badassrevo

iTrader: (12)

you can use your two 2s 6000 packs you already have just wire a jumper to hook them to the speedo in series. I ran my two 2s 6000 packs for a few months before I got my current set up.

Jan Larsen

iTrader: (2)

I second all the above questions!

happywing

iTrader: (93)

There are three of us around here that race the Neu motors in our buggies. First off, ya, they are the Cat's Pajamas...the Bees Knees...and so on.
Two of the guys run the 1512 1.5D/F (3200kv, I think). I run the 1512 2D/F, which is a 2600kv motor. Some think the kv rating of these motors is a little high. We like them because we can run small pinions (11T, 12T on 4s), which we think greatly reduces hesitation (or cogging). Mine has almost zero hesitation from a stop and I don't think the other guys have that problem either. I drove the 8ight (lxmuff's) with the 1.5D and found it to be a little much. I like to have more trigger range and be able to go full throttle on sections of the track. To me, if it's faster than that, it's too fast. I think the 2D is perfect for racing. It's just a little more tame than the 1.5D. Still, I have no problems keeping up with (and passing) the nitros. I don't think you could go wrong with either of these motors. I am considered more of a methodical driver (I've been told). I try to be in control 100% of the time. My counterparts are a little more on the fringe . They prefer more speed. That's my very humble opinion.

markhat250

iTrader: (65)

"Two of the guys run the 1512 1.5D/F (3200kv, I think). I run the 1512 2D/F, which is a 2600kv motor. Some think the kv rating of these motors is a little high. We like them because we can run small pinions (11T, 12T on 4s), which we think greatly reduces hesitation (or cogging). Mine has almost zero hesitation from a stop and I don't think the other guys have that problem either"

So you have the same size motor here (Nue 1512) with two different kv ratings? Is it safe to say that kv translates to "punch" or "hit"? I run an electric but I'm a little clueless with the techy stuff.

So the lower the number (1.5D/F) is actually higher kv? And a 2.0D/F is lower kv with less hit. Do I have that right?

As far as your calmer driving style goes, I think I am trying to get some of that in me. Us nitro guys love to pin it. Electric world is so much more calculating.

shady3031

iTrader: (26)

Please keep us updated about the new batts. My neu 1515 1y will be here Monday for my truggy, then i will be looking a new batts. Currently i am running 2 4s 4000 maxamps packs, thinking of getting 2 6000 4s packs--since we have had some 30 minute main here lately. What battery layout is everyone here with a truggy running--one pack on each side or one huge pack on one side. The truggy is a HB LSP Pro-R it definately had everyones attention this weekend even though the feiago bearing come apart on the front.

Thanks
jason

markhat250

iTrader: (65)

Two 4s 6000's!! Wow. That's $440 right there.

plamski

iTrader: (5)

Hello.
I bought LOSI 8ight, EL8, Mamba Max and 2X6000 LiPo Maxamps. The EL8 come with 46T spur. I placed order for NEU 1512/2.5d/f
I don’t know which pinion to buy 13T, 14T, 15 etc .Our local track is 20-30 yards long with 5-6
U-turns.
Thanks.

IR13

id say 12 or 13 i have a 15 and need to go down to atleast a 13

happywing

iTrader: (93)

Yes, same sized motor, two different ratings.
I see a lot of setups with lower kv rated motors. They need larger pinions or more voltage in order to get to a desirable speed. Guys that run the lower KV motors cite lower temperatures as their reason for running such motors.
You could say that the 2D/F has "less hit" than the 1.5D/F, but that would be if both setups are identical (same batts, same pinion). Add voltage or a bigger pinion to the 2D/F setup and it becomes the "faster" setup. It's confusing, but both motors have the potential to generate the same amount of power.
If someone wants to back me up on this (or correct me), please do. I think I have it right.

markhat250

iTrader: (65)

Made sense to me, but I'm not an expert.

So is everyone here thinking the 1512 2d/F or the 2y/F, or the 1.5y/F or the 2.5d/F or the.....Holy crap my head is spinning guys. Just tell me what to buy for a smaller tight track, and an occasional bigger one.

RED-LINE M03

iTrader: (127)

FYI

It looks like Tekin is working on a 8th scale speedo......

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...61#post3630061

samayoa

I have been following this thread for a little while now and have talked to
Dan from RC product designs about the kits.

My question is about batteries and charging. What is the best, cost no option charger that will charge the Lipo's in 4s configuration? I know that competition electronics only will do up to 3s from talking to them, so I'm looking at the team checkpoint pro charger.

Also, how long do batteries take to charge for say a 6000 to 8000 Lipo 4s 14.8v.

I guess you can get around 30 min from them, maybe more, but how do you guys do for racing. I you run down the batt's, and have to charge for 2 hours, then I don't see the benefit, unless you have a few batts (over $1000 just in batts) and a few chargers, or you charge at home before weekend.
Asside from the costs and tunning issues with nitros, the appeal to me and why I switched was running time. If I want to bash around I can just keep adding fuel and run all day.

Anyway, I'm not bashing you guys, just want to get some more info so I can make the jump. I have an old MBX4rr that I have only used only like 5 times since I bought it 7 years ago, and everything on it was new and top of the line, so does anyone know where to buy parts for it. I guess they don't make parts for it anymore, and don't know where to buy some.

Thanks for the input and hope to see you guys out there sooner than later.

Javier.

Stealth_RT

iTrader: (5)

I'm happy with my ICE charger and Asto Blinky balancer. Does about any battery type, NiMh, Lipo's, etc. Just about any Lipo battery should take an hour or less to fully charge. Most times, you stick the battery back on the charger right after your race. No need to discharge first. In fact, discharging too far will destroy a Lipo. If you are going to run a 8000 mAh battery, make sure your charger will charge at 8 amps.

shady3031

iTrader: (26)

I just got the hyperion 1210 and it is a little complicated but it does anything and everything. You can monitor the voltage on each individual cell if you use the lba balancers. It will charge both of my 4s 4000 packs and balance all 8 cells together in about 1 hr from completely discharged. It also supports the 2c charge feature. It will charge up to 12 s lipo and 30 cell nimh. bishop power products has the charger along with the balancers in stock and as of now there is no shipping charge. Just for giggles i charged a 2 cell 2100 mah lipo i have for my 18t at 4.0 amps, the battery never got warm (28 C) and it charged in about 35 minutes. You can also set your charge percentage from 50-100--because as you know a lipo charged fast until it reaches close to peak and then the current drops off. The maxamps packs come with hyperion taps installed or you can buy adapters to fit TP or FP packs.

I have been very impressed with this charger although i have only had it 2 weeks.

Kings Kid

iTrader: (35)

I would caution you about charging a lipo over 1.5c. Steals alot of life from them. I used to do this with my scorpion system and wished I hadn't