Where can I find an online version of a manual for the RC12L4? I know I saw one online a while back. Im thinking about getting into 1/12 and like to see how its made up.

As long as the LiPo goes to the ESC and the ESC connects to the receiver, you should be okay. Most of the popular ESCs reduce the voltage to a level that the receiver and servo can handle (5 or 6 volts usually)
For those using conventional 4 cell packs, I'm working on a solution to the problem. Anyone interested in being a beta tester?

A reciever pack solves the problem.

No, sorry that doesn't work because after a few lines of text, it will be cut off with ...

Therefore you can't read the full post nor can you click on it to see it.

i personally love this big long thread, and hope it never goes away. even when im not racing or have a 12th scale, im always reading this thread. theres always something new to read here everyday. Its the only thread i subscribe to that i make a point to read everyday. i need it like my coffee in the morning

i have a question about putting the shim under the t-bar for more on power rear traction. what size shim should i put under the t-bar

When I ran that-it was a trinity aluminum motor shim. So less than 0.030". I dont think you need much to gain the effect you want.

Ray

thanks

Click on the first line (after the white paper icon), and you'll go to the whole post.

Hey guys, I'm thinking about racing 1/12th this winter and need your input. I will be racing 19T class, what is a good beginner 1/12 car that is easy to work on? I mean easy to get it to work? Would a RC12L4 be okay? I'm not a beginner.

I think what you are talking about is how much do you turn in or out the tweak screws to adjust your tweak. Correct? If that is what you are asking, start with both rear tires at equal diameter and both front tires at equal diameter. Next, with the batteries out of the car, set the car on a level surface and back the tweak screws out until they are no longer touching the chassis. Next, take a very thin strip of paper and place it between the chassis and the tweak screw. Turn the tweak screw into the T plate or down towards the chassis until you feel drag on the strip of paper when you try to pull it out. Do this for both screws. Now turn the tweak screws in about 1/4 turn and you will be at the perfect starting point to tweak your car. Providing that your fiberglass T plate is fresh, you can tweak your car either with a tweak station, four scales or with the tried and true coin drop method. Remember that you do not have to turn the tweak screws very much to adjust the tweak. Turn them in 1/4 turn increments and if you go over 1/2 turn on one screw, back the other screw out at least 1/4 or you can stress the T bar where the tweak screws thread into the T bar.

Definitely go with the 12L4 or the CRC T-Fource to begin with.
Most of all the popular "conversions" you see out are based off the 12L series.
So get going on the 12L4 and when you get better, you can always uprgrade it with a conversion. The BMI for instance.
The T-fource is basically a 12L4 with tube dampers, lowered rear pods and battery braces. Both are easy to work on.

You cannot go wrong with a 12L4. From the 12L4 platform there are many, MANY tuner conversion kits available. The other option is a link car like the CRC or Rev. 4.

i wrecked my chassis on my l3 and want to get a new one
is there a better one without doing a full conversion to it.

Just get an L4 chassis. You'll need the chassis and the battery holders.