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Old 07-20-2018 | 03:40 PM
  #46636  
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My Orion charger will only go up to 12A, so that’s what I do
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Old 07-22-2018 | 12:22 PM
  #46637  
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I'm not fully happy with the noise the spool makes. When running the diff, the assembly creates a little play which is crucial to the correct match between pinion and spur... with the spool and the spur gear screwed down there is no play left, and the coupling become noisy... how do you solve that?

Last edited by Flygio; 07-23-2018 at 12:17 AM.
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Old 07-22-2018 | 07:31 PM
  #46638  
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Originally Posted by Flygio
I'm not fully satisfied with the noise the spool makes. When running the diff, the assembly creates a little play which is crucial to the correct match between pinion and spur... with the spool and the spur gear screwed down there is no play left, and the coupling become noisy... how do you solve that?
We are using Quality Spurs and pinions from Xenon and axon. This will make sure that the mesh between the spur and pinion is as consistent as it gets. Furthermore check the mesh on throughout the whole spur and adjust it if necessary.

BTW; We are running 1/12 mod and have not experienced this issue.
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Old 07-22-2018 | 08:38 PM
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This works well. The shoulder screws let the spur float the same way it does on the diff balls. Significantly reduces noise.
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Old 07-23-2018 | 12:14 AM
  #46640  
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I'm running mod with xenon / axon gears as well, but the mesh is nowhere near efficient as the ball diff with same gears. Maybe those shoulder screws would solve that, giving that little play
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Old 07-24-2018 | 06:31 AM
  #46641  
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Originally Posted by Flygio
I'm not fully happy with the noise the spool makes. When running the diff, the assembly creates a little play which is crucial to the correct match between pinion and spur... with the spool and the spur gear screwed down there is no play left, and the coupling become noisy... how do you solve that?
Take a jewelers file, and make the holes your screws go through a touch bigger. Problem solved.
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Old 07-24-2018 | 03:09 PM
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I have been running f1 are they about the same as a 1/12 scale been thinking about getting in to 1/12 scale just want to learn more about it first
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Old 07-24-2018 | 08:54 PM
  #46643  
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I have done the opposite and am now running f1 in addition to mod 1/12th. They are quite different due to the very different wheelbase. An f1 needs to square up before a corner...a 1/12th dives right into a corner. A 1/12 Scale is much more nimble, and possibly tiny setup changes make a larger difference. I think you’ll find a 1/12th a little “twitchy” at first. But, persevere ...1/12th is the best there is.
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Old 07-25-2018 | 05:49 AM
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For 17.5 1/12th scale on medium to larger tracks is it true that no one is really running any brakes at all or using them in the corners? If so, are you setting any drag brake in the speed control? What setup changes are you making to the car to get it to rotate quickly through the corners?
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Old 07-25-2018 | 06:32 AM
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In my 17.5 Destiny car the only time I use my push brake is if there is a tight °180 at the end of the straight or some similar corner. As for drag brake I have 4% on my hobbywing esc. I am now running a locked axle setup and have not changed any of the esc settings yet.
Now for setup it will depend on the chassis and option parts you are running. Best I can suggest is to find a setup sheet that corresponds to your track conditions and car that was made by "one of the fast guys". Or post what your current equipment and setup are and I'm sure you will get plenty of feedback here.

Edit: I also have the push brake turned WAY down on my radio. I don't have an actual number currently since I am at work.
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Old 07-25-2018 | 09:51 AM
  #46646  
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Originally Posted by Flygio
I'm running mod with xenon / axon gears as well, but the mesh is nowhere near efficient as the ball diff with same gears. Maybe those shoulder screws would solve that, giving that little play
I don't know what to say, my mesh is perfect with the spool. Do you have the gear sitting on a bearing anyway? Even though the bearing isn't turning it still centers the gear on the spool.
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Old 07-25-2018 | 09:54 AM
  #46647  
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since i learned i was driving 12th wrong, it's been a while since i've braked during a race unless i know i just overshot a corner to hell
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Old 07-25-2018 | 12:02 PM
  #46648  
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On black carpet with 17.5, I find that I barely flick off just prior to apexes and smash it back on for the first 45 seconds or so. Then it's full clamp for the next 7 minutes. I can not say that drag brake is even relevant anymore. Push brake is only in play if something needs to avoided/corrected. I can not say that I enjoy the current black carpet throttle strategy these days. Might just be me though.

13.5 has just a little more throttle control, but it's pretty much full smashed at 5 min. Mod uses the entire trigger.
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Old 07-25-2018 | 12:46 PM
  #46649  
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Like Brian, I just blip off the throttle on corner entry and then right back to full wood. As the top comes off the battery I don’t even lift fully....just breathe the trigger slightly. And also like him, I prefer running a motor that’s fast enough to require some finesse with the trigger. But these days 17.5 is where it’s at in 1/12th scale and the car’s work so well that full wood driving is not all that unusual. To my mind, that’s clear indication that we should be running more motor. Still, if one wants to race, one must accept the will of the majority.......so we soldier on with 17.5s.
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Old 07-25-2018 | 03:55 PM
  #46650  
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Thanks for the input guys. I need to find out what I am doing wrong or where I have the car set up wrong. The last time I ran it I was using brakes in some of the corners, but still being new at it I very easily could have just been driving that horribly. I know your lines have to be very precise to be fast in 1/12th scale.
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