Kyosho Touring Car
#1111
guys,
If anyone is having there front camber links rubbing against the tires. You can use the 4 degree castor blocks from the 4 wheel off road buggy and the problem will go away... huge difference in location...
If anyone is having there front camber links rubbing against the tires. You can use the 4 degree castor blocks from the 4 wheel off road buggy and the problem will go away... huge difference in location...
#1112
Tech Elite
iTrader: (74)
car
well I'm back from K.C. won the A-1 hit a laper in A-2 took me out came back in A-3 and won almost put a lap on the field few 10th's off got hung up by laper's the car is killer on med to high bite will post the setup soon for stock rubber...the car so I got 1 more and am going to run stock and 13.5 brushed and brushless at the novak
#1113
Hey Swift, could you post your setup from the eXpress Race? -Ky
#1119
TFW101 is just that, a centre one-way. Gives more tuning options. Use it with a front diff to get a milder, more forgiving one-way system.
TF114 is a spare part, plastic bulkhead caps and spur holder. The optional parts start with TFW.
TF114 is a spare part, plastic bulkhead caps and spur holder. The optional parts start with TFW.
#1120
Tech Elite
iTrader: (74)
car
hello all I was wondering a few things ok roll-center
in low bite do u want to run low roll-center ?
med to high bite higher roll-center ?
my track is allways low bite so I have a hard time on the road where the bite is high what I did find is I raised the roll-center by 1mm and the car was hooked up I won 2 out of the 3 a mains ... OK low bite -vers droop I found that more uptravle or less droop vers more droop works better say the rear is set at 5.5mm with 1mm of up travel to 6.6mm the cas was still loose off power but when I went to 5.5mm with 3mm up travle to 8.5mm the cas was better
so if your car is loose off power droop is not the 1st thing to try in my book because as the droop screws hit the chassis u loose traction that tells me its not in the droop otherwise it would of worked . Now if I want to transfer less weight forward do I want to try stiffer Ft springs ? ..Next rear toe I went from 2 to 3 mm still a bit of off power loose and it didn't want to rotate as fast due to the extra on power forward bite...what is the best way to slow the cars reaction down ,Oil and lower roll-center? I'm running TF-5 stallion stock 13.5 brushless rubber any input will help ..
in low bite do u want to run low roll-center ?
med to high bite higher roll-center ?
my track is allways low bite so I have a hard time on the road where the bite is high what I did find is I raised the roll-center by 1mm and the car was hooked up I won 2 out of the 3 a mains ... OK low bite -vers droop I found that more uptravle or less droop vers more droop works better say the rear is set at 5.5mm with 1mm of up travel to 6.6mm the cas was still loose off power but when I went to 5.5mm with 3mm up travle to 8.5mm the cas was better
so if your car is loose off power droop is not the 1st thing to try in my book because as the droop screws hit the chassis u loose traction that tells me its not in the droop otherwise it would of worked . Now if I want to transfer less weight forward do I want to try stiffer Ft springs ? ..Next rear toe I went from 2 to 3 mm still a bit of off power loose and it didn't want to rotate as fast due to the extra on power forward bite...what is the best way to slow the cars reaction down ,Oil and lower roll-center? I'm running TF-5 stallion stock 13.5 brushless rubber any input will help ..
#1122
Sorry for the delay. Been very busy this week. Ok, my setup from this weekend's Express North/South Shoout-out is as follows:
Front - Shocks: 30 pound Corally springs with 60 wt AE oil. Middle hole on tower and inner hole on the arm. Hingepin blocks flat against the chassis. A blocks and 0* of toe. Camber links mounted in the inner, no shims under the ball. 1.5 degrees of camber. Stock ackerman positions. 1.5 droop.
Rear - Shocks : 22 pound Corally springs with 40 wt AE oil. Middle hole on the tower and inner hole on the arm. Front Hingepin mount flat on chassis and .5 mm shim under the rear mount. D blocks up front and F blocks in the back to give 1 degree of toe-in. Camber links made as short as possible, inner hole on the hub and inner hole on the inner mount w/ 1 mm shim under the ball stud. 1.5 droop.
CO27 - rolling out at 28. Parma Indigo/Magenta - 55.5
Very high bite carpet.
Swifty
Front - Shocks: 30 pound Corally springs with 60 wt AE oil. Middle hole on tower and inner hole on the arm. Hingepin blocks flat against the chassis. A blocks and 0* of toe. Camber links mounted in the inner, no shims under the ball. 1.5 degrees of camber. Stock ackerman positions. 1.5 droop.
Rear - Shocks : 22 pound Corally springs with 40 wt AE oil. Middle hole on the tower and inner hole on the arm. Front Hingepin mount flat on chassis and .5 mm shim under the rear mount. D blocks up front and F blocks in the back to give 1 degree of toe-in. Camber links made as short as possible, inner hole on the hub and inner hole on the inner mount w/ 1 mm shim under the ball stud. 1.5 droop.
CO27 - rolling out at 28. Parma Indigo/Magenta - 55.5
Very high bite carpet.
Swifty
#1124
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Sorry for the questions, I am just now finishing the build on the car and getting ready for the track on sunday.
With the electronics I am having trouble plaing the RX and ESC. I am using the spectrum micro rx and a GTX and would like ideas, suggestions and or pictures on where to mount them. Hardest thing so far is the Cap for the GTX.
Also, I am using the setup for Rubber Tire Asphault that was listed a few pages back, Ron Atomics.
On his setup for the sway bars the front is listed at 7mm and the rear at 4.5mm. I have never installed or used sway bars before, newb I know. How exactly do you get those numbers.
Also his shocks are listed as 3 - 1.1 pistons, are those standard? And the Springs are listed as red. What lb are those?
And lastly from the post above about the oneway. The clicking noise am I doing something wrong?
Once again I am sorry for the questions just trying to get the setup right.
Thanks
With the electronics I am having trouble plaing the RX and ESC. I am using the spectrum micro rx and a GTX and would like ideas, suggestions and or pictures on where to mount them. Hardest thing so far is the Cap for the GTX.
Also, I am using the setup for Rubber Tire Asphault that was listed a few pages back, Ron Atomics.
On his setup for the sway bars the front is listed at 7mm and the rear at 4.5mm. I have never installed or used sway bars before, newb I know. How exactly do you get those numbers.
Also his shocks are listed as 3 - 1.1 pistons, are those standard? And the Springs are listed as red. What lb are those?
And lastly from the post above about the oneway. The clicking noise am I doing something wrong?
Once again I am sorry for the questions just trying to get the setup right.
Thanks