chjosi, what body are you running with that setup? I have always wondered about this setup, as it's close to what I had as a kid on my Parma California Sport Truck. (which was basically a fiberglass Pan car chassis with a slammed Chevy truck body)

Also looking at pan cars out today and the Atomic MRZ-SF has the Simple Frontend with a similar setup, and looks like a good transition between the MR03 and pan cars. Adjustable enough, but not so much as to overwhelm someone trying to adjust the fine setup adjustments the 1/28th scale pan cars have. It's hard enough to fine tune 1/10th scale cars, I don't know if I have the eyesight or steady enough hands to adjust on the tiny pan cars! Anyone try the MRZ-SF yet?

And it seams UPS has lost my Pkg with the 04 chassis small parts set and 04 Springs!!! So another call to H.T. as the UPS virtual assistant said H.T. needs to contact them to start whatever process it will take to figure it out! Should have just had it sent Priority! It actually would have gotten here at much cheaper cost!

McLaren 12C. 1.5 offset fronts and 2 offset rears.

I ran a buddy's MRZ-SF yesterday as well. It was setup for an open 2500kv lipo class some are trying to get started. It ran pretty well for him just throwing it together and me never driving one before. Easiest way to explain it, its average lap times were the same as the fastest laps of a fully built 5500 AAA car. Easy to drive just like my Schumacher E5 was out of the box.

Great to hear it fits under a 12C! That's a pretty low body. I like how using that style front end allows you to change springs without having to unscrew either the front clip or the upper arm! those tiny e clips sux to work with but a bag of them is alot cheaper than a new chassis or arm kit. Interested to see how it works for you! I'm just now trying the Inner Tube Front end on my 90mm, dry so far but it's less bouncy even dry. I like tinkering, so maybe I'll try the spring over arm setup next! I worry about the Inner Tube suspension gumming up with rubber dust with the amount that these cars generate when using oil/grease! The tolerances in those tiny parts is close. This is my MX-5 after 75 laps on this months Mini96WC layout CCW with PN KS fronts and KS-M rears. I cleaned the body and chassis just before this run and vacuumed the track a few weeks ago!

And I removed alot of dust picking the car up off the track. If ya look close you can see the clean finger tip shaped voids on the door.


Sounds like the MRZ-SF worked well! It looks easy to build/work on, at least compared to most of the 1/28th kits out there.

After calling H.T. first thing this morning they reshipped my 04 parts and HOPEFULLY they will be here tomorrow! Come on UPS!

My preference for the inner tube dampers was to run dry. The tolerances are super tight, that you get effective damping without grease. If you do want to use a substance, I would start with just a little shock oil rather than grease.

Thanks EMU! I was thinking the same thing about running it dry. I do have about 6 different "weights" of Shock oil to try starting with 20, but it does quite well as is. I just started with the Green springs out of the Soft and Short set, and so far so good. My MX-5 is smooth and straight up rips around the current layout of the Mini96WC! The back end will skip out from underneath itself if I over power it in tight turns, but that is just the loose nut behind the wheel! I know it is capable of faster lap times in the hands of a driver like you and other super fast and steady guys here! Also it looks like yall were having a great time in those videos you posted! Big track racing seems to be chaotic but less intense than running the Mini96, seems like you have a bit more time to breath and blink! Hopefully I'll have some time to get to the track in Leander (about a hour and a half from my house but 20 minutes from my Son's house) or the Local Hobby Town will set theirs up, so I can give big track racing a try! Really open up my ProStock!

I also talked to HobbyTown at 8am Monday morning, and they filed a claim for a lost pkg and resent me a new pkg! UPS actually shows it in their system and it will be here today by 5pm. Fingers crossed!!! so I should have my 04 up and running this evening!!! YEA

Hey guys, I’m running a standard front with pn low down knuckles, with med/hard springs no oil or grease on the kingpins and it works great.
Drew I had a Parma fiberglass pan car too , I’m putting together one of OBRC‘s printed chassis’s with Berat and they have a simple front end too, I’m really excited to try one of those chassis’s, take care guy’s and any Floridains keep you head down and god speed. Later Walt

Got my 04 together, and updated the above post to list the differences I found, but I am having 1 issue. It either has all or nothing when going in reverse no matter what I have the Reverse Rate set at. Forward adjusts as normal with the Forward D/R (trigger pull vs. motor RPM) but I can adjust the Reverse D/R anywhere from 100 to 7% and there is almost no discernable difference in RPM from 0-100% pull of the trigger! Below 7% Reverse won't even activate.

I've double checked my solder connections, Sensor wire connection, ICS Settings, and nothing has helped! I know I could just stay off the walls so no reverse needed, but that $hit aint happening! Any Ideas??? I dont have another Sensored motor, but I do have a Rocket 5500Kv Non-Sensored motor to try.

The Board, Motor, and Sensor wire came for Kenon, so maybe try calling/emailing them?

Pics to come tomorrow!

Still working on my 04, and I still haven't got the full throttle reverse figured out, but I had a thought.

If this was a non-sensored motor, I could switch the forward and reverse wires and see if it still doing it in the other direction, but is this possible on a sensored motor?

