25LikesTEAM ASSOCIATED DB8
03-29-2018 | 12:47 PM
#106
Good grief. I'm at over $300 just for FT chassis, chassis braces, cage, body, tires, driver figure, and bumpers, body mounts, & hexes. Not counting all the different length screws needed. Better off finding a roller deal somebody needs to get rid of. Or turn this thing into something else.
03-29-2018 | 01:09 PM
#107
Tech Fanatic
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 946
From: Finland
Good grief. I'm at over $300 just for FT chassis, chassis braces, cage, body, tires, driver figure, and bumpers, body mounts, & hexes. Not counting all the different length screws needed. Better off finding a roller deal somebody needs to get rid of. Or turn this thing into something else.
03-29-2018 | 01:13 PM
#108
I'd make a proper for sale post, but here's mine. It's obviously been wet, but I'd go through the diffs and take picture after making a post in the for sale section.
I have the rest of the parts, the body currently has custom green panels, but I'm about 98% certain I still have stock tan panels in good condition.
I would also clp the axles and screws if you wanted.
I have the rest of the parts, the body currently has custom green panels, but I'm about 98% certain I still have stock tan panels in good condition.
I would also clp the axles and screws if you wanted.
03-29-2018 | 01:31 PM
#109
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 109
From: Mississippi
I'd make a proper for sale post, but here's mine. It's obviously been wet, but I'd go through the diffs and take picture after making a post in the for sale section.
I have the rest of the parts, the body currently has custom green panels, but I'm about 98% certain I still have stock tan panels in good condition.
I would also clp the axles and screws if you wanted.
I have the rest of the parts, the body currently has custom green panels, but I'm about 98% certain I still have stock tan panels in good condition.
I would also clp the axles and screws if you wanted.
03-29-2018 | 01:42 PM
#110
03-29-2018 | 01:55 PM
#111
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 109
From: Mississippi
03-29-2018 | 01:58 PM
#112
It will be much, much cheaper as is without electronics. Like $125. That's without my going through everything and using clp and stuff.
03-29-2018 | 02:50 PM
#113
Tech Fanatic
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 946
From: Finland
Damn, wish I could find one for that price in Europe, even with my aversion for used stuff that'd be pretty irresistible It's a bit silly after 8 months I still want this car despite having no need for it (well, of course you can say that one never actually NEEDS any RC car, but you get my meaning... maybe).
It's a bit silly after 8 months I still want this car despite having no need for it (well, of course you can say that one never actually NEEDS any RC car, but you get my meaning... maybe).
05-19-2018 | 01:47 PM
#117
You can run 12mm beadlocks on the 8mm stub axles. This will give you infinite options of tires and wheels that are 2.2 size. I don’t have the TA DB8 but I have a Tekno et48 and hpi apache that I recently set up like this. Team associated has the same stub axle specs as these trucks.
You would need these adapters
https://store.rc4wd.com/12mm-Hex-for...le_p_4081.html
Heres my Tekno
And heres my Apache. Both 1/8 scale buggy based running aluminum 2.2 bead locks
You would need these adapters
https://store.rc4wd.com/12mm-Hex-for...le_p_4081.html
Heres my Tekno
And heres my Apache. Both 1/8 scale buggy based running aluminum 2.2 bead locks
05-19-2018 | 02:01 PM
#118
Or...Motoworx racing just recently started making 17mm hub bead locks. Not cheap though!...but awesome to finally have 17mm beadlocks!
http://motoworxracing.com/?product=2...7-17mm-hex-hub
http://motoworxracing.com/?product=2...7-17mm-hex-hub
05-21-2018 | 07:29 AM
#119
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 109
From: Mississippi
Awesome! A few questions:
1. When using the cold adapters, is the width just right or do you use spacers or would you even want to?
2. When using the 17mm wheels, do you use any of the spacers etc....
3. What cages and/or bodies are you using?
1. When using the cold adapters, is the width just right or do you use spacers or would you even want to?
2. When using the 17mm wheels, do you use any of the spacers etc....
3. What cages and/or bodies are you using?
You can run 12mm beadlocks on the 8mm stub axles. This will give you infinite options of tires and wheels that are 2.2 size. I don’t have the TA DB8 but I have a Tekno et48 and hpi apache that I recently set up like this. Team associated has the same stub axle specs as these trucks.
You would need these adapters
https://store.rc4wd.com/12mm-Hex-for...le_p_4081.html
Heres my Tekno
And heres my Apache. Both 1/8 scale buggy based running aluminum 2.2 bead locks
You would need these adapters
https://store.rc4wd.com/12mm-Hex-for...le_p_4081.html
Heres my Tekno
And heres my Apache. Both 1/8 scale buggy based running aluminum 2.2 bead locks
Or...Motoworx racing just recently started making 17mm hub bead locks. Not cheap though!...but awesome to finally have 17mm beadlocks!
2.2 XD17 For use with 17mm Hex Hubs |
2.2 XD17 For use with 17mm Hex Hubs |
05-21-2018 | 09:31 AM
#120
Both trucks are wider than allowed for u4rc racing....I don’t race so the wider stance is better for me. Race limit is 13.5”. I can get the HPI to that width easily I believe. But the et48.4 would need one of two things, either eb48.3 or sct410.3(arms, hubs, knuckles, etc).
The Tekno is using rc8t 17mm extenders/adapters and .250 Motoworx hub extenders. The HPI is using the 17 to 12mm adapters andGearhead hubs(but not sure the offset at the moment)
the tekno body body is from a Losi SCBE. THE HPI is a HPI Apache c1 flux. Chopped and modified a bit.
The Tekno is using rc8t 17mm extenders/adapters and .250 Motoworx hub extenders. The HPI is using the 17 to 12mm adapters andGearhead hubs(but not sure the offset at the moment)
the tekno body body is from a Losi SCBE. THE HPI is a HPI Apache c1 flux. Chopped and modified a bit.