Palmaris engine thread
#1576
Originally posted by crashed_1
We've got racers in Malaysia hunting the BRB p/s down...CHRIS, get to work!...
Anyways, hope Palmaris will continue developing these wonder metals...
We've got racers in Malaysia hunting the BRB p/s down...CHRIS, get to work!...
Anyways, hope Palmaris will continue developing these wonder metals...
#1578
Originally posted by Surge
You might try a #7 plug. I tried a 6 here in TX and it was too hot.
You might try a #7 plug. I tried a 6 here in TX and it was too hot.
#1580
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#1581
Originally posted by Surge
You might try a #7 plug. I tried a 6 here in TX and it was too hot.
You might try a #7 plug. I tried a 6 here in TX and it was too hot.
Anything outside of that temp, I stay home...
#1582
Originally posted by kitracer
For Temp from 10c or 30C, I always use #7.
Anything outside of that temp, I stay home...
For Temp from 10c or 30C, I always use #7.
Anything outside of that temp, I stay home...
#1583
Dont know what your missing. Our first club race this year the temp was around 3-4 degC. The start of the first BRCA National round weekend the track was coated with ice
If we get 12 deg C before June we are out kissing the ground
If we get 12 deg C before June we are out kissing the ground
#1584
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
If we get 12 deg C before June we are out kissing the ground
If we get 12 deg C before June we are out kissing the ground
#1585
Originally posted by markp27
No you won't, you'll be in hospital being treated for extreme heat stroke
No you won't, you'll be in hospital being treated for extreme heat stroke
#1586
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Just thought I'd suggest it. Markp27's problem sounded either like a plug or a head shim. I've been running .4mm shims in my Rex with 3rd generation BRB and last weekend on my small local track tried .5mm and it worked maybe a little better. I suggest you try it and see what happens.
#1587
Originally posted by Surge
Just thought I'd suggest it. Markp27's problem sounded either like a plug or a head shim. I've been running .4mm shims in my Rex with 3rd generation BRB and last weekend on my small local track tried .5mm and it worked maybe a little better. I suggest you try it and see what happens.
Just thought I'd suggest it. Markp27's problem sounded either like a plug or a head shim. I've been running .4mm shims in my Rex with 3rd generation BRB and last weekend on my small local track tried .5mm and it worked maybe a little better. I suggest you try it and see what happens.
#1588
There seems to be a lot of confusion regarding shimming and head clearance etc...
Shims are not dictated according to Nitro content, plug or weather conditions etc... Shims are set according to the amount of crankpin/conrod play, wristpin/conrod play, big end bearing play and how tight the P/S fit are.
The key is to find the correct shimming that produces the most power and torque from the engine. The closer you can get the head clearance, the more power and torque the engine will produce.
Many people declare that adding a shim is the correct thing to do when getting pre-detonation or blowing plugs but all they are actually doing is reducing the amount of usable power the engine can produce within its designated powerband. This then means you have to lean the engine out further to regain that lost power which puts the engine under increased stress.
Instead you should aim for a clearance that produces the most power and torque and keep the engine at this at all times. If pre-detonation or post-detonation occurs you should remedy this by increasing the squish area with that clearance to maintain the correct compression ratio. (making the squish area wider or narrower).
This will stop wrong detonation timing but keep the same power/torque level as was previously had. the engine will happily run that bit richer while still maintaining the desired punch from corners and pulling bigger gears.
Shims are not dictated according to Nitro content, plug or weather conditions etc... Shims are set according to the amount of crankpin/conrod play, wristpin/conrod play, big end bearing play and how tight the P/S fit are.
The key is to find the correct shimming that produces the most power and torque from the engine. The closer you can get the head clearance, the more power and torque the engine will produce.
Many people declare that adding a shim is the correct thing to do when getting pre-detonation or blowing plugs but all they are actually doing is reducing the amount of usable power the engine can produce within its designated powerband. This then means you have to lean the engine out further to regain that lost power which puts the engine under increased stress.
Instead you should aim for a clearance that produces the most power and torque and keep the engine at this at all times. If pre-detonation or post-detonation occurs you should remedy this by increasing the squish area with that clearance to maintain the correct compression ratio. (making the squish area wider or narrower).
This will stop wrong detonation timing but keep the same power/torque level as was previously had. the engine will happily run that bit richer while still maintaining the desired punch from corners and pulling bigger gears.
#1589
Tech Adept
Squish area
HI Campbell,
I agree with your statement regarding adjusting the head clearance for most power and torque. I have ran engine with no shim without any adverse effects ( the engine was very torquey !!! With the pre/post detonation parts, how do you change the squish area, i.e wider or narrower ?
Philip
I agree with your statement regarding adjusting the head clearance for most power and torque. I have ran engine with no shim without any adverse effects ( the engine was very torquey !!! With the pre/post detonation parts, how do you change the squish area, i.e wider or narrower ?
Philip
#1590
Re: Squish area
Originally posted by xtreme888
HI Campbell,
I agree with your statement regarding adjusting the head clearance for most power and torque. I have ran engine with no shim without any adverse effects ( the engine was very torquey !!! With the pre/post detonation parts, how do you change the squish area, i.e wider or narrower ?
Philip
HI Campbell,
I agree with your statement regarding adjusting the head clearance for most power and torque. I have ran engine with no shim without any adverse effects ( the engine was very torquey !!! With the pre/post detonation parts, how do you change the squish area, i.e wider or narrower ?
Philip
To get it narrower you would need to know the exact area required and get a button made to suit. Just a matter of removing material from the appropriate place on an existing button to get it bigger.
I dont advise anyone to go try doing this unless they know exactly what they are doing and can make the proper calculations and changes to get the desired effect.