yes, the solid front axle is the same thing as a locked diff the only difference is that a locked diff has a chance of slipping because it is just two diff halves tightened down all the way, where as a solid front axle is just one solid piece so there is no chance of slippage, if i can get the locked diff to work well on carpet i will probaly get a solid axle for the sake of not having to worry about slippage.

I have ran mine witht he NTC steering for 2 weeks now, I really like it. if you guys want more to see pics, just say and I will get it from a few different angles.

Just so you know: The rack reduces ackerman (more then cutting the rack) so the car is easier to drive, center's up better and feels a lot mor percise.

Korgae

Here's a picture of my friends car with the NTC3 rack. This was a "first try" for me, so it can be done cleaner. I have seen it done on a mill too (vs. a dremel), that looks alot better. When the cars assembled it looks killer. The parts bags you'll need are #2228 swing rack, 2229 swing rack hardware, and 1714 swing rack bearing kit. You'll also need 3 short ball studs for the rack.

Excuse the crudeness of this picture, I am trying to highlite the "webs" you will take your measurements from to assemble the rack correctly. Measure .300"from the outside edge of the bottom web and scribe a line. Then measure .54" from the outside of the short vertical web and scribe a line, do this to each side of the short vertical web. Assuming your short vertical web is .08" thick, you should have a 1" space between the points where the scribed lines meet. Drill your holes there. I hope I explained that correctly!

NTC3NUT/Korgae:

Hi,

I have mine mounted 180 degrees from yours. sorry I can't post a pic as everythings packed up for Cleveland. as for how the TC3 drives... you will lose some ackerman. with 4 degree blocks (and the F+2 block) it will turn in harder and it will drive off the corners better. I did mine at the track.... Dremeling out all the webbing and "eyeballing" the back mounting holes. (I know I sound like a "hack" when I do things.but I always seem to do these things in between rounds) I'm doing another chassis the "right" way at Cleveland
how well did it work.......my son set TQ and held it for the first 2 rounds. and finished 3rd in the A main. he has been in the A alot this year but never set TQ. a friend drove the TC3 "swing" and loved it. my son wasn't comfortable with it at first but it seemed to suit his driving style.

NTC3NUT: will I see you at Cleveland????

Thanks

Hello
What is the difference between a central one-way and a front one-way? I have a central one-way but haven't tryed yet, I was thinking that if I locked the front diff and installed the central one-way it'd be like having a front one-way installed, right? Lastly when do you recomend using a central one-way instead of a front one, and vice-versa? Thank you for your answers.
Jorge

I mounted mine a little bit more forward then TC3nut (from the look of his pic)
What I did was to line up my TC3 Chassis with my NTC3 chassis, I then bolted the NTC3 chassis to the TC3 chassis via the 4 front transmision holes. This provides the nitro chassis as the perfect template. I wanted to have the bellcranks in the same posistion as the Nitro car. This way its lined up in relation to the center of the front arms (pivot point) I figure its a starting point...
I am working on pics. to show you guys.

Hope this helps.
Korgae

I suppose you could do it just about any way you like. I had no clue where to start but I was in luck. Josh Cuyrl was at our track all week practicing for Cleveland and he gave me alot of good info on the swap. It was my first try and it went together really easy. The only thing I forgot to mention in my last 2 posts was the material removed from the sides of the chassis to clear the tie rods. I added the highlite to my second photograph for you guys. Just grind it even in this spot vs. the way it's ramped in stock form. If you look at my first photo (without the text) you can also see the "C" shape ground into the rack arms. You'll have to do this to get maximum swing. Otherwise the arms hit on the spring prematurely. Again, I hope I explained this so that it can be clearly understood (I don't want anyone messing up a perfectly good graphite chassis on my account!). Good Luck.

Here's the photo with the updated highlites I just posted about.

Fakk2,
My wife and I plan to be there on Sat. & maybe Sun. to watch. I have a few friends racing, i want to cheer them (and Associated) on to victory!

I have a FT with aluminum dogbones. One of them is slightly bent. I want to get the IRS composite dogbones. Can I use the stock stub axles with these or do I need to buy additional MIP stuff to make these work?

As far as I know the IRS bones are the same as stock, just with their pin cushions installed, so your stock axles will work fine.

IRS also now makes a aluminum "big bone" its the same thickness as the plastic composite bone. Their also anodized blue to match the rest of the car.

Since I switched I have not bent one. and they won't shatter like the plastic ones can

As Korgae said about the new bones from IRS they are nice. They come with the pin cusion already installed. If your local shop doesn't have any they are in stock at KT Hobbies.

Just wondering, did these come out at the same time as the new front 2-hole arms or earlier?

Thanks