Hi all, my 2S lipo charging/discharging options to buy are one of the following.

1. Icharger 456duo w/rcdischarger.
2. Cayote X5 + Hitec AD380 discharger + power supply.

if I go with 1. It seems tricky to plug in a tire warmer as there are no spare xt60 ports, and the only other way it seems is I need to use one of the main channels for this purchase which then minimizes my charging ability on race day.

if I go with 2., it’s more stuff I have to carry, and I’m not sure what power supply would need and if 12v or 24v would be required? Do you have any power supply recommendations? This would also mean the X5 and AD380 would be running off the power supply at outdoor races and the PS would be plugged into a generator.

A lot of ppl at my local race club go with option 1. , but I honestly don’t know how I would charge the tires in an external tire warmer through an icharger.

We currently race indoor on carpet, but soon we’ll head outdoors so wanna get my s**t together.

What option would you recommend and why?

Thanks

I use the Junsi iCharger 458 DUO with the RC Discharger to cycle two packs. For the tire warmers I run a smaller second power supply. Its more to carry but outdoors I set up an EZ-UP and use one pit table for my cars, tools, charger, etc. Then I have a small second pit table with the small power supply and several tire warmers (2-3 depending on what classes I'm running). I got the smaller power supply off eBay (D3dRP). Or you can buy the new Hudy mini power supply.

I would get an Icharger with the RCdischarger. Then just get another power supply to run the rest of your stuff.

The Icharger in particular has a very high balancing current and a proven charge / discharge algorithm. It's just kind of the way to go.

For starters, don't recreate the wheel, the reason most people use the iCharger is because they have proven their worth to thousands of racers around the world. Next, the RCdischarger just seems like unnecessary complexity and cost restricting your options.

Good news, the newer iCharger models, like the 456DUO, have an program option for programmable POWER output, offering adjustable Voltage and Amperage from Channel 1 or 2. So if you need only need to charge 1-battery at a time, use Channel 1 for charging, Channel 2 for power to your tire warmers. Another cool thing with the iCharger is that you can use it to charge Pb batteries (lead acid), so you can use your iCharger to charge a standard 12v automotive battery as well.

If you need two channels for charging, then you need either need a power supply with multiple outlets, like a Muchmore CTX-P for example, or a power distribution box like the Muchmore Power Supply Station Pro Multi-Distributor Box w/USB.

For discharging, get a standalone discharger, the ISDT FD200 or the Hitech/SkyRC AD380 or BD380 work well with the ISDT being limited to 25A discharge, the other two 40A at more than double the price and double the size. I mention a separate discharger as you can pull that out anytime you need to discharge those batteries you may have run out of time to discharge before leaving the track without having to pull out your power supply, wires, etc. Additionally, when you have a discharger failure, or a power supply failure, as you might encounter with the RCdischarger unit, you can replace just one thing and get back racing.

The RCdischarger is worth every penny if you’re serious about your racing results and the health of your batteries.

Your opinion would be more valuable with some details. Additionally, discuss if you view any pitfalls to having an all-in-one unit?

these are the details that you asked for. I’ve been using the RCdischarger for the past 8 months and I’ve seen consistent low ir in my batteries. If there’s a drawback it might be the upfront cost of the RCdischarger. Again it depends on how serious you are about your racing results and the health of your batteries if you’re willing to make the investment.

You have to discern the advantages of RCDischarger vs a power supply, not necessarily the advantages of high current discharging.

RCDischarger allows you to free up a bank you normally plug the shunt into because you are utilizing the regenerative current flow of the Icharger. It's pretty simple.

Not RC car guys but airplane and heli guys have made DIY setups for a long LONG time. Ever since 4010 came out. RCDischarger does market, package, 3D print, and come up with a really nice product but there isn't a component of an RCdischarger that is proprietary. It's a one stop and shop, all in one, all put together solution. A lot of racers use it and like it. In the broad spectrum of our hobby the pricing is fair for what you get.

Yep. I used to lug:

(2) Power Supplies $100 each
(2) iCharger Duo's $300 each
(2) Discharge Resistor Banks $100 each
Total - $1,000

Now I use:
(1) RC Discharger Off-Road $400
(1) iCharger Duo $300
Total - $700

Saved $300 and can cycle two packs up to 45a on both channels at the same time. Takes up less space and weight in pit bag. Better IR's and more importantly the charge cycles have higher capacity. Batteries do not get as hot as when using the resistor bank so last longer before replacement.

I've been using just my 4010 to charge and discharge and get .7-.9 internals pretty consistently. I do replace my batteries each year, but I think most do that if not more often. Never had any issues making an A main at any club race or national yet. I do use a warmer from DonathanRC if the track is cold, but not often.