choice?
And, what spare parts should i have in my box? i am new to .12, so i will break some in the beginning i guess

I am going to have LRP 5.5 BL in it.
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Old 11-12-2007 | 03:21 PM
  #27403  
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Originally Posted by Finken
Hi, i was wondering about buying a Team Ass. L4, is it a good choice?
And, what spare parts should i have in my box? i am new to .12, so i will break some in the beginning i guess

I am going to have LRP 5.5 BL in it.
The 12L4 is a very capable car for asphalt, it will work for carpet but a link car is generaly perfered. I'd recomend starting with a 10.5 instead of that 5.5 unless your a very skilled wheel, 1/12 mod is wicked but fun if you can handle it.
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Old 11-12-2007 | 04:49 PM
  #27404  
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Originally Posted by Finken
Hi, i was wondering about buying a Team Ass. L4, is it a good choice?
And, what spare parts should i have in my box? i am new to .12, so i will break some in the beginning i guess

I am going to have LRP 5.5 BL in it.
dont run a 5.5 dude run a 10.5 for starters

and i would say get the gen-x if you can,its a much better car and youll be happier with it
and crc is making improvements to the car all the time to make your 1/12 driving more fun.
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Old 11-12-2007 | 05:02 PM
  #27405  
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Originally Posted by Finken
Hi, i was wondering about buying a Team Ass. L4, is it a good choice?
And, what spare parts should i have in my box? i am new to .12, so i will break some in the beginning i guess

I am going to have LRP 5.5 BL in it.
Dude, once I use Novak 3.5R in my L4, and I quit using it after 10 minutes trying to drive it. It's bloody too fast, even at half throttle.
Now, I'm using 7.5R, but I haven't test it yet...... got no time. I predict is still too fast.

10.5 I think is reasonable for 1st timer, like walley said.
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