MTC3
#961
Tech Initiate
Joined: Mar 2026
Posts: 37
Definitely going in the right direction. Mirrored as to what the instructions say.
it is insanely tight, almost like it’s not meant to fit.
im guessing this is one of those immense pressure needed for installation and after that it moves freely?
#962
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,179
From: CT
I used some simple pliers with the jaws opened as wide as possible.
Bite onto them square and squeeze.
If the plastic is a tight fit intot the arm after them rollup a piece of sand paper and clean the hole out until it slides in snug.
Tool wear can make the arms a little tight.
#963
Tech Initiate
Joined: Mar 2026
Posts: 37
Dont do it in the arm ..... its easier.
I used some simple pliers with the jaws opened as wide as possible.
Bite onto them square and squeeze.
If the plastic is a tight fit intot the arm after them rollup a piece of sand paper and clean the hole out until it slides in snug.
Tool wear can make the arms a little tight.
I used some simple pliers with the jaws opened as wide as possible.
Bite onto them square and squeeze.
If the plastic is a tight fit intot the arm after them rollup a piece of sand paper and clean the hole out until it slides in snug.
Tool wear can make the arms a little tight.
#964
Tech Initiate
Joined: Mar 2026
Posts: 37
I’ve looked at numerous YouTube. Videos, tutorials, setups online but still feel there isn’t much that talks about this as a noob.
For mounting the bodyshell, I know I need to use the rear mounts that go through the spoiler where the rear horizontal posts go through, but how do I know how short to cut the rear and front posts.
I’ve seen images of Ronald Volker’s car from ETS who obviously runs this car and the same bodyshell, so I could just copy that, but are there tips on where to start with cutting posts and mounting tips, just don’t want to screw up the mounting step.
Also, for the rear post mounts that go through the spoiler (A2439E), are you screwing into the rear of the body, or just from the top.
thanks
For mounting the bodyshell, I know I need to use the rear mounts that go through the spoiler where the rear horizontal posts go through, but how do I know how short to cut the rear and front posts.
I’ve seen images of Ronald Volker’s car from ETS who obviously runs this car and the same bodyshell, so I could just copy that, but are there tips on where to start with cutting posts and mounting tips, just don’t want to screw up the mounting step.
Also, for the rear post mounts that go through the spoiler (A2439E), are you screwing into the rear of the body, or just from the top.
thanks
Last edited by Racer311; 05-01-2026 at 05:54 PM.
#965
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 219
From: Harrisburg
I’ve looked at numerous YouTube. Videos, tutorials, setups online but still feel there isn’t much that talks about this as a noob.
For mounting the bodyshell, I know I need to use the rear mounts that go through the spoiler where the rear horizontal posts go through, but how do I know how short to cut the rear and front posts.
For mounting the bodyshell, I know I need to use the rear mounts that go through the spoiler where the rear horizontal posts go through, but how do I know how short to cut the rear and front posts.
Originally Posted by Racer311
Also, for the rear post mounts that go through the spoiler (A2439E), are you screwing into the rear of the body, or just from the top.




#966
Tech Initiate
Joined: Mar 2026
Posts: 37
A bit of trial and error could see you through this. Trim and test fit until you the shell fits. If you can grab an extra set of A2439 chop with peace of mind. Having said that, I'm running the Speciale, and my front posts have 8.5 holes remaining, and rear posts have 7 holes remaining. The pics show where everything lines up in the end for me with those hole counts.
I attach each A2539E with 2 screws through the spoiler and shell, and with 1 screw from the rear. However, there are similar designs out there (e.g., RC Maker) that only mount from the top through the spoiler and shell with no rear screw.




I attach each A2539E with 2 screws through the spoiler and shell, and with 1 screw from the rear. However, there are similar designs out there (e.g., RC Maker) that only mount from the top through the spoiler and shell with no rear screw.




just need to get a ride height gauge to set that and then I’ll deal with the body,
appreciate your time
#967
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,179
From: CT
Been running the car for the past few months on high bite black carpet.
Still testing and trying different things but so far this has been my fastest setup.
I did mod the rear hubs by flipping them upside down.
I have 2 identical setups on both cars - one normal rear hubs and one flipped.
Flipping them gave me the same rotational feel I always felt on Mi9's
Picked up 2tenths on my average and the rear is very stable.
Need a 12mm countersunk screw for the hub side and a 8mm grub screw loctite into the steering arm.
Flip them and use the same shims - I started with 2.5mm shims on the steering knuckle.
Still testing and trying different things but so far this has been my fastest setup.
I did mod the rear hubs by flipping them upside down.
I have 2 identical setups on both cars - one normal rear hubs and one flipped.
Flipping them gave me the same rotational feel I always felt on Mi9's
Picked up 2tenths on my average and the rear is very stable.
Need a 12mm countersunk screw for the hub side and a 8mm grub screw loctite into the steering arm.
Flip them and use the same shims - I started with 2.5mm shims on the steering knuckle.
#968
Tech Initiate
Joined: Mar 2026
Posts: 37
Been running the car for the past few months on high bite black carpet.
Still testing and trying different things but so far this has been my fastest setup.
I did mod the rear hubs by flipping them upside down.
I have 2 identical setups on both cars - one normal rear hubs and one flipped.
Flipping them gave me the same rotational feel I always felt on Mi9's
Picked up 2tenths on my average and the rear is very stable.
Need a 12mm countersunk screw for the hub side and a 8mm grub screw loctite into the steering arm.
Flip them and use the same shims - I started with 2.5mm shims on the steering knuckle.
Still testing and trying different things but so far this has been my fastest setup.
I did mod the rear hubs by flipping them upside down.
I have 2 identical setups on both cars - one normal rear hubs and one flipped.
Flipping them gave me the same rotational feel I always felt on Mi9's
Picked up 2tenths on my average and the rear is very stable.
Need a 12mm countersunk screw for the hub side and a 8mm grub screw loctite into the steering arm.
Flip them and use the same shims - I started with 2.5mm shims on the steering knuckle.
#969
Tech Initiate
Joined: Mar 2026
Posts: 37
A bit of trial and error could see you through this. Trim and test fit until you the shell fits. If you can grab an extra set of A2439 chop with peace of mind. Having said that, I'm running the Speciale, and my front posts have 8.5 holes remaining, and rear posts have 7 holes remaining. The pics show where everything lines up in the end for me with those hole counts.
I attach each A2539E with 2 screws through the spoiler and shell, and with 1 screw from the rear. However, there are similar designs out there (e.g., RC Maker) that only mount from the top through the spoiler and shell with no rear screw.




