SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

Hi Guys,

We just finished round 3 of the F1RL Points series, race report, photos, results and current standings will be updated as soon as possible.

Also, we received majority of the F201 hop-ups back in stock and our website is updated

Thanks

Steve Wang
www.f1rl.com
www.speedtechrc.com

madjack

iTrader: (28)

Steve how are the new rule working out so far?

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tamiyatrf/

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Ran my F201 on carpet for the first time last weekend. I was running with 40 shore foams front and rear. Man, this car drives so easily as long as it has some decent tires on it.

For outdoor season, I plan on picking up either the Pit or Ride tires so that I can return the car to its scale appearance.

Which one of those(and in which compund) is best for outdoor asphault?

Wilfred

Steve,
Will the evoIII front one way fit in our f201?

SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

madjack,

I think the new rule is working out great. We had a different winner every single round so far, and the A-main list is constantly shuffling around with different drivers making the A-main.

Wilfred,

I'm not sure, but most likely the EVOIII one-way won't fit the F201. The spacing is a little bit different between the two in the gear case. But like I said, not 100% sure though.

Steve Wang
Speed Tech R/C
www.speedtechrc.com
www.f1rl.com

Claydoh

Well, I switched to 3000wt and took off the stab plate and BANG, broke a lower front arm. If we complain enough would Tamiya make arms without the hole for the stab plate? Thats where it broke (of course). Too bad, it was much snappier handling till I snagged that board. I'll keep trying it till I break a few more. So has everybody taken the plate off or what?

SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

Darkseid,

I would go with Pit Mediums, it is a good starting point. The Ride Firms tends to need a higher temperature to work right. I was out at Tamiya one time, and it was quite warm (80 degrees) and at that point the Ride worked better than the Pits. Ride softs need cold weather (which is identical to the Tamiya upgrade tires)Lately, in our F1RL series, we all are running the Pit Mediums, which is good for 60-75 deg. temperature. Anything over that, the mediums might start to over heat. Guys are actually try a mix combination (firm in the rear, medium front...etc.) and it seems to work out sometimes too.

Claydoh,

We don't run the plate, but many of the guys cut down the plate to make them into suspension arm braces. If you just retain the parts around the screws and chop off the rest of it, the plate can be transformed into a really effective suspension brace. Give it a try! Majority of us finds the car to work much better without the plate.

Steve Wang
Speed Tech R/C
www.speedtechrc.com
www.f1rl.com

INFERN0

iTrader: (4)

I run without the plate and had the same problem.i altered my front end a bit tho.I picked up another set of arms (lowers) and after doing in another pair of fronts I accidentally installed a rear arm thinking it was short and not fitting right.Well I warped it enuf to fit and noticed my flaw.Lo and Behold it is the strongest front arm I have used yet,hit lots with it and no breakage.Of course I had to do the other side to match as a pair.
The plastic used is definately durable enough to withstand impact if it is solid without the hole.
This change has altered my front castor slightly,I'll measue it to let you know what it is like but from a drivers handling prespective it corners great.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Okay, maybe I'm missing something here. With all these useless "anodized" screws, washers, and other junk and graphite chassis and what not that have been produced for the F201, I simply can't believe that none of these companies has come up with some stronger suspension arms. The one part that everyone want to be improved, seems to be getting ignored. Whats up with that?

Anyway...

I still use a front plate. But its a custom made piece that I made from soft plastic. (same material as your average DVD case) I originally made it because I broke my Tamiya one, and they were backordered, so I improvised. It worked well, so I kept using it.

Steve: thanks for the tire suggestions.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Well, I see at least someone is working on solving the front arm problem.

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/foru...hreadid=113708

Claydoh

Are these the same ones that they talked about on the Formula1-RC site? They look great. I'll be getting those when they're available. But are we just switching the weak point to the transmission case?

Steve, I cut the plate down like you suggested and I can see how that might do the trick. Thanks for the tip.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Claydoh: yes those are the same ones that Formula1-rc.com was talking about.

I don't know if we're switching the weak point or not. I know in a heavy crash, something has to give. But, we aren't talking about heavy crashes that were breaking the stock arms. These were reasonably mild impacts. So I would think that at least some of those mild impacts that took out the stock arms, could be absorbed by the transmission case without damage.

I don't mind breaking if I hit something hard, its when I clip a corner dot too fast and break an arm that gets me upset. I think with the alloy arms at least that wont be happening.

Wilfred

On the aluminum arms, If you'll crash hard, i think the arm mounts on the gearbox will break, will it?

using the original arms is more competitive and challenging, like the real F1.

TheNige

We should have the Aluminum suspension arms in stock later this week.

The weak point with these arms will be the suspension mounts on the gearboxes....but the gear box mounting points are far more stronger than the plastic arms that break at the plate mounting holes on slight impacts as mentioned in an earlier post.

FPM (Famer Plastics and Machining) is working on a cross bracing system for use with these arms just in case people are worried about breaking the gearboxes.

Another nice thing about the arms is that they won't flex when the suspesion is under load. All the forces will be transferred throught the shocks as they should be.

The arms are a work of art.....and along with the nice aluminum hub carriers by Eagle Racing the F201 would be looking mighty pretty.

Jake
Formula 1 R/C
http://www.formula1-rc.com

Claydoh

Yeah, those Eagle Racing hubs look nice. Are you getting the chassis? Since the demise of Cross, I was almost ready to get a chassis made from scratch. But $70 or so is a bargain.

So are the option diffs the way to go? I had my front unscrew in the main. I had it Loc-tite'd but still ...so the lite ones are way better?