Aluminum shock caps are now available on Teknos site along with blank pistons. Go go go!

Lol old news J/K I ordered mine an hour ago already

I was still telling myself "five more minutes" when you ordered lol.

I ordered them right away. I don't want to miss out on the first batch. I'm scared to try and bleed the current caps. The bleeder screws are nearly stripped on mine

that's a good point considering how quickly people were swooping them up after they posted about it on the FB group lol. They've got some quick trigger fingers over there! That's where I get all the news on this thing

The caps show out of stock already. WOW!! That didn't take long.

Now I'm glad I didn't wait to get to work before I ordered! I guess no one liked the stock caps? =P I think with some stiffer plastic the stockers will be just as good as the stock eb48sl caps.

I'm still recovering from a long 4 day race weekend, actually had to take a day off work today to rest a pinched nerve in my back from spending too much time hunched over while wrenching on my cars... rookie mistake I won't make again!

So last Thursday Ryan Lutz, Joe Bornhorst and Matt Wolter hosted a "Racing Clinic" at our local club. Although the clinic was primarily geared for 1/8 racing, I had brought in my EB410 for the guys to look over and see what kind of feedback they had to offer on my setup for our local turf track. After a few minor tweaks here and there, the car was pretty dialed and after Ryan watched me drive a few laps to study the line, he took over the controls and quickly adjusted to my radio setup and I took some video to share with you guys:

+ YouTube Video

Here is the current setup with the car in the video:
EB410 Setup - Bill DeLong - Thornhill Jr - Turf

Joe spent some time with me on the shocks and here are my notes:

• Shock caps should screw on easily with fingers all the way down, if you have to use pliers then they are cross threaded. You need to press the cap down firmly and twist counter clockwise until you feel a pop, then begin to twist clockwise to tighten
• Droop is measured from plastic to plastic of the exposed shock shaft, you need to back out the threads on the ball end to make droop. Measure the exposed threads and cover the threads with rubber o-rings to prevent excessive travel back up into the shock chamber.
• Fill shock half way, then pump a few times to free any trapped air from under the piston, then extend to full droop and completely fill the shock to the top. Remove bleeder screw before tightening shock cap. Once cap is secure, slowly (I mean VERY slowly) work the piston up to no droop. You should see air bubbles vent through the bleeder hole and you want to minimize the amount of fluid that comes out of the bleeder hole which is why you need to work the piston very slow. Once you get to no droop then fasten the bleeder screw and pump the shock a few times, confirm no hydro-locking and that's all there is to it

My shocks were significantly smoother after using Joe's method to rebuild them... no more pumping 20 times... the method explained in the manual tends to expel more fluid than is necessary and you can end up with too much air in the shock leaving inconsistent results

Anyway, it was pretty cool to get to hang out with most of the Tekno pros this weekend, extra special thanks to Matt Wolter for a front ET48 shock shaft that I bent after hitting an un-marshaled car on the front straight during open practice... my race weekend was almost over because the on site shop had already sold out of the part I needed and Matt saved my bacon. This would eventually lead up to a clean sweep from Tekno on the podium for Sportsman eTruck

Looks like Tekno was able to secure some extra caps! Get 'em while they last folks! The first batch went quick

http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr6712a...lack-ano-2pcs/

Btw Bill I had the same issue this weekend with my back lol. I took Saturday off from everything and just relaxed haha

Man, After your post earlier I went and put them on my cart. I stepped away for a few (im at work) then I read the were out. No I saw your post again and just pulled the trigger. Got a big race next week and due to thanksgiving weekend shipping might be slower. Got to keep that in mind.
But got mines coming. I changed oils in the rear shocks yesterday and one of the bleeder holes is stripped.

I'm happy to see I helped at least one fellow get a set Yeah man as much as I love this buggy those stock caps were a tough one to take lol. I am lucky that my next rebuild will be using these aluminum caps rather than having to work with stripped bleeder holes like I've seen over on the FB page.

The order I placed this morning already has a tracking number

What size pinion should I run with a 13.5 and stock spur? I can’t find anywhere that has the recommend 70t spur for 13.5 motor and 26 pinion.

The optional spurs are not out yet, so you're probably going to want to start in the ranged of a 29-32t unless you are running Tekin's new RPM motor. For that motor people are running around 26t for pinion.

For the Tekin Gen 3 motor you want 24 tooth. For most others you want 29-30. I have 28 on my Motiv but my track doesn't have a long straight (maybe 60 foot).

I've updated the wiki to include this tip, thanks!