1/12 forum
Originally Posted by smojoe
can someone tell me what 4-40 socket cap screws to use for the three-bolt wheels? I am guessing 1/4" but don't want to be wrong 

Jaco wheels take the shortest screws, 1/4". CRC high rollers take a little longer, like 5/16. Parmas take 5/16 also, as they are exactly the same thickness as the CRC where the screws go through. BSR take the longest, 1/2". The hot set up for me is Parma wheels with Trinity wheel washers and 3/8" screws.
Last edited by odpurple; 09-29-2006 at 12:05 AM.
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Can anyone please verify and or share if the AH12 conv kit will work for CRC T-Fource? What about the CRC Carpet Knife 3.2R? Thinking of possibly converting to AH12 but not sure if it will work. Has anyone actually tried this?
Originally Posted by bugsee2
hey od i know your a busy man would like to see the front end pics on the delta you posted many ages ago thanks
I just have to remember which way the thrust is installed.
(A lil' reminder please)
Thanks, Shaggy
Shaggy,
The small ridge on the delrin spacer goes against the 1/4x3/8" hub bearing, then pile the thrust bearing on, followed by a nut. You guys have 4? You will be passin' those off to the grand kids
bb
(A lil' reminder please)
Thanks, Shaggy
Shaggy,
The small ridge on the delrin spacer goes against the 1/4x3/8" hub bearing, then pile the thrust bearing on, followed by a nut. You guys have 4? You will be passin' those off to the grand kids
bb
YYHAYYIM:
Check out this thread for AH-12 conversions using a 3.2 Carpet Knife:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...&page=18&pp=30
There are photos of this conversion on post #515 on that page.
Used mostly CRC parts on my Powell "Slegde Hammer", had no problems with the conversion.
Check out this thread for AH-12 conversions using a 3.2 Carpet Knife:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...&page=18&pp=30
There are photos of this conversion on post #515 on that page.
Used mostly CRC parts on my Powell "Slegde Hammer", had no problems with the conversion.
I do not have any distributors, yet. I do offer dealer pricing so that a shop could stock them. Everything that I send out is done with Global Priority which has been very effective and very reasonable. Customers contact me, I ship directly to the customer.
The "magic" is that you do not use the 1/4x3/8" hub bearing for thrust load any longer. The spacer picks up the outside of that hub bearing, provides some spring due to the plastic properties and it's then topped off with a thrust bearing. Yes, the thrust bearing did come from a gas car clutch. But it needs to be worked on a tiny bit. If they hold up in a gas car clutch, imagine how long it will be in your 12th scale diff.
Can a person make one of these? Sure. You need a lathe, delrin, some fancy Dremil bits and time. So many want instant gratification and will not want to go through the effort. Then there are a few that tinker just like I do trying to make things better. I sent a bunch of the raw materials to Japan. There should be a Japaneese version of my product available there.
bb
The "magic" is that you do not use the 1/4x3/8" hub bearing for thrust load any longer. The spacer picks up the outside of that hub bearing, provides some spring due to the plastic properties and it's then topped off with a thrust bearing. Yes, the thrust bearing did come from a gas car clutch. But it needs to be worked on a tiny bit. If they hold up in a gas car clutch, imagine how long it will be in your 12th scale diff.
Can a person make one of these? Sure. You need a lathe, delrin, some fancy Dremil bits and time. So many want instant gratification and will not want to go through the effort. Then there are a few that tinker just like I do trying to make things better. I sent a bunch of the raw materials to Japan. There should be a Japaneese version of my product available there.
bb
Hey Guys,
One thing I have found with the Slapmaster Thrust is they seem to be more picky about having the nut on VERY straight. If you use a metal one - as Brian suggests in the instructions - this is not a problem. If you use a plastic one and it is just slightly crooked - as they often are - the diff will not feel near as smooth.
One thing I have found with the Slapmaster Thrust is they seem to be more picky about having the nut on VERY straight. If you use a metal one - as Brian suggests in the instructions - this is not a problem. If you use a plastic one and it is just slightly crooked - as they often are - the diff will not feel near as smooth.
i have a Associated 12L4 and durring the day the car is awsome but whe the sun goes down the car gets really loose to the level of when i turn the wheel just a little the car spins out. the car is basically stock but i did put the CRC lowerd pods on. my set up is the green spring on the center shock, white stuff on the dampiner plate, .63 T-plate, 10 deg. blocks in the front with th carbon fiber bace between them, the reactive caster set in the middle meaning a white shim on either side and .020 springs in the front i'm running 4mm ride hieght and Jaco double raps purbles in the front and double pinks in the rear the front is cut to 1.70 and rear at 1.80. what would be a good change to make to get the car not to spin out.
thanks
kyle
thanks
kyle
Hi everyone i am just getting back into 1/12 and i am going 2 b geting a used rev 3
just wondering about anyones opinion of this car on carpet or setup advice
tire compund and which grease or fluid to use in the damping tubes
iv never had a car with them
thanks
just wondering about anyones opinion of this car on carpet or setup advice
tire compund and which grease or fluid to use in the damping tubes
iv never had a car with them
thanks
Originally Posted by kyle "hitawall"
i have a Associated 12L4 and durring the day the car is awsome but whe the sun goes down the car gets really loose to the level of when i turn the wheel just a little the car spins out. the car is basically stock but i did put the CRC lowerd pods on. my set up is the green spring on the center shock, white stuff on the dampiner plate, .63 T-plate, 10 deg. blocks in the front with th carbon fiber bace between them, the reactive caster set in the middle meaning a white shim on either side and .020 springs in the front i'm running 4mm ride hieght and Jaco double raps purbles in the front and double pinks in the rear the front is cut to 1.70 and rear at 1.80. what would be a good change to make to get the car not to spin out.
thanks
kyle
thanks
kyle



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