710LikesTeam Associated RC10B64 Thread
09-17-2017 | 08:27 AM
#2611
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 68
From: OKC
I'm with you. Went through a couple gearbox housings between shimming and playing with different weight fluids. I ended up finally switching the input shaft retainers to eclips and bought another bag of shims. I put a shim on the input shaft and added a couple on both sides of the diff. Still not as quiet as I'd like but sooo much better. Most of my noise now comes from the pinion and spur. You can pull the entire front or rear assemblies off the chassis with 6 screws and the bottom of the gearbox is open so you can get a pretty good look at if and where you're getting any movement.
09-17-2017 | 10:41 AM
#2613
how are you temping right now?
Assuming your motor isn't having issues, personally when running spec classes I start by using a method that the late Big Jim, one of the premier motor guys of his time recommended to me, with a few changes. Basically, he said to start by gearing your vehicle to top out towards the end of the longest straight, then check temps. I do this, within reason if the straight is really long or insanely short, and see how the vehicle feels and how the temps are.
If all looks good, I usually stick with that gearing or adjust about a tooth or 2. This in general has worked really well for me on a variety of vehicle platforms from 1/10 scale 2wd an 4wd buggy up to 1/8 E truggy.
Hope this helps.
as a side note, you can over heat a motor by being undergeared and have it revving at its high end range of the throttle all the time. If you find you are pretty much topped out throttle wise around most of the track, especially very very early going down a straight, I would give my gearing a look for sure.
Assuming your motor isn't having issues, personally when running spec classes I start by using a method that the late Big Jim, one of the premier motor guys of his time recommended to me, with a few changes. Basically, he said to start by gearing your vehicle to top out towards the end of the longest straight, then check temps. I do this, within reason if the straight is really long or insanely short, and see how the vehicle feels and how the temps are.
If all looks good, I usually stick with that gearing or adjust about a tooth or 2. This in general has worked really well for me on a variety of vehicle platforms from 1/10 scale 2wd an 4wd buggy up to 1/8 E truggy.
Hope this helps.
as a side note, you can over heat a motor by being undergeared and have it revving at its high end range of the throttle all the time. If you find you are pretty much topped out throttle wise around most of the track, especially very very early going down a straight, I would give my gearing a look for sure.
I am at full down the straight and to make jumps that shouldn't be that hard clear,,
How exactly do I check temps,, I do have a temp gun from my nitro days,, just shoot the side of the motor? My esc is set at 170 degree cut off and hasn't ever cut off so I guess I'm always under that,, what would be an ideal temp range?
I'm running a smc 170 and a tsr 17.5,, and it actually has a 22 pinion , not a 21.
tnx again
09-17-2017 | 01:08 PM
#2614
Tech Initiate
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 35
From: Los Lunas NM
My B64D manual says 31/78 for a 17.5 and 21/81 for a 7.5.
09-17-2017 | 01:46 PM
#2615
How exactly do I check temps,, I do have a temp gun from my nitro days,, just shoot the side of the motor? My esc is set at 170 degree cut off and hasn't ever cut off so I guess I'm always under that,, what would be an ideal temp range?
I'm running a smc 170 and a tsr 17.5,, and it actually has a 22 pinion , not a 21.
tnx again
I'm running a smc 170 and a tsr 17.5,, and it actually has a 22 pinion , not a 21.
tnx again
09-17-2017 | 08:04 PM
#2616
I am at full down the straight and to make jumps that shouldn't be that hard clear,,
How exactly do I check temps,, I do have a temp gun from my nitro days,, just shoot the side of the motor? My esc is set at 170 degree cut off and hasn't ever cut off so I guess I'm always under that,, what would be an ideal temp range?
I'm running a smc 170 and a tsr 17.5,, and it actually has a 22 pinion , not a 21.
tnx again
How exactly do I check temps,, I do have a temp gun from my nitro days,, just shoot the side of the motor? My esc is set at 170 degree cut off and hasn't ever cut off so I guess I'm always under that,, what would be an ideal temp range?
I'm running a smc 170 and a tsr 17.5,, and it actually has a 22 pinion , not a 21.
tnx again
In 2wd, we gear 17.5's @ 28-34/70.
09-18-2017 | 01:39 AM
#2617
Wow,, then I'm way off, based on those gear ratios I should be running more like a 32 or 33 with the 81 spur
Thanks guys,, I'm going to confirm my spur and order a few pinions in the suggested range
Thanks guys,, I'm going to confirm my spur and order a few pinions in the suggested range
09-18-2017 | 02:10 AM
#2618
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 78
I'm with you. Went through a couple gearbox housings between shimming and playing with different weight fluids. I ended up finally switching the input shaft retainers to eclips and bought another bag of shims. I put a shim on the input shaft and added a couple on both sides of the diff. Still not as quiet as I'd like but sooo much better. Most of my noise now comes from the pinion and spur. You can pull the entire front or rear assemblies off the chassis with 6 screws and the bottom of the gearbox is open so you can get a pretty good look at if and where you're getting any movement.
I ended up getting a great deal on a 2017 XB4 last night.
Will be retiring the b64d only one race day old. Unfortunately I'm a disappointed b64d customer. To many issues.
09-18-2017 | 07:03 AM
#2619
I don't understand the loudness of the car. I had mine built by Nick Wautlet of walliebuilds and it isn't much louder than my B6D. I think mine also has a super free drivetrain for a 4wd. I don't know if he built mine different from the manual, but I love it.
09-18-2017 | 07:51 AM
#2620
Weird, I have had almost no issues. I broke an arm, but I nailed the pipe hard on power. I broke a tower and a light roll over. Aside from that the car has been solid.
09-18-2017 | 08:01 AM
#2621
That is helpful actually,, coming from running nitro 10 years ago, there is some much new stuff to learn right away and it's baffling me right now..
I am at full down the straight and to make jumps that shouldn't be that hard clear,,
How exactly do I check temps,, I do have a temp gun from my nitro days,, just shoot the side of the motor? My esc is set at 170 degree cut off and hasn't ever cut off so I guess I'm always under that,, what would be an ideal temp range?
I'm running a smc 170 and a tsr 17.5,, and it actually has a 22 pinion , not a 21.
tnx again
I am at full down the straight and to make jumps that shouldn't be that hard clear,,
How exactly do I check temps,, I do have a temp gun from my nitro days,, just shoot the side of the motor? My esc is set at 170 degree cut off and hasn't ever cut off so I guess I'm always under that,, what would be an ideal temp range?
I'm running a smc 170 and a tsr 17.5,, and it actually has a 22 pinion , not a 21.
tnx again
09-18-2017 | 09:00 AM
#2622
I had a 22-4, that was a quite car...... stripped a spur at a club night race.... night was over have to take like 20 screws out to replace it. Louder is better
09-18-2017 | 09:29 AM
#2623
09-18-2017 | 09:36 AM
#2624
09-18-2017 | 10:10 AM
#2625
FYI with the 81 spur I don't believe you can fit a pinion any larger than a 29 tooth (can anyone confirm?). Not sure off the top of my head with the 78 spur, but I'd guess its not more than 30 tooth fitment. Running 17.5 in 4wd usually has required custom made small spur gears.