On a plus side the pkg UPS lost last week got here today, so I was able to use the plastic shims out of the extra chassis small parts set I got in. So I was able to get the ride height where I want it! I also added tungsten putty to the battery channels. Where the 03 holds 2.5g per side, the 04 only holds 1.8g.

Here's the pics

Yes.

Thanks chjosi! I was worried about burning something out hooking it up wrong!

I just tried swapping the + wires around and the motor just quickly stuttered in forward and nothing in reverse, then I swapped back and back to the way it was, full reverse no matter the trigger amount.

Is this right?

I haven't messed with a MR04 yet, but I know Poor_Boy has.

Thanks chjosi, this is my first sensored brushless so I am learning on the FLY! I don't know what the deal is yet, but this thing is STUPID FAST! I have it geared 11/53 and I have the throttle D/R at 36%! I switched from a 12C to my Green Jomu. and have N20mm +2 w/KSK LH40* and 14mm 0 w/KS Soft Radials. It's STEERING is VERY SMOOTH but still very fast. The steering D/R is at 82%, and i have a few different tire sets to try too.
It is light, but being the 04 the chassis is flatter so it doesn't hold as much ballast weight underneath 1.8g per battery channel and 5g in the pocket in front of the power switch of Tungsten Putty, then a 2.5g stick on weight on top of the carbon front clip. For a total of 11.1g added to get the chassis to 98g no body or batteries. Where my Stock chassis (PN2.5 w/03 EVO board) is 110g. With the same body my 04 Stock chassis I can push very hard with just the slightest hint of TR, but the 04 will roll in the high speed 90* if I'm not super smooth with the inputs.

HOPEFULLY PN will get some 04 Low Down Knuckles made SOON! To get the front ride height where I want it (just under 2mm on 20mm wheels and Low Height PN tires) I had to use 2-1mm shims under each knuckle! The MR04 comes with 3 pairs of height adjustment shims 2- 0.35mm, 2- 0.5mm, and 2- 1.0mm, plastic of course and I snapped a 0.5mm shim cutting them off the parts tree! Shimming that much under the knuckle angles the upper arm up a lot compared to my 03s, so if I understand it, that is going to create a different Roll Center between the 2 chassis. Possibly causing it to roll easier??? My Lexan roof Jomu. will be for the MR04, and the reduced weight up top should help a lot with TR, but I have to finish painting it first! Here's a pic comparing the 04 (left) vs. 03-2.5W(right) front end with the same ride height. Aprox 1.9mm



I also have a PN V3 94/98mm motor pod I can swap out for the Multi-Mount pod to get more of the weight down low. The most of Multi-Mount's structure (weight) is above the motor, where the V3's weight is under the motor. Also with the V3 I can adjust the damper arm to maybe mount the damper plate lower without the Dual Spring center shock mount plate as a riser. I also have a PN 2.5W chassis I can change over too. It's a fun new chassis to tinker with!

Emailed with Kenon today, and they said it sounds like the board is bad, but to make sure it's not the motor they suggested I put the sensored motor into one of my 03EVOs and see if forward and reverse work, and if they do it confirms it's the board, then to contact Kyosho for warranty claim. If it's the motor they will cover it. Hopefully it's the motor, as I don't want to have to pull the board! I have a bad feeling it's the board as everywhere I read said the 04 is slow compared to the 03. But my 04 with a 5500kv I have to run at 36% forward d/r, where my 03 with a 5500kv I run at 65%, so if that's a clue I'm FUBAR!

How is Kyosho's warranty to work with? Do they cover shipping? If not it will be almost the same price as to buy a new board! If that's the case I will run it as is till it burns up , as it's not too bad as it just spins the ball diff when I reverse!

On a side note with gearing. would it be better to run my gearing as is at 11/53 and my forward d/r at 36% or got to a 11/52 or 11/51 and raise mt d/r to match? or is it the same either way?

Thanks Guys and Hope all are safe!!! Drew

Update: I pulled the Anima5500kv out of my 04 and put it into my 03EVO, and it works perfectly! So that confirms it's the board, also in the 03 the Anima5500kv I run the throttle D/R at 65% just like the Rocket 5500kv, but in the 04 the Anima is a handful at 36%. I shot short videos, first of the 04/Anima, next the 03/PN3500kv, last the 03/Anima, and sent the 04/Anima combo to Kyosho America support, so hope to hear back soon.

Also the above comment about shipping was my thinking it would be going to and coming from Japan, DUHH me probably coming from Kyosho America.

Either way, I plan on keeping the Kyosho 04 chassis for a while, as it nice, but it's HARD to find places to add weight! It very light feeling on the track compared to my 03EVO/PN chassis which is 10g+ heavier. If I can't get used to the feel, I'll switch the 04 into a PN2.5W, which I have laying around.

So guys been running mini Z for quite a while now I run box stock, RM spec, AAA 3500, Kyosho 5600kv, and lip stock. I recently purchased a mr04, car is built on a pn 2.5 chassis with pn v4 frontend, and pn rear pod. Car bound up fine to my noble nb4 fine, steering works properly, but I have no throttle at all, the car has pn sensor wire and pn 3500kv motor installed. I wired the motor exactly as the directions stated. I don’t have any kyosho sensored motors so cant test with one, but I did pull motor out and tested with my gl 1.2 esc and motor works fine. Any help with this would be much appreciated. Or a direction to go for testing.

thanks