Our track is real tight and twisty, what body would you recomend??
Does anyone know this one??

With the steep nose, I'll guess it has lots of steering...?

It's a Hot Bodies Ferrari (or a Corally F-type, which is the same).
It doesn't has a lot of downforce, actually it has very little.
You're better off with Protoform's Speed 12 (B) or Parma's Speed 8 and Zytec.

I need new link pivot balls for my rev.4 (don't ask why). what are the best replacements?

Get a package of Dubro 259 EZ Adjust ball links, the balls in that set are the ones you want.

I'm new to 12th scale and have a dynasty 19t that i will be using, does anyone have brush, spring and gearing/rollout recommendations for a starting point (80ft back straight w twisty infield)? also anyone know what the stock spur gear count is on a crc 3.2r? any pointers on setup for the 3.2?

thanks

Run a Trinity E-brush (4499) with green spring on - and a red on +. Gear it 2.09" roll out. I know it sounds high for a small track but this motor is ballistic when geared up.

On big asphalt tracks I have geared it as high as 2.20" roll out.

#1.Allright . . .I am getting very close to getting my 12L4 all figured out. A couple more things to figure out though. It seems my non-spur side rear tire rubs against the lower rear pod. I can't get it far enough towards the end of the axle that it doesn't rub. I have 8 of the thin shims between the pod bearing and the left rear wheel and none on the spur side. I can add more shims I suppose but it looks like I would need like 20 because even with the 8 there is a bunch of room on the axle before it would move the wheel away from the lower pod. Does this make sense? Do I need to cut the inside of my tire down? Are some tires compatable right out of the box? I have another set of tires to try (jacos) but it doesn't see liek this will help.How does one decide how many shims to run on what side of the axle?

#2. What combination of servo placement and servo saver arrangement would you reccomend for a 1/12 rookie. I have driven sedan for a while and can control it pretty well. Should I run the servo forward or back and then should I run the servo saver with the ballcups facing the front or the rear and should I mount them in the top middle or bottom hole? Or is it a matter of taste and no one will know but me?

#3 Ride height. I have tall tires (44.3 front and 45.9 rear. Both new unknown brand) Where should I aim to get my ride height? 3.0-3.5 mm?
Thanks again people. I haven't been let down yet.

#1.Allright . . .I am getting very close to getting my 12L4 all figured out. A couple more things to figure out though. It seems my non-spur side rear tire rubs against the lower rear pod. I can't get it far enough towards the end of the axle that it doesn't rub. I have 8 of the thin shims between the pod bearing and the left rear wheel and none on the spur side. I can add more shims I suppose but it looks like I would need like 20 because even with the 8 there is a bunch of room on the axle before it would move the wheel away from the lower pod. Does this make sense?

You are running Parma or old TRC wheels with offset. If you run Jaco or new TRC you wont have any problems. The old solution was to file/sand the lower pod plate until it no longer rubs.

Do I need to cut the inside of my tire down?

No.

Are some tires compatable right out of the box?

Jaco and New TRC.

How does one decide how many shims to run on what side of the axle?

You shim you axle so the tires are equidistant from the center of the car. Then you can add shims to change the rear track. This changes the car the car handles.

#2. What combination of servo placement and servo saver arrangement would you reccomend for a 1/12 rookie. I have driven sedan for a while and can control it pretty well. Should I run the servo forward or back and then should I run the servo saver with the ballcups facing the front or the rear and should I mount them in the top middle or bottom hole? Or is it a matter of taste and no one will know but me?

The easiest way to setup you servo is to use the kit angled mounts. This gives you perfect steering geometry out of the box. Some guys run their servos flat on carpet but you have to get long offset ball studs for your spindles or you will have terrible bump to in. Mike Lufaso and Mike McMahon run their servos angled all the time and they aren't slow on carpet so I run my servos angled all the time.

#3 Ride height. I have tall tires (44.3 front and 45.9 rear. Both new unknown brand) Where should I aim to get my ride height? 3.0-3.5 mm?
Thanks again people. I haven't been let down yet.

You tires are the perfect size so that really good. You should be around 3.5-4mm in the front now and you will need to run a 1 or 2 rear axle cam with the hole low to get the same rear ride height. I never run higher than 3.5mm and never lower than 3mm. Use washers under you front suspension blocks to get the ride height lower than 4mm. Xray and Schumacher wheel spring washers are .5mm thick, M4 washers are .75mm thick and the stock AE alloy washers are 1.6mm thick. HPI makes a trick wheel spacer kit that has aluminum washers. That would be the ultimate ride height adjuster kit...if you can find a place that has it...lol!

adrianm is pretty much spot on.

On the front ride height, you may check with Andy. He did the group buy on the fiberlight stuff. and I think tony ordered some and is no longer running so you may be able to just buy his.

we run right around 3mm any lower and you will rub around the right hand sweeper

chop the rear lower pod plate or shim out. most like running as much rear track as they can get.

most of us run the assoc servo mount. I believe that Tim and David run it mounted to the chassis.

I should have clarified. I am have the stock associated angled servo mount. There are two sets of holes that allow you to adjust the servo to two different postions. One forward more and one backward more. I was asking which of the two I should use. I have also seen people thread their ball studs so the stud sticks out in front of the servo saver and some thread them oposite with the balls pointing towards the rear of the car positioning them between the servo and the servo saver. Is one way better than the other for a beginner? And then finally there are three holes in the Kinbrough servo saver . . .high, middle, and low. Any suggestions as to how to arange all of this? Thanks again guys. I jsut want to get running smoothly with as little frustration on the track as possible.

Set your servo back for now. If you need that extra bit of weight then you could move it forward provided the tie-rods remain inline. As for the ball studs on the s-saver, you could have them either way as long as there's no contact with ball end and servo while at full throw. The s-saver should allow you to set-up with short ball studs and not make contact with the servo. I have tried it both ways and moving weight forward made the car less twitchy and scrubbed more tire.

For good ackerman angles, mount the servo so that the ears are almost in contact with the back of the front suspension. I mount my servo flat for use on carpet. Also, for ackerman, I mount my ball studs with the balls forward and to the outer-most holes, and will level the turnbuckles by shimming up the studs mounted in the steering blocks. If at all possible I back up the studs with mini 4-40 lock-nuts, or 4-40 flat nuts and superglue where the stud pokes through them. On my servo saver I have made a CF backing plate to help keep the servo saver from distorting and flexing while steering.

This is very similar to Timmay's recommendation for ackermann and bump steer for carpet. This is my T-fource and it was fast right out of the box.

I usually run more sweep in the steering links, this is almost stright across, but it is angled. Well see longterm if I prefer it to more angled links.

I run a similar set-up also but I run on high-bite indoor asphalt...