I would like to say it would be more noticeable on carpet as it's usually more hooked up as far as grip. You would be surprised what you would be able to notice from a body change if you have a chance at the track to swap it back to back for different lids.

Well vta I've never really noticed a change with different body shells, also my favorite class because many different body shells can be competitive. Usgt I feel is much like TC where a body shell can make all the difference when hunting for that hidden tenth of a second you keep getting walled by.

Finally started building my car today, using an XRAY T4 chassis. Due to "other things needing to get done", after finishing all the prep work, I only had enough time to get the first two steps done. With the exception of electronics, should have the chassis finished by Friday. It still has a ways to go...but it's finally getting there.

Very nice start to your build....Keep it up....

Not having owned anything newer than a T4 17, so I have to ask, is that spur gear assembly in backwards? On the 17, the screw heads would be on the other side.....the side for the short belt. Just asking

You are correct. It was also caught, about 4 hours earlier, by someone in the XRAY thread. As I told him, the image in the manual is small enough that it can sometimes be difficult to tell. In cases like that, I usually use a flashlight. I thought I was correct, so didn't grab the flashlight...and I wasn't. It's corrected now - proceeding to step 3.

No problem - just wanted to let you know before you got too far along and had to take it back apart. The manual is actually a bit confusing, at the 17' version is. In one step it's pictured facing a certain direction, then in the very next step it's showing it to be installed turned the other way. For simplicity reasons, why wouldn't you illustrate it the same way in both references to minimize confusion. Enjoy the build!

Greatly appreciated...and, as for the confusion, I completely understand. When I was building my TLR 22 5.0 SR, the manual includes two slightly different build variations - one for the DC, and the other for the SR. With the DC version, you go straight through the manual. However, with the SR build, you start on page 43, completing steps A1 through A4 (page 44), then jump to step B1 on page 11, building up through step F4 (page 21). After that, you head to page 45 (step F5), and continue building through step H11 on page 60. Now, THAT'S confusing.

We just recently ran the CTS Round 4 race at our track....Jarrett Parsons - P-Zero with the TQ and win, Dave Franklin - Exotek R-Tek - 2nd, and I finished 3rd with a PFM-10. Though the body certainly didn't hurt, Jarrett's car was dialed on our low-med grip track and with those tires, that can be difficult to do. To me that was the clear difference all weekend.

Our track is large and sweeping too and I've run the PFM-10 twice, once on my own car and another time recently when I borrowed Dave Franklin's car at a ROAR Regionals race (same track) and haven't finished lower than 3rd. I think the PFM-10 works quite well on that type of track. I have used the PF vette there and it didn't really suit me.