check all your fuel line and tank for pressure. Is your bottom end rich? Is it loading up when you come in pit lane then go out and it’s loaded up and flaming out? Or like are you filling it going up stand then start driving when you get back on stand and flaming out. Maybe it loaded up. Idle low?
hows the compression, when engines start losing compression they don’t idle as good. Not sure what you’ve tried figured I’d post a couple things to check.

When asking for help diagnosing tuning issues details are critical. Please let us know your HS and LS needle settings (from flush with ends of the housing i.e 1/2 turn in from flush), idle gap, plug type and engine operating temp range. Most likely though I'm guessing that as you are saying this only happens on the very first lap out your engine is probably just loading up and flaming out because it's not up to operating temp yet combined with a too rich LS setting. Let me know the info that I asked about above and I can give you more specific suggestions.

I finally got my B6 running great at the track today. It had been cutting out at random no matter what the tune, so I replaced the fuel tubing, plug, and tank. Still no good, same behavior. I even threw the Pro II carb on it from my spare B6 that I haven't broken in yet. Still having issues.

Then it hit me... Bad fuel. I got a fresh can and all the problems went away. I was consistently getting 10 minute tanks and was about to go for 4 or 5 without any issues and great performance. Lesson learned. Don't forget to try fresh fuel.

Now that I've got good fuel for it this engine is a beast. I qualified 5th tonight and finish 3rd.

Thanks for the update, glad that you got the issue figured out! Bad or contaminated fuel is not one that you would quickly expect to be the cause of tuning issues. However especially if you live in high humidity locations make sure to securely cap off your fuel jugs and even better is to squeeze out the air in the bottle before capping (kind of like you may do with a 2lite soda bottle before putting it back in the fridge).

Last week I replaced the front bearing on my B6 with a ceramic Ruddog one and it's running better than every. The idle is more stable and it's easier to tune. I must've had some kind of issue there in addition to the bad fuel.

I had a great day of racing. 15 minutes of B main action, bumped up to the A, and gained 5 places during those 25 minutes. It was extremely hot today, and in the B main the fuel economy wasn't great, but that's because it was much too rich. Went half a turn in on the HSN for the A main and had no problems and even more power.

I just purchased a new B6 pro 2. It has a carb on it with a horizontal high speed needle. Anyone know what the deal with the carb is? On amain and on werks website it shows it with a carb that has a regular high speed needle. The horizontal needle seems like its gonna be difficult to access any time the vehicle has a body on it. I heard that may be the reason reds stopped using the horizontal high speed needle? IDK im a noob lol.

That's normal. I'm running it on my B6 and it works well - easy to tune. Like Ron says, it's completely different from the Reds carb. Amain just hasn't updated the pictures.

Thanks for the reply! I am still trying to learn my way around the site. I just read through the thread a little and see its been brought up a couple times. I wasn't actually sure if the pro 2 was even the same thing as the regular B6, so I just posted to see what response I would get lol.

I have another random question about the Werks engines and not just the B6 in general. What are the round tube looking bumps on the block/case? Are they just internal air passages? I never noticed them till I had the B6 in hand. Then I started looking at some blocks/cases from other manufacturers, and didn't notice the "tubes" on any other cases.

Thanks for picking up one of our engines! As frewster mentioned previously the HHSN carburetor is something that we developed in house and that we have made standard on all of the Pro 2 engines. The performance of the new carb design is excellent so please give it a shot! In regards to your questions about our case design and the tubes that we have molded into the side of the case that protrude (stick) out. Those do indeed serve a purpose and that is actually is two fold:


A) It allows us to machine deeper channels on the inner side of the case on both sides to better direct/channel the air/fuel mixture in the transfer ports.


B) The primary benefit though is that metal expands when heated and when heated different metals expand at different rates. More specifically in these RC engines the case is made of aluminum and the sleeve is brass. Aluminum expands more than brass when heated. So when an rc engine heats up the case/sleeve fit traditionally loosens as the aluminum case expands more than the brass sleeve. Nothing good comes from that happening as for example it can allow the sleeve to vibrate in the case, creating brass micro particles that get in the engine increasing wear. The case can expand unevenly which can put tension on the sleeve and compromise the piston/sleeve fit etc. etc. etc. The tubes we molded into our cases increase material thickness in the case specifically around the sleeve and allow us to better control thermal expansion in order to maintain an optimal case/sleeve fit.


Hope that helps!

The B6 will be going into an Xray XB8. I want to purchase the xray monoblock engine mount. However, there are 2 different mounts. One for Picco, Reds, Orion, LRP, and OS and one for FX, nova, MAX, and Siro engines. Anyone know which one would be needed for a werks engine? I have not seen engine specific mounts for any other kits. I have a monoblock engine mount in a losi 8ight, and I have had a nova and an LRP on the same mount without any issues. So I am a little confused.

Honestly I'm a little confused by that too as I also have never seen an engine specific engine mount, they are usually universal!

The stock mount is universal. Only thing the manual mentions is that the rear center driveshaft may contact the block on the mounting hole flange. So it may need trimmed. They dont mention any manufacturers tho.

I would contact Xray and find out what the actual difference is. If you do, let us know what it is!

Good point! I am just returning from the hobby from a looooooong break, and finding info has been a struggle! I went ahead and called to see if I could get an answer to document, but I didn't get a very clear answer. The man at RCAmerica kinda agreed that most mounts are universal and he has heard of people mounting different brands with one xray mount. However he is confident in Xray that they have a reason for having 2 different mounts. When finds are available I will be buying the mount and seeing if itll work.

I have another engine related question. I mounted the flywheel and clutch on the engine, and I noticed that there is some lateral crankshaft play. Is this normal? I tried pulling the crank slightly and pushing the collet to the base before tightening everything down, but that didnt really change anything. Its less than a mm of play, but there is for sure some movement.