Wholesale and friends in right places

Then why not just buy the new B6.1?

I am happy with it just the way it is for now. May not do anything to be honest. Car is good enough to win on carpet and dirt. Time will tell what I do. It comes down to preparation and driving. I got a awesome deal on the car.

I read somewhere that using B5(or was it B5M?) rear arms on a B6 shortens the wheelbase.
Has anybody here done this?

Yes, the B5 (rear motor) arms shorten the wheelbase around 2mm. We used this a lot on outdoor dirt, helps a lot with rear traction. But keep in mind they are only designed for shock rear (there are no shock mounting holes for shocks forward).

Ray

Didn't think of that, almost ordered a pair of b5 arms.

Is the new shock tower on the B6.1 a direct bolt on replacement for the B6? Does geometry change at all?

The front tower will bolt on, but I believe the upper holes are shifted in one spot on the gull-wing tower. The rear tower is different to match the new gearbox heights.

Thanks, it was the front one I was asking about, my bad for not being specific.

Does the B6.1 and B6 use the same steering and casterblocks?

(can I use these on my B6?)
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...eering_blocks/

for sure. Those are same parts as before except new steering block 3/4 (don't know what block was stock), but now are packed together with different part number

To use the 6.1 rear hubs. Do you need the new axle ? Got the rear arms already.

Pretty sure yes. I think you could use the old cvd bone since the new axle has holes for both but you would need that axle

Can anyone explain to me what changing the rear shock eyelets from 'short' to 'long' would do in terms of driving characteristics?
I've always run the short eyelets on both sides because it was easier to get to low ride heights that way with the V1 springs, but with the V2 springs this is no longer an issue, hence my question.