Losi XXX-S
#4546
Tech Apprentice
Thanks.
#4548
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Just finished my G Plus version XXXS and it is a very nice kit. For the money it is very hard to beat. Comes with all the trick stuff you could want for a kit out of the box. It went together very easily and the parts fit is very nice as well.
I can hardly wait til next Saturday to try this thing out. I'm normally not a Losi fan but this could help to change my mind. The more I look at the finished product the more i'm impressed with it. The single belt drive system is so free and smooth. I didn't even spray out the bearings at all and it is still free as can be.
Losi did their homework on this new G Plus version.
I can hardly wait til next Saturday to try this thing out. I'm normally not a Losi fan but this could help to change my mind. The more I look at the finished product the more i'm impressed with it. The single belt drive system is so free and smooth. I didn't even spray out the bearings at all and it is still free as can be.
Losi did their homework on this new G Plus version.
#4549
Tech Addict
iTrader: (25)
Jeff Werner- The pads do have a part number and I think they list for like $1.20 but I don't have my manual here. They are basically about 150 grit sandpaper rings. You just pop the diff balls out, but the sandpaper rings in with the grit facing the pulley and then build the diff the exact same way, but locking it tight. And the thrust bearing is still in there, it keeps the diff from backing off incase it does slip.
#4550
Wyd,
That's what I like to hear...along with "Your kit's shipping now"
Considering they have to fly all the way to NZ, I hope to get it before Xmas...fingers crossed.
That's what I like to hear...along with "Your kit's shipping now"
Considering they have to fly all the way to NZ, I hope to get it before Xmas...fingers crossed.
#4551
Tech Apprentice
Thats an intresting way to lock the diff up. I know Dragon R/C makes a spool for the XXX-S, but I bet the Losi way is lighter with the composite outdrives. Just wondering if the outdrives can take the extra stress without breaking. I guess the safe way would be to add some Trinity outdrive saver rings. But thats another $20...
#4552
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
You really need to use some kind of outdrive savers when you lock the diff. When you crash the car and a wheel stops suddenly the motor inertia will snap the outdrive with a locked diff instead of turning the opposite side wheel. I modified my oudrives with a groove to accept the saver rings from an old one-way. The sleeve type oudrives savers should work without any modifications. The aluminum spools are advertised as lighter than a standard diff. There is a locked diff thread still running on Trinity's Tech Talk.
#4553
What's the benefit of the new yellow belt?
Thanks,
Jits
Thanks,
Jits
#4554
Tech Apprentice
The yellow belt is more flexable (Has 2 strands removed), but keeps tooth profile better for less skipping.
#4555
I have been running the spool by Losi in my car now for a couple of weeks no problems with the outdrives, and believe me I hit things really hard when I do.
Next question, has anyone tried running the 41 tooth pulleys in the front and rear of their car? If so how did it work? I figure if you lower the drive ratio of the car it should technically mean more speed. Does this sound correct?
Anyone also have a good setup for stock, running Sorex 24r in the front HPI red inserts front, Sorex 20r in rear HPI red inserts. Any suggestions appreciated.
Next question, has anyone tried running the 41 tooth pulleys in the front and rear of their car? If so how did it work? I figure if you lower the drive ratio of the car it should technically mean more speed. Does this sound correct?
Anyone also have a good setup for stock, running Sorex 24r in the front HPI red inserts front, Sorex 20r in rear HPI red inserts. Any suggestions appreciated.
#4556
Tech Apprentice
"Next question, has anyone tried running the 41 tooth pulleys in the front and rear of their car? If so how did it work? I figure if you lower the drive ratio of the car it should technically mean more speed. "
Basically you are changing the final drive ratio by doing that. A eaier way to change gearing is to just change your pinion gear if you need more speed. Just make sure to not overgear your motor.
Basically you are changing the final drive ratio by doing that. A eaier way to change gearing is to just change your pinion gear if you need more speed. Just make sure to not overgear your motor.
#4557
Tech Regular
If you run the 41 tooth diff gears in both the front and rear of the car you will not be able to get the belt tight enough with out modifying the belt tensioner. The change from a 1.83 to a 1.78 drive ratio is not enough the justify the work. Besides the Losi car allready has one of the highest drive ratio's of the sedans.
#4558
Tech Initiate
Off power over steer on carpet
My local club just started it's Winter Carpet series a few weeks ago and this year I picked up a XXX-S being the avid Losi fan that I am. I love the car but I've been having a small problem with keeping the rear end planted when decelerating and entering a corner. We've been running a really short track so far which is a 48 x 32 layout on nappless carpet made of Olefin (just like "fall apart" Ozite only much stronger). The racing surface has an extreme amount of available traction and I've raced on it many times before. So far I changed from the stock setup and went to an 80wt oil front and back w/ stock purple springs and red pistons in front, and HPI yellow (stiffer than Losi silvers) springs w/ red piston in the rear. I've moved the rear shocks bottom mounts to the outer holes on the a-arms and lower the ride height as low as possible with the droop set at 7 on the Losi gauge. The front ride height is set with the top of the shock collars flush with the top of the shock body and the droop is set a 7 also. I'm running Jaco Medium Purple foams all the way around and using Trinity Red Dot compound on the rears. I've also dialed all of the brakes out of my speed control.
Right now I'm racing in the stock class because of the small track but this weekend I'll switch to mod as we are doubling the tracks size. It hooks up alot better now but I don't like the inconsistancy of using a traction additive since it tends to wear off towards the end of the race. As well, I'm also concerned that switching to mod will magnify the problem due to the higher speeds. Any educated advice would be appreciated.
Right now I'm racing in the stock class because of the small track but this weekend I'll switch to mod as we are doubling the tracks size. It hooks up alot better now but I don't like the inconsistancy of using a traction additive since it tends to wear off towards the end of the race. As well, I'm also concerned that switching to mod will magnify the problem due to the higher speeds. Any educated advice would be appreciated.
#4559
Tech Addict
iTrader: (25)
I_GhostTown_I- try going to 60wt in the rear, black front springs, green or purple rear and definetely lengthening your rear camber rod (inside hole on the tower, inside bottom if you have the new shock tower, and also inside hole on the hub). That also seems like alot of droop, it could be binding your car up and not letting it roll at all. With that soft of a rear spring compared to the front, it's probably unloading alot of weight on the rear tires.
Also make sure to get the new rear arms/hubs.
Have you tried paragon instead of red-dot? I like red-dot outdoors, but paragon is about the best carpet stuff and it lasts all race...
Also make sure to get the new rear arms/hubs.
Have you tried paragon instead of red-dot? I like red-dot outdoors, but paragon is about the best carpet stuff and it lasts all race...
#4560
Thanks for the info guys, still looking for a good setup for carpet, stock motor, sorex 24 and 20 tires.
Thanks,
Thanks,