Tamiya mini cooper
#4231
Tech Elite
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
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quick question. My cooper slows down dramatically when i turn, it seems like it binds on something, but only when it's on the ground. When i let off the steering coming out of a turn, it's takes off like a rocket. Any way to fix that, has someone else had this problem? Thanks.
-Shaun
-Shaun
And Jino, why would you need to know the ampdraw of the Sport tuned? I have no idea what it is but also have never needed to know either....
#4232
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like when i go into a turn, i've taken it a full throttle during practice, and it just binds up, then in mid turn i can let go of the wheel and it screams to top speed.
#4234
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Hey guys, I'm running a M04 in a sea of M03s and I need some assistance with some handling issues I've working to straighten out. Most the people I'm racing against don't even recognize my car as a Tamiya vehicle. I having a problem with power delivery, in tight corners the rear of the vehicle wants to come around and if I try to counter steer it just gets worse most of the time. The vehicle is fully modded with all TCS legal parts.
Need some suggestions for suspension setup, I've lowered it narrowed the front track & widened the rear track as much as possible, short blue springs in the front & red springs in the rear. 40wt in front and 30wt in the rear. 60D slicks all the way around with firm inserts & installed a TA03 diff.
We run 10 min heats and the M04 does get better after the tires warm up but it is extreme twitchy. Any suggestions would be great!
Now I know the M04 is not nearly as popular as the M03 series but I feel that it can be competitive. IT WOULD TOO EASY TO JUST GET A M03, don't want to have resort to that action!
Thanks in advance
Need some suggestions for suspension setup, I've lowered it narrowed the front track & widened the rear track as much as possible, short blue springs in the front & red springs in the rear. 40wt in front and 30wt in the rear. 60D slicks all the way around with firm inserts & installed a TA03 diff.
We run 10 min heats and the M04 does get better after the tires warm up but it is extreme twitchy. Any suggestions would be great!
Now I know the M04 is not nearly as popular as the M03 series but I feel that it can be competitive. IT WOULD TOO EASY TO JUST GET A M03, don't want to have resort to that action!
Thanks in advance
#4235
Tech Elite
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
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I'm no M04 expert, but my own experiences with our custom M03 RWD have taught me a lot about RWD Minis.
Tyres are CRITICAL... I got our car to work by putting super-softs on the rear (Pit 20) and super hard on the front (RP36). And I think that's a large part of your problem having the same tyres all round.
Off the top of my head I'd stick with the 60D's in the rear, but move to a really soft insert and go to a much harder tyre in front. A normal Tamiya slick (53215) or Super Slick (53222) would help a lot I think.
Your suspension set-up sounds about right. I think tyres will be the solution.
Tyres are CRITICAL... I got our car to work by putting super-softs on the rear (Pit 20) and super hard on the front (RP36). And I think that's a large part of your problem having the same tyres all round.
Off the top of my head I'd stick with the 60D's in the rear, but move to a really soft insert and go to a much harder tyre in front. A normal Tamiya slick (53215) or Super Slick (53222) would help a lot I think.
Your suspension set-up sounds about right. I think tyres will be the solution.
#4237
I'm no M04 expert, but my own experiences with our custom M03 RWD have taught me a lot about RWD Minis.
Tyres are CRITICAL... I got our car to work by putting super-softs on the rear (Pit 20) and super hard on the front (RP36). And I think that's a large part of your problem having the same tyres all round.
Off the top of my head I'd stick with the 60D's in the rear, but move to a really soft insert and go to a much harder tyre in front. A normal Tamiya slick (53215) or Super Slick (53222) would help a lot I think.
Your suspension set-up sounds about right. I think tyres will be the solution.
Tyres are CRITICAL... I got our car to work by putting super-softs on the rear (Pit 20) and super hard on the front (RP36). And I think that's a large part of your problem having the same tyres all round.
Off the top of my head I'd stick with the 60D's in the rear, but move to a really soft insert and go to a much harder tyre in front. A normal Tamiya slick (53215) or Super Slick (53222) would help a lot I think.
Your suspension set-up sounds about right. I think tyres will be the solution.
and 10 minutes might be too long to have a consistant rear drive.
#4239
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
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M03's stay pretty much the same handling wise no matter how long the heat goes for. RWD cars tend to overheat the rears and then the grip goes away...
Dont go worrying about droop and such right now, its not important. Do the tyre change first and then work from there. Ride height? As low as you can get it.... Say 2-3mm rear, a hint higher at the front.
Dont go worrying about droop and such right now, its not important. Do the tyre change first and then work from there. Ride height? As low as you can get it.... Say 2-3mm rear, a hint higher at the front.
#4241
M03's stay pretty much the same handling wise no matter how long the heat goes for. RWD cars tend to overheat the rears and then the grip goes away...
Dont go worrying about droop and such right now, its not important. Do the tyre change first and then work from there. Ride height? As low as you can get it.... Say 2-3mm rear, a hint higher at the front.
Dont go worrying about droop and such right now, its not important. Do the tyre change first and then work from there. Ride height? As low as you can get it.... Say 2-3mm rear, a hint higher at the front.
The best decision I made that lead to me winning the TCS North American championship was new tires each main. I noticed that the second run on the rear tires the car liked to oversteer, as well as breaking was inconsistant. but new rears and old fronts the car was a dump truck.
the car is very finiky and in 10 minutes it will change. So yes
#4242
Tech Elite
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Happy to concede that point to you....you have the points on the board in that respect..My RWD knowledge is a mish mash of M04 and M03 RWD.
I just didnt want him changing too much stuff at once and getting confused.
I just didnt want him changing too much stuff at once and getting confused.
#4243
#4244
#4245
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
The track is a prepared asphalt surface. The track is used for the 8th and 10th scale nitro, cut in half for 10th scale elecrtric touring & mini.
Now do I want more rollout for the front tires or do I want to keep the side walls as short as possible on the front tires and use stiffer inserts.
Now on a side note I purchased a M03r at the beginning of the season but I haven't assembled it yet, I'd really like to get M04 sorted out because I like the idea of the RWD. What exactly changes on the M04 during a 10min. heat?
How I can I counter it's finiky behavoir?
Now do I want more rollout for the front tires or do I want to keep the side walls as short as possible on the front tires and use stiffer inserts.
Now on a side note I purchased a M03r at the beginning of the season but I haven't assembled it yet, I'd really like to get M04 sorted out because I like the idea of the RWD. What exactly changes on the M04 during a 10min. heat?
How I can I counter it's finiky behavoir?