Ah, makes sense in conjunction with an EPA adjustment. Thanks!

• anybody else having a hard time pulling up spencer rivkins 13.5 from stock nats this pass month from Team Associated B64 & B64D Setup Sheets
• or does one know where I can find it? Curious to try it out

There are only 2 tracks i race
1. Dry, dusty, loose, low traction
2. Hard pack, damp, dusty, medium traction
Which brand of wheels are the most suitable for my condition?
Since i am a budget racer, could anyone suggest a must upgrades or options for my tracks?
Thank you for any suggestions

Brand of wheels doesn't matter much. People have their personal favorites, but it's hard to find a bad wheel these days. I use DE speedline wheels and have no issues with them on tracks similar to what you described.

Only must have part is an aluminum steering rack for durability over the plastic one. They just released a new version, so make sure you get the one that best matches your needs.

First, on the B64 the kit steering geometry is terrible (dull and slow in the corners), so I run the Type 1 or Type 3 Schelle steering arms. Type 1 if there is lots of 180s, Type 3 if there is smooth sweeping turns. With either of these, the front top deck makes the car more predictable, less likely to hook in turns...it just carrys a nice arc. You have to swap the steering arms to get any real steering from the 4wd.

For the rear top deck, it really frees up the car, so you have to dial in some more rear grip softening the suspension since the chassis is more rigid.... BUT you can carry more overall speed through turns.

When you installed V2 rack and WC carbon plate, it changed toe angle. Mine looks like toe out bit when I put ballstud inside as picture. I have no toe gage and bad eyeball, can someone confirm. If changed what length turnbuckle should be to stock set up which is 0. Thanks.

Thanks Krio
I tried to look the new version streering rack but with no luck
Could you please tell me the part number for it?
Also is there any other parts that is a MUST to replace with options for durability and performance wise?

#92104 V2 steering rack

I encounter a lil problem and am lost what the problem is.with the car on ground,I turn left from the radio and let go of the wheel on the radio it doesn't really center and looks like more toe in on one side.but when I put the car in the air on the car stand it centers and tires are evenly on both sides, when I let go of the wheel on the radio.i made sure the turnbuckle were same size,camber and toe adjustments were made and steering assembly swings freely when detached from servo and I even tried another servo and same problem.sorry for the long thread,tried my best to describe the problem I'm having.any help would be greatly appreciated.

This is the new V2 steering rack:
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...rack_aluminum/
You will need the parts it suggests in the description as well. Or you can just get the regular aluminum one and upgrade later:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c92103/p633318

The only other part that I've upgraded from stock is the front shock tower. I went with the Schelle 4mm thick tower:
B64 Extreme Front Tower

Everything besides the front tower and steering rack is bone stock on my car and after a year and a half I've broken 2 front arms, one front shock tower (the original one), and a set of wing mounts.

Only other thing I've seen others break consistently is the spur gear. Some people suggest an aluminum or carbon fiber center diff brace. Others use the exotek HD spur gear. I would just run your car as is and see if you have any issues.

I ditched the rear brace. Didn't like how numb the car felt. Feels too flexy as well.

I was hoping someone would bring this up so I didn't have to search. Thanks. When doing this mod what type of snap ring pliers are needed? or will any small cheapos do the trick? I got rid of the uber awesome XRAY tool when I switched back to Yokomo/AE.

Not as big of a deal on primes as they would be positrons. Believe me I know. one too many beers before mounting tires.

You need pliers that work for external snap rings. The ones I got are made in the US by channel lock. They can do both inner and outer snap rings. Also, stretch the ring a little before trying to put it on. The 3/8 is really tight, but seems to be the right one. Also, my pliers MIN size is 3/8, because of that the angle at which the pins enter the ring are at an angle that I dont care for. I would get a pliers designed for smaller snap rings and make sure it does external.


Look into these. The are designed for smaller snap rings. The ones i got a bigger and more of a pain, but work well. They make a nice tool.