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Old 09-28-2006 | 10:24 PM
  #20851  
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Originally Posted by smojoe
can someone tell me what 4-40 socket cap screws to use for the three-bolt wheels? I am guessing 1/4" but don't want to be wrong
Actually,
Jaco wheels take the shortest screws, 1/4". CRC high rollers take a little longer, like 5/16. Parmas take 5/16 also, as they are exactly the same thickness as the CRC where the screws go through. BSR take the longest, 1/2". The hot set up for me is Parma wheels with Trinity wheel washers and 3/8" screws.

Last edited by odpurple; 09-29-2006 at 12:05 AM.
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Old 09-28-2006 | 10:39 PM
  #20852  
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Can anyone please verify and or share if the AH12 conv kit will work for CRC T-Fource? What about the CRC Carpet Knife 3.2R? Thinking of possibly converting to AH12 but not sure if it will work. Has anyone actually tried this?
The parts you use from the T Fource or 3.2 are the front suspension, motor plates, rear axle and shock (and screws, etc.) so either car will work for the conversion.
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Old 09-28-2006 | 10:43 PM
  #20853  
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hey od i know your a busy man would like to see the front end pics on the delta you posted many ages ago thanks
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Old 09-28-2006 | 10:47 PM
  #20854  
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Originally Posted by bugsee2
hey od i know your a busy man would like to see the front end pics on the delta you posted many ages ago thanks
Sorry I've been too busy to do that what with getting a new car ready for Vegas and all. I'll try to take some photos tommorrow and post them
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Old 09-28-2006 | 11:04 PM
  #20855  
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I just have to remember which way the thrust is installed.
(A lil' reminder please)
Thanks, Shaggy

Shaggy,
The small ridge on the delrin spacer goes against the 1/4x3/8" hub bearing, then pile the thrust bearing on, followed by a nut. You guys have 4? You will be passin' those off to the grand kids
bb
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Old 09-29-2006 | 02:52 AM
  #20856  
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Slapmaster is anyone stocking your stuff in the UK yet? I have your trust race But it dosen't belong to me!!!
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Old 09-29-2006 | 03:03 AM
  #20857  
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Brian, if you dont mind me asking, what is the magic part that makes the thrust bearing work. I have never seen one in person. Is it the same thrust bearing that is used in the Mugen Centax?
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Old 09-29-2006 | 04:54 AM
  #20858  
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YYHAYYIM:
Check out this thread for AH-12 conversions using a 3.2 Carpet Knife:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...&page=18&pp=30

There are photos of this conversion on post #515 on that page.
Used mostly CRC parts on my Powell "Slegde Hammer", had no problems with the conversion.
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Old 09-29-2006 | 06:42 AM
  #20859  
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Default ah twister esc

does anyone run the ah twister 2.1 esc? Is it a good choice for 12th?

Thanks
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Old 09-29-2006 | 09:04 AM
  #20860  
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I ran a twister 2.1 last season in 19t 1/12th scale and did not have any problems. The speed control has alot of punch.

Hope this helps.
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Old 09-29-2006 | 09:09 AM
  #20861  
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I do not have any distributors, yet. I do offer dealer pricing so that a shop could stock them. Everything that I send out is done with Global Priority which has been very effective and very reasonable. Customers contact me, I ship directly to the customer.

The "magic" is that you do not use the 1/4x3/8" hub bearing for thrust load any longer. The spacer picks up the outside of that hub bearing, provides some spring due to the plastic properties and it's then topped off with a thrust bearing. Yes, the thrust bearing did come from a gas car clutch. But it needs to be worked on a tiny bit. If they hold up in a gas car clutch, imagine how long it will be in your 12th scale diff.

Can a person make one of these? Sure. You need a lathe, delrin, some fancy Dremil bits and time. So many want instant gratification and will not want to go through the effort. Then there are a few that tinker just like I do trying to make things better. I sent a bunch of the raw materials to Japan. There should be a Japaneese version of my product available there.

bb
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Old 09-29-2006 | 09:10 AM
  #20862  
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Hey Guys,
One thing I have found with the Slapmaster Thrust is they seem to be more picky about having the nut on VERY straight. If you use a metal one - as Brian suggests in the instructions - this is not a problem. If you use a plastic one and it is just slightly crooked - as they often are - the diff will not feel near as smooth.
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Old 09-29-2006 | 09:30 AM
  #20863  
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i have a Associated 12L4 and durring the day the car is awsome but whe the sun goes down the car gets really loose to the level of when i turn the wheel just a little the car spins out. the car is basically stock but i did put the CRC lowerd pods on. my set up is the green spring on the center shock, white stuff on the dampiner plate, .63 T-plate, 10 deg. blocks in the front with th carbon fiber bace between them, the reactive caster set in the middle meaning a white shim on either side and .020 springs in the front i'm running 4mm ride hieght and Jaco double raps purbles in the front and double pinks in the rear the front is cut to 1.70 and rear at 1.80. what would be a good change to make to get the car not to spin out.
thanks
kyle
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Old 09-29-2006 | 09:35 AM
  #20864  
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Hi everyone i am just getting back into 1/12 and i am going 2 b geting a used rev 3

just wondering about anyones opinion of this car on carpet or setup advice

tire compund and which grease or fluid to use in the damping tubes

iv never had a car with them

thanks
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Old 09-29-2006 | 09:36 AM
  #20865  
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Originally Posted by kyle "hitawall"
i have a Associated 12L4 and durring the day the car is awsome but whe the sun goes down the car gets really loose to the level of when i turn the wheel just a little the car spins out. the car is basically stock but i did put the CRC lowerd pods on. my set up is the green spring on the center shock, white stuff on the dampiner plate, .63 T-plate, 10 deg. blocks in the front with th carbon fiber bace between them, the reactive caster set in the middle meaning a white shim on either side and .020 springs in the front i'm running 4mm ride hieght and Jaco double raps purbles in the front and double pinks in the rear the front is cut to 1.70 and rear at 1.80. what would be a good change to make to get the car not to spin out.
thanks
kyle
When the sun goes down, move your batteries forward position and nothing else. If they are already forward-then try pinks in the rear (no dbl wrap).
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