710LikesTeam Associated RC10B64 Thread
05-17-2018 | 03:37 PM
#3541
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 4,610
From: Vancouver, Washington
You need pliers that work for external snap rings. The ones I got are made in the US by channel lock. They can do both inner and outer snap rings. Also, stretch the ring a little before trying to put it on. The 3/8 is really tight, but seems to be the right one. Also, my pliers MIN size is 3/8, because of that the angle at which the pins enter the ring are at an angle that I dont care for. I would get a pliers designed for smaller snap rings and make sure it does external.
Look into these. The are designed for smaller snap rings. The ones i got a bigger and more of a pain, but work well. They make a nice tool.
https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-9.../dp/B001B82G16
Look into these. The are designed for smaller snap rings. The ones i got a bigger and more of a pain, but work well. They make a nice tool.
https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-9.../dp/B001B82G16
05-17-2018 | 11:16 PM
#3542
I encounter a lil problem and am lost what the problem is.with the car on ground,I turn left from the radio and let go of the wheel on the radio it doesn't really center and looks like more toe in on one side.but when I put the car in the air on the car stand it centers and tires are evenly on both sides, when I let go of the wheel on the radio.i made sure the turnbuckle were same size,camber and toe adjustments were made and steering assembly swings freely when detached from servo and I even tried another servo and same problem.sorry for the long thread,tried my best to describe the problem I'm having.any help would be greatly appreciated.
05-18-2018 | 10:09 AM
#3544
05-20-2018 | 08:27 PM
#3548
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 77
This is the new V2 steering rack:
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...rack_aluminum/
You will need the parts it suggests in the description as well. Or you can just get the regular aluminum one and upgrade later:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c92103/p633318
The only other part that I've upgraded from stock is the front shock tower. I went with the Schelle 4mm thick tower:
B64 Extreme Front Tower
Everything besides the front tower and steering rack is bone stock on my car and after a year and a half I've broken 2 front arms, one front shock tower (the original one), and a set of wing mounts.
Only other thing I've seen others break consistently is the spur gear. Some people suggest an aluminum or carbon fiber center diff brace. Others use the exotek HD spur gear. I would just run your car as is and see if you have any issues.
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...rack_aluminum/
You will need the parts it suggests in the description as well. Or you can just get the regular aluminum one and upgrade later:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c92103/p633318
The only other part that I've upgraded from stock is the front shock tower. I went with the Schelle 4mm thick tower:
B64 Extreme Front Tower
Everything besides the front tower and steering rack is bone stock on my car and after a year and a half I've broken 2 front arms, one front shock tower (the original one), and a set of wing mounts.
Only other thing I've seen others break consistently is the spur gear. Some people suggest an aluminum or carbon fiber center diff brace. Others use the exotek HD spur gear. I would just run your car as is and see if you have any issues.
Parts are on their way now
05-22-2018 | 07:29 PM
#3552
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 77
This is a capture of kit instruction manual on rear hub build. I accidentally build mine using a marked red position instead of manual setup.
What is the difference between my setup and manual setup in terms of rear end grip?
Thanks for sharing
What is the difference between my setup and manual setup in terms of rear end grip?
Thanks for sharing
05-23-2018 | 05:26 AM
#3553
Tech Master
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,314
From: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, England
Rule of thumb:- Higher the grip the longer the link length (although a lot of other things effect this from a roll-centre perspective obviously).
05-24-2018 | 07:01 PM
#3554
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 77
In theory your rear should roll faster but not as far and with a little more camber gain. This will result in a rear that is a little more locked in and less likely to give free rotation. If you're on very high grip you might find the car is a little less stable wanting to traction roll when pushed hard on power and break-away a little more under hard brakes.
Rule of thumb:- Higher the grip the longer the link length (although a lot of other things effect this from a roll-centre perspective obviously).
Rule of thumb:- Higher the grip the longer the link length (although a lot of other things effect this from a roll-centre perspective obviously).