So a single diff case should be around $45. That's a pretty good price. It took a lot of work to develop these. They hold twice as much fluid as the stock case all while using the stock components.

Figured that...paying for the development. I'll spring for 3

Hey guys, been a long time!

Got a little update on my MT410 I'd like to share as inspiration for others. I was never really satisfied with my 4076-1700kv Racerstar motor and really wanted to use a 1717 motor in my MT410. Got some inspiration myself from here and here to make my own CF rear brace and ESC top plate. My designs are attached as PDF to this post, feel free to use, modify, etc. (beware it's on A4 sized paper, make sure you print it out without scaling for those of you across the pond that use Letter sized paper). I used 3.2 mm CF plate.

Gearing is 22/45 (Losi HD diff), for no-load wheel-speed of 63-67 mph on 139 mm truggy, or 149 mm Badland (3.8) tires. Could be a bit higher than needed, but if necessary, I think I can go down to at least 20/45 if I shave down some of the fins of the motor on the position of the mid brace.

Cheers!


1717 requires 4 mm mount-screws


Templates for my DNX8/Talion cross-over and MT410; Proxxon KS-230 with 28012 diamond blade for easy straight (outside) cuts on the outside. Inside shapes done by hand with dremel.










50x50 mm 24 VDC fan mounted to old ESC plate and powered through low-voltage alarm's connector.


Tower brace from 12 mm Polyoxymethylene (POM) rod.

Nice work Dr T.

Excellent! You wouldn't happen to have some dimensions to go with those prints would you? Especially hole to hole measurements!

Has there ever been an MT410 owner who has damaged all 3 diff cases? If I go all out and get these, is the cost (for all 3) worth it in the long run? It's a damn cool upgrade, but just how necessary??

I will be getting the center diff because mine runs super hot and I have had rocks get stuck between the diff/chassis and chew up a good portion of the plastic diff case.

@DR. T that was a very interesting paint job on the MT410 that inspired your ESC mount.

I guy I speak to on another forum who has an MT410 told me it takes him 5 minutes or so to remove each diff case...it that possible in that short of time?

My drawings are in MS Viso (I know... amateur ). If you open the attached file in Visio, you'll find all the dimensions in the properties of the shapes.

Hope that helps!

Got it. I will look into that. Thanks!

The watermelon rat rod? Yeah, that was pretty ugly .

Wouldn't you think that rocks would just get stuck between the diff/chassis and then ruin the aluminum diff cup? At least when that happens with the stock plastic cup it's dirt cheap to replace. Not to mention if you have a gear failure inside the diff cup it will be near impossible to wash/clean the metal flakes out of the aluminum diff cup before putting new gears in it. The reason I say this is because I've never been able to find a solvent that can clean silicone diff oil out of the cup. I've tried cleaning the silver diff oil out of a used diff cup and it was impossible. The only way I've found to have fresh clean oil for a diff rebuild is to replace the plastic cup. That could get expensive with the fancy aluminum cups.

The diffs are made from 7075 T6 aircraft aluminum and hard anodized for maximum wear life...how tough is that?

I don't know how you call this but I use "Essence F" for cleaning silicone oil, and it works nicely

I'm not saying the 7075 cup isn't tough. What I'm saying is that if a rock gets wedged in there it will still gouge the outside of the cup. I'm sure it would still be useable but it would look like crap! I still haven't found anything that will clean silicone oil either. A poster in this thread mentions " essence f ", but I have no idea what he's talking about. I've tried every solvent I know of. Brake cleaner, carb cleaner, ether (starter fluid), gasoline, you name it. I asked local racers at my LHS what the magic solvent would be to clean the silicone oil out of my diff cups and they told me they knew of nothing that worked. They told me when the gears fail to just replace the cup. I even started a thread on RCTECH years ago asking this question and got basically the same response.