I have a few 21.5t Helix RS, I run 21.5t blinky touring cars. One of the Helix 21.5t has done close to 400 packs in the last 15 or so months. Usually, I stick to ~48-49 degrees of timing with an FDR of anywhere between 3.4 and 3.7. The motor usually reaches 60-70 deg C (140 - 158 deg F). There was an occasion when the track temp was at 65 deg C (144 deg F) and I did not back off the timing nor the FDR. The max temp of the motor got to 95 deg C (203 deg F). The temps are from my ESC which stores the max temp.

I measure the rotor strength for each of my motors straight out of the box, and I have found that the rotors only lose a few percentage points of the magnetic strength (Guass) after a lot of runs under the conditions I have described. The motors still perform very well; in fact, there is no drop in performance, as seen from my Minipro dyno. One visible change is that the copper wire has turned to a purple-ish colour; however, there is no short, and the resistance numbers are comparable to when they were new.

This is just my experience, and your experience may vary.

Thats all good to know. I would think you would lose a bit more gauss when you hit 203*. I'm sure you had very little torque during those high temps. Have you ever checked the accuracy of your on-board temp sensor? I'm curious to know how accurate they are.

Hi Guys,

I have just purchased an fantom esc FR-10 pro 2 and a fantom 21.5 turn motor. I'm trying to get it all working but having trouble. See below. Any help would be appreciated.

ESC Set up

When I power on the power button goes red (reasonably quickly), then to a solid blue while I hold my finger on it, then stays on purple as I take my finger off.

I then press the throttle forward and the tires go forward and stay on. When I press reverse the tires continue to move in the forward direction.

I can then not turn the esc off by pressing the power button. Instead I need to take out the battery lead.


Download ESC

I have tried doing both, a) clicking the download button, b) scanning the QR code. Both do not work from web site.

I have allowed chrome to access location permissions.

I have gone into the phones system security, then 'installation sources' and checked the chrome button, to allow installation of apps.



Thank you.

I've had some issues here and there getting the first setup to start. But just keep trying. Make sure your transmitter doesnt have any trim in the throttle and the EPA is set to 100% on throttle and brakes. Make sure you arent touching it as you turn on the transmitter or ESC. Make sure you read the manual and follow it. Not being able to turn it off just means you're still in program mode so you're not doing something right. And thats easy to do, as you have to have proper timing for the initial programming.

https://fantomracing.com/mobile-apps/ Scanning this QR code with my android downloaded the app just fine. I did previously download it but I dont remember having issues.

Does anyone know the difference between the spec motors and the outlaw motors? Do they have the same stator, rotor, and can, but just use different wire windings?

WHAT’S DIFFERENT ABOUT THE HELIX OUTLAW MOTOR:

• Maximum Size We Can Fit (not ROAR legal),
• Pure Copper Wire for the Lowest Resistance Possible
• 12.5mm Modified Rotor

The rotors and stators are different. Somebody correct me if I am wrong. The biggest difference is the thickness of winding wires. The winding wires, of an Outlaw motor, is thicker than a ROAR certified spec motor. I am not 100% sure how the rotors compare, but the ROAR legal spec rotors are certified by ROAR. The outlaw motors will usually use a rotor from a modified motor.

I was able to get the software downloaded fine. That's a weird one and because phones aren't my forte, not a lot I can do to help. If you have a second browser, try that.

As far as programming, when I have issues, 90% it's on me. I've got something setup wrong. While it's a good idea to take your pinion off, when in programming mode, the motor should not spin. Sometimes I have to hold the button for what seems like longer than necessary to get it into the program mode where it'll beep at me.

Is this replacing an existing ESC or a new build? Check your trim, your EPA, etc. Make sure all your throttle baselines are zero/max to start.

Rotor and stator primarily. Bigger wire in the stator.
Correct

Any suggestions for a Helix RS 25.5 F1 setup on an avg sized carpet tack? I'm looking for timing / gearing to get me in the ballbark to tune from.

2.7fdr to 2.9 fdr to start on a medium track. Big tracks: 2.4fdr to 2.7fdr to start....Timing around 42* to 44*....

Question about the new Fantom V2 stock motors are they rpm based or torque based ?

They are just an evolution of the V1 Helix, so still mostly torque based. They are signifigantly better than the V1s thats for sure. Mine have been fast and run cool still. Im running a 31/72 on carpet if I remember right and I could really go up to 32 or 33 but I have only had limited testing/runing time.

From what I read somewhere on their website, the v2 comes with the torque rotor instead of the “mid” rotor that the v1 came with.

I think torque is 26mm and mid is 25mm...

I got a new iPhone several weeks ago and discovered the Fantom iPhone app is no longer in the Apple Store. I’ve got 3 fantom ESCs that I can’t adjust the settings on now. Does anyone have any idea when the app will be available again?