Electric 2wd 1/10 Touring Car
07-01-2006, 12:17 AM
#47
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by Birky
So you have to run special rims that have four holes to attach to the rear axle. 
How easy is it to get these rims for touring cars
How easy is it to get these rims for touring cars
07-01-2006, 03:59 AM
#48
HERE IS THE CRC.. THE PRICE IS AWESOME, AND CRC QUALITY IS UNMATCHED.. Plus parts are and will always be available.. Ive yet to see an academy kit actually keep parts available.. We use to run there 12th sclae for spec class.. till a few months later when no one could get parts.. also the plastic chassis has to go.. you want cheap go with fiberglass.. its alot cheaper then maing a plastc mold.. and its stiffer and wont break..
07-01-2006, 04:08 AM
#50
Originally Posted by tallyrc
also, does anybody know what i'd need to convert a regular 10l to narrow for touring bodies? is the pod the same or narrower? front end? i guess i can look some of this up, but was curious if anybody knew it off-hand. thanks
The front end is narrower.. its the same width as there oval chassis.. also the pod is narrower.. also the same as the oval chassis,,.. you will need a narrow diff hub as well.. the old wide car had a wide hub and wide pod..
07-05-2006, 08:21 AM
#51
This car is great!! Its just what the hobby needs. You pan car guys failed to see that this car is running rubber tires on TC sized rims!! NO FOAMS!
Also did anyone noticed that there is a lot of hype of the Tamiya version only because it has a cool looking ALM body? This thing rocks over that one because it has reactive caster.
You guys with the TCs. How much ride height are you running and how smooth is the track you are running? Also how stiff is your setup? In most cases, you've got too much suspension for your condition.
What I don't like about this car is that although the rims are TC size its not exactly a TC wheel because it mounts on the car like pan car wheels. It would be better to use standard TC rims with the hex to mount on both front and rear.
Also did anyone noticed that there is a lot of hype of the Tamiya version only because it has a cool looking ALM body? This thing rocks over that one because it has reactive caster.
You guys with the TCs. How much ride height are you running and how smooth is the track you are running? Also how stiff is your setup? In most cases, you've got too much suspension for your condition.
What I don't like about this car is that although the rims are TC size its not exactly a TC wheel because it mounts on the car like pan car wheels. It would be better to use standard TC rims with the hex to mount on both front and rear.
07-05-2006, 11:36 AM
#52
Back in the day i bought a acedemy fairlady Z a copy of Kyoshos super alta porsche. It was a cheap car. I am sure this one will be on the cheap side too. Dosen't mean it would not be fun though.
07-05-2006, 12:15 PM
#53
Originally Posted by burbs
The front end is narrower.. its the same width as there oval chassis.. also the pod is narrower.. also the same as the oval chassis,,.. you will need a narrow diff hub as well.. the old wide car had a wide hub and wide pod..
07-05-2006, 03:12 PM
#55
Originally Posted by tallyrc
vtl, i may have misread your post, do you have a pantoura, does anybody? how do they run on asphalt?
The Narrow cars (10L3T) use the 12th scale pod with 10th scale axels, that's the biggest difference...
07-05-2006, 03:23 PM
#56
Here's a pic of a wide car (10L2) back to back to a narrow car (10L3T)
07-05-2006, 03:59 PM
#57
The Narrow cars (10L3T) use the 12th scale pod with 10th scale axels, that's the biggest difference...
07-05-2006, 07:00 PM
#58
Originally Posted by tallyrc
so tell me this? if i can't find the axle or hubs for the 10lt3 (i have searched) can i use more modern pieces fron 10 &12l cars with their hubs and shim them somehow? i found a guy who will sell me a chassis with pod, just no axle and hubs.. bringing it up to a more modern axle and hub is probably not a bad thing... if it will work...
07-05-2006, 09:29 PM
#59
Tech Apprentice
Hi guys, seem that we are sharing the same interest. To share we U all. I just convert my Xray T1 Evo 2 to 2WD.
1. Removed front drive train and front oneway including front shock absorber.
2. Removed center oneway to lighten the rear drive train.
3. Using C paper clip for front suspension that act like torsen spring (front right high can be adjust)
4. Using 200mm Frewer body. Posche GT (Gas car)
5. Add one extra Hex to both rear hub ( got 200mm rear wheel base)
6. Using foam tyre from gas car. (Shore 35 rear and 42 front)
7. Zero toe-in for front and rear
9. Chamber 1.5 degree(front) and 2.0 degree (rear)
10. Power by 3300 NiMH with Novak SS5800
11. Lighter than touring but heavier than 1/10 pan car (not much)
12. More than enough traction at rear end.
After experimental with the track, the car as fas as GTB 5.5R (touring) and other 1/10 pan car (Novak SS5800) on the straight. Very responsive and easy to control in tight section. Looks more easier than my buddie normal pan car to control. Very stable. I got T105 for touring racing but this car bring me to new excitement.
This week, I will test with U-Force75 with Shadow.
1. Removed front drive train and front oneway including front shock absorber.
2. Removed center oneway to lighten the rear drive train.
3. Using C paper clip for front suspension that act like torsen spring (front right high can be adjust)
4. Using 200mm Frewer body. Posche GT (Gas car)
5. Add one extra Hex to both rear hub ( got 200mm rear wheel base)
6. Using foam tyre from gas car. (Shore 35 rear and 42 front)
7. Zero toe-in for front and rear
9. Chamber 1.5 degree(front) and 2.0 degree (rear)
10. Power by 3300 NiMH with Novak SS5800
11. Lighter than touring but heavier than 1/10 pan car (not much)
12. More than enough traction at rear end.
After experimental with the track, the car as fas as GTB 5.5R (touring) and other 1/10 pan car (Novak SS5800) on the straight. Very responsive and easy to control in tight section. Looks more easier than my buddie normal pan car to control. Very stable. I got T105 for touring racing but this car bring me to new excitement.
This week, I will test with U-Force75 with Shadow.
07-05-2006, 10:07 PM
#60
Tech Regular
I have this old cheap pan car, yet very fast with 5.00 final drive (80/16) with 9x2 motor,,
bulkhead is plastic, T-bar car, center shock and friction plate (modified to V shape dual shock layout),
and the good things than Academy one is it have hex adapter on both end of rear axle for nomal touring wheels & rubber tire, it does need dismantle right end adapter for accessing diff adjusting nut, but its okay for the benefit given
bulkhead is plastic, T-bar car, center shock and friction plate (modified to V shape dual shock layout),
and the good things than Academy one is it have hex adapter on both end of rear axle for nomal touring wheels & rubber tire, it does need dismantle right end adapter for accessing diff adjusting nut, but its okay for the benefit given
