So I just bought my first upgraded transmitter - Flysky Noble NB4 and I’m using the included FGr4s receiver - I drive an E-Revo 2.0 with dual servos and that’s my issue - I don’t know how to set it up in the transmitter to recognize the dual servo setup.

I have one servo plugged into channel 1 on the receiver, and I’ve tried plugging the other servo into channel 2 and the ESC in channel 3, and swapping the second servo and ESC channels (ESC into channel 2 and servo into 3) - no matter what I do, the servo plugged into channel 1 works just fine, but the other servo doesn’t move when I turn the steering wheel.

I’ve searched for the answer for hours, and I’m sure it’s something obvious that I’m missing but I’m out of ideas on what to look for. Any help offered would be appreciated.

I almost forgot - the servos I’m using are Banggood specials DSSERVO 25kg digital servos and I’m using the stock ESC that came with the car - VXL-6S

Thanks in advance.

Nate

ESC should be in channel 2.

Have you set the channel mixing? That may be why you're not getting motion on a servo connected to ch3. There's may not be a signal on that without setting it up.

--Alex

Correct - Typically steering is CH1 / ESC is CH2.

Plug your 2nd servo into CH3, then read your manual section on Mixes.
CH1 is your Master and CH3 is your slave, activate the mix and adjust the throw of your CH3 slave to match your CH1 master.

I could have sworn you can assign "steering" output to other channels within the Receiver /RX setup menu on the Noble NB4 without needing to fuss with mixing. I won't be home until much later tonight but I'll confirm if I was correct or simply confused later on.

So why not just buy a Y harness and plug both servos into the harness and the end into the channel 1 on rx making sure the wires are the same color to color and plugged correctly

Not sure if you still need help as you haven't posted but I did end up checking my radio. I could have sworn the NB4 let you set trigger/steering output to other channels. In any event, with the lastest software version here is how you go about doing what you specifically want:

Go to the mixes option (no, you won't have to set slave mixing) and choose the "4W" steering option. From there, choose your secondary steering output channel and then towards the bottom, you can choose what type of steering function you want. Now, you may be confused as you will notice that it appears the mixing is for 4 wheel steer vehicles but don't worry about that. You will need to choose the "same phase" steering though it won't be worded that way. Basically, just look at the diagram and choose the steering where the wheels point in the same direction or whatever setting you actually need when doing your test run.

The main reason you'd want to go about using this setup is that you can adjust the Sub-Trim on that secondary channel independently. That will allow you to center the servo horn exactly where you need it so the dual steering works uniformly. Afterwards, you can mimic the EPA on both servos so they both have the same travel. This is much easier than having to adjust links to get the steering throws to match.

You could TECHNICALLY use the mixing option where you setup a slave output channel but I think that takes more time to set properly but that's just me. This is much easier than it sounds btw; in terms of using a "Y" harness to run two servos off one channel, you can definitely go that route but due to the radio you have you'd be doing yourself a disservice. When using a Y harness, you can't set your servo sub-trim independently which is a big deal in a dual steering setup. Also, why have the extra unnecessary cable clutter?

I guess for unnecessary clutter stand point but for myself I feel its way easier to just put the Y harness in and connect the servos vs going thru all the radio stuff, but their again I don't do much with any of the high tech radios out their other than epa and servo reversing, just have this thing about reading a manual for 80 pages before it tells you to turn it on and push this button and that one to get to a screen that you might never use again, so long live the shrink wrap and zip tie but this is a opinion from someone who races cars for better than 30 years