Good to know! Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! So many things to try and so little time available to test!

Martin Paradis

Setting the caster was the tricky part. I found the RC Maker/Inov8 caster pieces worked.
I remove the 1mm shim ... slide the Caster plate on and tighten upper link down.

I learned a lot last summer about using rear caster for rotation.
5 has been the sweet spot for me on high grip black carpet.
If Im a little loose on a new lay out or lower bite I can pull it back to 3.5/4* and settle it down.

To be honest I never tried the bypass on just the front. I took a shot at the wall of ideas.
My theory ... as pressure is applied to the tire, traction increases.
So mid corner to exit when Im throttling up Im not really applying as much pressure. But on exit I might gain forward grip.
And on entry the shock would extend quicker giving me better entry.
Really just outside of the box thinking that works for me.
A few of the other locals asked me the same question but after trying they felt it made their rear feel stable and gained forward grip.

just curious, as I’m running the Ghibli 3.0, which outside of the top drivers I haven’t seen many amateurs using.

do you have a picture of the real hubs flipped upside now

I need some help. I am trying to understand the point of the pin that supports the movement of the shock tower to the bulkhead. There is a screw and based on instructions it looks like I am suppose to screw it so the shock tower doesn't move. What is the point of the pin to allow for movement? There is also a reference for 'setup' is the screw used for another purpose? To limit the travel to the shock tower to the bulk head? Also 2x6 seems short to secure the shock tower to bulkhead. Any help would be helpful.

I am referring to page 5 of the manual. Part A2556R (shock tower) to A2171A (Bulkhead) with SiG2x6 screw.

My account is too new to attached photos or share public hosting links.. Thank you.

http://www.mugenseiki.com/images/mtc...e%20070625.pdf

Here is the setup guide you are looking for.

Hello, has anyone got any advice on organizing and hiding wires? In particular the motor sensor cable and the ESC BEC cable?

my sensor cable is long-ish but wondering what to do with it, and the ESC cable, is this going under the ESC and then under the motor?

Thank you very much. This was very helpful.

Regarding sensor cable, is separate the wires and twist it.

Thanks for showing. So I twisted it like that too, have you stuck it down to the chassis with tape or it’s just free flowing? I guess I’m curious if it’s close to touching the belts?

and with the ESC cable, lots of people say go under the ESC and then through or against the motor mount, but there doesn’t seem enough room to me.

cheers

I don't tape down the sensor cable. My sensor cable loops one time to take up slack. Physics seems to keep it in place. If you look at that motor mount on the motor side, and just below the lower motor screw holes, you'll see that the mount has a cutout where your ESC wire can flow through under the motor. All assembled, your ESC wire should move somewhat freely through that groove in the motor mount. It shouldn't be pinched.

thank you, will give that a go

can I also ask where you mount your transponder?

For myself, I 3D print a mount for AMB.

any issues with interference or RF issues on top of the servo?