I attach each A2539E with 2 screws through the spoiler and shell, and with 1 screw from the rear. However, there are similar designs out there (e.g., RC Maker) that only mount from the top through the spoiler and shell with no rear screw.




#971
Been running the car for the past few months on high bite black carpet.
Still testing and trying different things but so far this has been my fastest setup.
I did mod the rear hubs by flipping them upside down.
I have 2 identical setups on both cars - one normal rear hubs and one flipped.
Flipping them gave me the same rotational feel I always felt on Mi9's
Picked up 2tenths on my average and the rear is very stable.
Need a 12mm countersunk screw for the hub side and a 8mm grub screw loctite into the steering arm.
Flip them and use the same shims - I started with 2.5mm shims on the steering knuckle.
Still testing and trying different things but so far this has been my fastest setup.
I did mod the rear hubs by flipping them upside down.
I have 2 identical setups on both cars - one normal rear hubs and one flipped.
Flipping them gave me the same rotational feel I always felt on Mi9's
Picked up 2tenths on my average and the rear is very stable.
Need a 12mm countersunk screw for the hub side and a 8mm grub screw loctite into the steering arm.
Flip them and use the same shims - I started with 2.5mm shims on the steering knuckle.
#972
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,179
From: CT
I always liked the feel of this way on my Schuie's.
Im the type of driver that likes to throw the car hard into turns since many of the tracks I race on are tighter ones.
But I also got nervous with the wiggle on entry with the normal setup.
So I experimented and flipped my rears like the Schuies are and I can throw the car hard or hug a sweeper now with no wiggle entry to mid corner.
Plus it lowers the CG a fractional amount and you dont need a ton of shims.
Stability and Rotation.
Last edited by Robbob; 05-06-2026 at 04:23 AM.
#973
It changes (increases) the rate of the reactive toe .... not the amount of rear toe but how quick it reacts.
I always liked the feel of this way on my Schuie's.
Im the type of driver that likes to throw the car hard into turns since many of the tracks I race on are tighter ones.
But I also got nervous with the wiggle on entry with the normal setup.
So I experimented and flipped my rears like the Schuies are and I can throw the car hard or hug a sweeper now with no wiggle entry to mid corner.
Plus it lowers the CG a fractional amount and you dont need a ton of shims.
Stability and Rotation.
I always liked the feel of this way on my Schuie's.
Im the type of driver that likes to throw the car hard into turns since many of the tracks I race on are tighter ones.
But I also got nervous with the wiggle on entry with the normal setup.
So I experimented and flipped my rears like the Schuies are and I can throw the car hard or hug a sweeper now with no wiggle entry to mid corner.
Plus it lowers the CG a fractional amount and you dont need a ton of shims.
Stability and Rotation.
#974
Tech Addict
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 569
From: Montréal, Qc
It changes (increases) the rate of the reactive toe .... not the amount of rear toe but how quick it reacts.
I always liked the feel of this way on my Schuie's.
Im the type of driver that likes to throw the car hard into turns since many of the tracks I race on are tighter ones.
But I also got nervous with the wiggle on entry with the normal setup.
So I experimented and flipped my rears like the Schuies are and I can throw the car hard or hug a sweeper now with no wiggle entry to mid corner.
Plus it lowers the CG a fractional amount and you dont need a ton of shims.
Stability and Rotation.
I always liked the feel of this way on my Schuie's.
Im the type of driver that likes to throw the car hard into turns since many of the tracks I race on are tighter ones.
But I also got nervous with the wiggle on entry with the normal setup.
So I experimented and flipped my rears like the Schuies are and I can throw the car hard or hug a sweeper now with no wiggle entry to mid corner.
Plus it lowers the CG a fractional amount and you dont need a ton of shims.
Stability and Rotation.
Martin Paradis
#975
Looking at your setup, you run 5 degree caster in the rear? Also, you run bypass shocks in the rear. What made you go in that direction? We usually see it in the front only. The hub thing is quite intriguing, definitely something to try. How did you set up the caster with the hub upside down? Set it up with the hub the normal way and then flipping it?
Martin Paradis
Martin Paradis



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