1/12 forum
I had both the 3.2 and a rev.4 and the o-ring thing on the 3.2 for me was enough of a bother to sell the car and get the rev.4. The tapper around the batt arear on the crc just made it too dificult to tape the batts in snugly.
Originally Posted by rayhuang
A thin (1/4") wide piece of tape along with the battery o-ring insures that the batteries always stay in. I put the tape towards the back of the cvhassis (behind the o-ring) to stop any posible lifting of the battery. I wont argue the CRC vs. the Rev.4, but to tell someone DONT buy a very good car...
....
Originally Posted by mtveten
I had both the 3.2 and a rev.4 and the o-ring thing on the 3.2 for me was enough of a bother to sell the car and get the rev.4. The tapper around the batt arear on the crc just made it too dificult to tape the batts in snugly.
No I've not owned a SM car. Never could get a hold of anyone to even find out about carrying them at the store.
Eric
I'm not saying the crc doesn't perform, just that their battery retension system is sketchy at best. On track I found my rev.4 and ck 3.2 to drive equally well, but in my book the rev.4 wins due to its more secure battery retension. Now if your good enough to not clip any dots, pipes, burms or bumps the o-ring will work just fine. The o-ring system was a good idea when they came up with it but the cells we use now are much heavier than the 1400s back then and it just isn't strong enough for the extra weight.
Hmmm.... You mean to tell me that this WHOLE time my driving has been inferior because I use an o-ring and a CF strap to hold in my batteries. DOH!!! I'd better take those things off my car right away so that I can be fast.
Adrian... Will you give me a sponsorship since I'm going to use tape now. I'll be fast.
E
Adrian... Will you give me a sponsorship since I'm going to use tape now. I'll be fast.
E
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
John knows first hand how aggressive the T-bar car is 

Every car is good it's just what you do to it with set-up that matters, I have my car set-up with a pretty soft spring and not much dual rate. As I get faster I will dial in a heavier spring rate and more steering, not to mention a more agressive shell, ect. It's all a progression.
Actually I like something Adrian said a few pages ago...
"Pick a car you think looks cool and drive it."
Or something to that effect. I think in the 1/12th market especially that's completely true.
"Pick a car you think looks cool and drive it."
Or something to that effect. I think in the 1/12th market especially that's completely true.
Hi All.. I just purchased a CRC T Force kit.. It came with there Optional grafite t plate.. I built the car with it and it seems very very stiff... What type of track or cinditions is this t plate used for.. Ive been racing for 20 years, but ive never seen a 12th scale plate like this.. thanks
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 102
Originally Posted by BSchorr
Hey,
I am venturing over into 12th scale, Thinking about getting the CRC 3.2R car. I like it mainly cause it has all the nice red screws and parts, Also, i liked the idea of a 4 cell side be side pack, seems so much nicer and cleaner. Any thoughts on it? I see that Marc Rhienart drives one also What differences are there between the Link Car and teh T-Bar Car. Like driving differences and such. Im really into 1/10th sedan, but wanting to venture over into 12th!
I am venturing over into 12th scale, Thinking about getting the CRC 3.2R car. I like it mainly cause it has all the nice red screws and parts, Also, i liked the idea of a 4 cell side be side pack, seems so much nicer and cleaner. Any thoughts on it? I see that Marc Rhienart drives one also What differences are there between the Link Car and teh T-Bar Car. Like driving differences and such. Im really into 1/10th sedan, but wanting to venture over into 12th!
One of the nicest things about the Knife is the cell configuration and the O-Ring! The solid 4 cell pack is easier to handle than split saddle packs and the O-ring works great. The o-ring holds the cells very solid and only the most severe head-on crashes can cause them to move. I have had severe crashes that totally destroyed the tape on my other cars, so tape is not 100% either. Besides, the 3.2R has area to use tape as well.
Most of the cars out there are pretty good, I like the CRC stuff because they really are into 1/12th scale, always making new and improved items, pushing the envelope. They make their own parts, the hubs, bulkheads, front end parts, shock, etc... unlike many of the other manufactures who are nothing more than a graphite plate sprinkled with Associated, CRC and IRS parts.
Originally Posted by Louis
How do I adjust the rear pod droop ?? I'm running a CRC 3.2R
I heard that less droop makes the car smoother into corners.
Thanks
I heard that less droop makes the car smoother into corners.
Thanks
For carpet run zero to 1mm of droop. The more traction the less droop you will need.
For asphalt run 1-2mm of droop. The more droop you run the more weight transfer you will get off power. This improves turn in.
Note that since we are usually on power over 99% of the track this adjustment does not affect our cars as much. It will help you car get into tight low speed corners when you really do have to get off the throttle.
Reduced pod droop will reduce rear traction (mainly forward bite) on bumpy tracks.
Tech Addict
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 511
From: somewhere in the north of england
Originally Posted by CARPET ROCKET
Hi All.. I just purchased a CRC T Force kit.. It came with there Optional grafite t plate.. I built the car with it and it seems very very stiff... What type of track or cinditions is this t plate used for.. Ive been racing for 20 years, but ive never seen a 12th scale plate like this.. thanks
I think that in the near future their will probably be a Rev. 4.5 conversion as I think Speedmerchant is switching over to a 4 bolt rear end for everything.
As far as a CF t-bar, I dont think anyone really runs one, and alot of people I know will even run a 63 t-bar on carpet, and if a 75 is too stiff than i imagine a cf one is way too stiff, also the way it rebounds back is totally different and might make the car a bit screwy on the track.
As far as a CF t-bar, I dont think anyone really runs one, and alot of people I know will even run a 63 t-bar on carpet, and if a 75 is too stiff than i imagine a cf one is way too stiff, also the way it rebounds back is totally different and might make the car a bit screwy on the track.



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