Hey Fela's, ladies,

I have A few questions in regards yo soldering temps. First when soldering a wire for a RX pack etc, thin wires, what temp should I set my hake 936 to? I don't want to overheat underheat, both of which we all can cause damage to related parts!!!NO GOOD!!!

I have been fine for MANY years,Fiest r/c Tamiya Hornet!!!, ok age hint!!! But with a break I've takin, a few years now easily, Also new Soldering station coming, figured I could fish for some type of specs to go by? I usually cranked half way, when the solder flowed like I wanted,Or, tinned a wire in <what I thought> was a reasonable amount of time, I was ok with it.

So In this case. can Perhaps see a problem w/soldering iron going bad/tips/etc..
In the case of soldering 3-4mm etc. bullet connectors for racing packs,Is there a good Range <temp worse> I should hang around? I bought a station for connectors pretty neat,I can stick/lie whichever the application calls for, and like a 3rd hand, it holds the connector, for error free /sloppy free /clean soldering job...

And than the Mother of Connectors, DEANS, <Mini & Standard please> Now these I feel are real important, as in the past, not many times, but ill be honest, it's happened, I've applied top much heat., where as the metal in the plastic housing, would move, or melt, etc...not good...

So a few Basic Heat Guidelines, would be very appreciated, Thankyou In Advance,

Tom

Generally you want to keep the heat between 650-725f for regular leaded solder, depending on the thickness of the item you are soldering. But my best suggestion is to check out this thread which goes over all the ins and outs of soldering in RC and I think it'll help you shore up your soldering abilities

How to solder correctly (a not so brief lesson)

Wow, glad I asked!!!!
I always for tx/rx wires, kept it around 450 ish"...but than again was not sure if tip /dial was accurate, I have a couple high end FLUKE meters that I use at for work, which do have the temp option on meters....instead of silly gun, I did a comparison , with my 999$ Fluke Ti100 infrared meter,The only reason I mention the price, as its extremely accurate and some might look up, and say use that for sure don't need nitro on screen , and banging around, etc..., lol, breaking in motor?? Sure, Why not?>>
But that would be about the only time i pull the Ti100 Beast out!!! For when I use, it's generally to look into 200amp BREAKERS, 20 HP Chiller motors, centrifugal pumps.etc etc etc.....ok way to much, sorry,.,.,
The Test was my Fluke Meters , and several Fluke Probes, VS.. and Old Exergen , well she was quite a bit was older.
But still, they used to be the go to temp guns, not sure what people use now-a-days, but I had a sliding scale 0-90 degrees being too high, or too low, than I plugged into my 902FC , which is a great meter, same result, than the 117 again, the Fluke meters were all around 1-4 DEGREES APART...Maybe it's time to re-calibrate Exergen?
If I even can get re-calibrated, as it has been sitting around a while, REAL long, I forgot I had it,NO B.S.!!
till I was doing a garage cleaning..Hidden Treasure, Found Lots of Awesome R/C Parts/even Cars ,lol, I forgot about, like mini's....


anyway thanks,
and I'm assuming the Exergen still holds the Chariot of fire,haha, I looked up still for sale? sooo, not discontinued red it a awesome sign, only fluke meter I know like that is the ol trusty T87,they call it different things now, t87-t etc, all sorts of variations, so they get EVERYONES MONEY!!...LOL.
Still have mine and calibrate every 2 years for past 23 years!!, its GRAY, ever see a GREY Fluke?