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Old 08-20-2006 | 06:45 PM
  #20041  
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Originally Posted by protc3
looks like they are racing both days.im gonna be running only 1/12th.im waiting for my surikarn cyclone to come in.i sold my other cyclone to marcos
Im lucky
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Old 08-20-2006 | 06:46 PM
  #20042  
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Originally Posted by tony rivas
sure if there racing on sunday
they are starting at 2:00pm on sunday!
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Old 08-20-2006 | 06:52 PM
  #20043  
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Originally Posted by Fervidsea
For the steering link on my SP12M can I get rid of the rods and go with turnbuckles? What would my advantages or disadvantages be? Thanks.
Anyone know?
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Old 08-20-2006 | 06:57 PM
  #20044  
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Default You Suck

Originally Posted by Marcos.J
Im lucky

NO YOU SUCK........
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Old 08-20-2006 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by RED-LINE M03
NO YOU SUCK........
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Old 08-20-2006 | 07:00 PM
  #20046  
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Originally Posted by Fervidsea
Anyone know?
i personally see no advantage to the stock linkage.using turnbuckles will have less slop and have no ackerman variance between left and right wheels.
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Old 08-20-2006 | 11:51 PM
  #20047  
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Originally Posted by tony rivas
Ok iam hook i got one (RC12L4)got some help from Marcos (thanks) jason i need to pit with you next time!
Awesome that you got a 12thy! Shoot me a pm I still need to head your way for the detail job when your ready.
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Old 08-21-2006 | 12:20 AM
  #20048  
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Originally Posted by Fervidsea
Anyone know?

read the warning from corally in the section on steering in your handbook and heed the warning - save you changing it back again.
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Old 08-21-2006 | 03:44 AM
  #20049  
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Originally Posted by hanknmorgan
Hello. I just purchased a used RC12l4 and am new to the forums here. I have a few questions. First is the ESC wiring. The car came with a GM sx9 purple ESC. The wiring was kind of wierd on it and had one of the battery and motor wires soldered together. Meaning that there were only 3 wires soldered to the ESC instead of 4. It also had a black capicitor soldered inline on the leads. All that seemed wierd, so I soldered new deans wires to everything, but I was wondering what the capacitor and funny wiring was for?

I hope that makes sense. Also, does anyone have any good recommendations for an asphalt setup. There is a local track at hobbytown that I would like to get into racing at.

Lastly, I was wondering where I should order bearings from for the rc12l4. One of my front wheels has alot of wobble and a couple of my diff bearings are shot.
Thanks.
I didn't see a full reply to this:
The SX9 only has 3 solder tabs on it anyway. The motor and speedo both need a connection to the batteries, it is better to have a solid piece between motor and cells and t the speedo wire onto it. The speedo does NOT need a large +ve supply as it only needs enough current to control itself and run the BEC circuit. The speedo switches the -ve on and off very fast to control the motor speed/power.
The capacitor is to smooth the voltage entering the speedo and gives a little more punch, when you go hard on the gas the electrical current is large and the batteries voltages 'sags' because of their internal resistance and the wires resistance, the capacitor stores a little energy to reduce this as it can give that energy out fast giving the cells an easier time.
If you use brakes a lot you may need a schottky diode too. This protects the speedo. The SX9 is pretty good, nice and small and has won some 12th world championships!
For best efficiency solder direct to the motor and cells, if not use 4mm 'corrally' type connectors as they have less resistance than deans and you can also end up with less wiring.
-SS
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Old 08-21-2006 | 06:58 AM
  #20050  
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hey all,

been away from the hobby for awhile and have questions?


My local hobby shop stocks almost nothing and I am looking at different cars for this fall season.

Is the corally sp12m a decent middle road car? Is it true that only corally tires can be used on this car? For $100 seems to be a bargin?

Any lipo batts in 1/12th yet? Thanks for the info....

Dan
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Old 08-21-2006 | 07:08 AM
  #20051  
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the corrally is a nice car, but for the price, the 12l4 is a really good car. and yes you need corraly wheels.

we have tried lipo in a 1/12 but was hard to balance. you are running 7.4 volt and then with no weight. it is like a mod with no weight transfer. but was a lot of fun. with lipol, you can only run 3.7 or 7.4v
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Old 08-21-2006 | 08:14 AM
  #20052  
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Originally Posted by protc3
i personally see no advantage to the stock linkage.using turnbuckles will have less slop and have no ackerman variance between left and right wheels.
The steering arms from Corally 1/12 have a different geometry compares to asso's, you can use turnbuckles but you must keep it center point steering on the servo saver(if you find a way to do it), otherwise the ackerman angle will be totally wrong.
Stick with the original system, it works.
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Old 08-21-2006 | 08:32 AM
  #20053  
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Originally Posted by Smartarse88
I didn't see a full reply to this:
The SX9 only has 3 solder tabs on it anyway. The motor and speedo both need a connection to the batteries, it is better to have a solid piece between motor and cells and t the speedo wire onto it. The speedo does NOT need a large +ve supply as it only needs enough current to control itself and run the BEC circuit. The speedo switches the -ve on and off very fast to control the motor speed/power.
The capacitor is to smooth the voltage entering the speedo and gives a little more punch, when you go hard on the gas the electrical current is large and the batteries voltages 'sags' because of their internal resistance and the wires resistance, the capacitor stores a little energy to reduce this as it can give that energy out fast giving the cells an easier time.
If you use brakes a lot you may need a schottky diode too. This protects the speedo. The SX9 is pretty good, nice and small and has won some 12th world championships!
For best efficiency solder direct to the motor and cells, if not use 4mm 'corrally' type connectors as they have less resistance than deans and you can also end up with less wiring.
-SS
Thanks alot for clearing this up. My speed control does have 4 solder tabs but one them (motor +) was left unused. I'll set everything up as you mentioned with "T"ing in to the battery to motor posititve connection. I look forward to learning more about 1/12th and hopefully I will be able to start making it out to track for some racedays before long.
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Old 08-21-2006 | 02:53 PM
  #20054  
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Does anyone know what compound tires for 1/12th scale stock front and Rear would work? im running on a high bite ozite track and I dont want the car to bog down in the turns because of two much traction The car Im currently using a a 12L3
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Old 08-21-2006 | 02:59 PM
  #20055  
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Originally Posted by noline
Does anyone know what compound tires for 1/12th scale stock front and Rear would work? im running on a high bite ozite track and I dont want the car to bog down in the turns because of two much traction The car Im currently using a a 12L3

Standard stock setup is grey rear, purple fronts. Works just about everywhere.
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