710LikesTeam Associated RC10B64 Thread
08-01-2017, 03:20 PM - Wikipost
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09-11-2017, 06:30 AM
#2596
Well I am not doing so well. I am really close to giving up on my B64D. I am trying to set it up for 17.5 stock, but cannot get the gearing right. I am running a fixed timing Muchmore motor, a reedy Blackbox ESC. I have tried all sorts of spur/pinion setups, with slipper eliminators as well as slippers. I just can't get the speed, or punch out of the car I need compared to others I see running the same motor in different makes of cars. I am running on an outdoor dirt track, with medium grip, using the same tyres as everyone else. I have tried to setup my car the same as Ray Munday (at a different track and he runs mod) but still no good. I have replaced my bearings with AVID ceramics, I have replaced my diffs with plastic diffs. I have no clue where else to go to get this car to run properly.
Before putting in the fixed timing motor I cooked 2 Reedy M3 motors, then struggled to get a Trinity 24K certified to run cool enough. I have tried to shimming my diffs, changing the diff fluid, lighter batteries, heavier batteries.
Any suggestions would be appreciated from someone who is currently successfully running a B64D in stock. Thanks
Before putting in the fixed timing motor I cooked 2 Reedy M3 motors, then struggled to get a Trinity 24K certified to run cool enough. I have tried to shimming my diffs, changing the diff fluid, lighter batteries, heavier batteries.
Any suggestions would be appreciated from someone who is currently successfully running a B64D in stock. Thanks
09-11-2017, 07:56 AM
#2597
If you are running a locked timing motor and trying to keep up with others that aren't, you are going to have a bad time.
The '6 amp setting' is an okay baseline, but that is just an estimate to get the most power out of the motor. It for sure isn't the most efficient way to run. If you are using the amperage method to set timing, I wouldn't jump right to 6 off the bat. Try setting the timing for 4-5 amps and running a couple full practice races that way. That last 2% of power you gain by adding more timing adds a disproportionate amount of heat to the motor.
While a fan is a great way to keep it cool, surface area plays a big factor. Add a simple clip on heatsink that the fan can blow air through to really maximize the cooling power.
Another way to make the car more efficient is to reduce toe. I know it will take some other adjustments to compensate, but 3 degrees of rear toe in a 4wd vehicle with a 17.5 motor is overkill. Going to 2.5 or 2 will reduce rolling resistance and give you more steering as well. Try to keep the front close to 0 as well.
The '6 amp setting' is an okay baseline, but that is just an estimate to get the most power out of the motor. It for sure isn't the most efficient way to run. If you are using the amperage method to set timing, I wouldn't jump right to 6 off the bat. Try setting the timing for 4-5 amps and running a couple full practice races that way. That last 2% of power you gain by adding more timing adds a disproportionate amount of heat to the motor.
While a fan is a great way to keep it cool, surface area plays a big factor. Add a simple clip on heatsink that the fan can blow air through to really maximize the cooling power.
Another way to make the car more efficient is to reduce toe. I know it will take some other adjustments to compensate, but 3 degrees of rear toe in a 4wd vehicle with a 17.5 motor is overkill. Going to 2.5 or 2 will reduce rolling resistance and give you more steering as well. Try to keep the front close to 0 as well.
09-11-2017, 05:20 PM
#2598
Well I am not doing so well. I am really close to giving up on my B64D. I am trying to set it up for 17.5 stock, but cannot get the gearing right. I am running a fixed timing Muchmore motor, a reedy Blackbox ESC. I have tried all sorts of spur/pinion setups, with slipper eliminators as well as slippers. I just can't get the speed, or punch out of the car I need compared to others I see running the same motor in different makes of cars. I am running on an outdoor dirt track, with medium grip, using the same tyres as everyone else. I have tried to setup my car the same as Ray Munday (at a different track and he runs mod) but still no good. I have replaced my bearings with AVID ceramics, I have replaced my diffs with plastic diffs. I have no clue where else to go to get this car to run properly.
Before putting in the fixed timing motor I cooked 2 Reedy M3 motors, then struggled to get a Trinity 24K certified to run cool enough. I have tried to shimming my diffs, changing the diff fluid, lighter batteries, heavier batteries.
Any suggestions would be appreciated from someone who is currently successfully running a B64D in stock. Thanks
Before putting in the fixed timing motor I cooked 2 Reedy M3 motors, then struggled to get a Trinity 24K certified to run cool enough. I have tried to shimming my diffs, changing the diff fluid, lighter batteries, heavier batteries.
Any suggestions would be appreciated from someone who is currently successfully running a B64D in stock. Thanks
These motors need to be geared super tall to work properly. Some of the other suggestions here (no drag brake, reduce toe) are also good suggestions to follow.
Have fun!
Ray
09-12-2017, 02:38 AM
#2599
Tech Rookie
Hi mate Im not a stock expert but I was at the NSW titles over the weekend in Sydney and pitted next to Lachlan Donnelly who won 4wd 17.5 with his B64 (all racers using the Muchmore fixed timing motor as a control motor). Would be worth asking his father Chad for advice if you are in the area or on facebook. I know they are running the MIP lightweight drivetrain and I believe also the Bezerk locked slipper shaft. Unfortunately there is a huge difference between mod and 17.5 power output for 4wd and the fixed timing motor is visibly slower than the open timing motors (when I have seem them run head to head on a club day).
These motors need to be geared super tall to work properly. Some of the other suggestions here (no drag brake, reduce toe) are also good suggestions to follow.
Have fun!
Ray
These motors need to be geared super tall to work properly. Some of the other suggestions here (no drag brake, reduce toe) are also good suggestions to follow.
Have fun!
Ray
Thanks Ray, much appreciated
09-12-2017, 07:44 PM
#2601
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
I've had good luck with AKA glue as well. I pour some on to a penny and use an xacto blade to apply it as well. I just dab some on the blade and "paint" it on the edges. Competitionx.com also has a good tutorial on sanding and sealing the edges.
Last edited by Chris Brown; 09-12-2017 at 07:45 PM. Reason: grammar
09-14-2017, 08:43 PM
#2603
Tech Addict
iTrader: (58)
MIP 13.5 puck system
Just wanted to see if anyone could answer this Since didn't get a response from MIP. I was looking into ordering the kit and some spare bones for the 13.5 system. I came across conflicting info on their website. When you buy the kit, it says the rear bones are 67mm long, but if you just want replacement bones, it says they are 65mm long. Does anyone have the correct measurement so I know I'm ordering the right parts? Thanks!
Last edited by Prostreet314; 09-14-2017 at 08:43 PM. Reason: Spelling
09-16-2017, 06:46 AM
#2605
What pinion for a 7.5?
09-16-2017, 08:55 AM
#2606
09-16-2017, 09:28 PM
#2607
Hi, does anyone know how to solve the horrible and very embarrassing whining noise that comes from the gearbox? Ive rebuilt this thing so many times the threads in the plastic parts are now rubbish. Not keen on throwing more money this.
09-17-2017, 04:07 AM
#2609
Guys,, I'm running a 17.5, I too am running the stock gearing 21/81, after two race days it's clear that I'm much slower than most of the other guys in punch and top end,, is bumping up the pinion a good idea or is that just going to get the motor/esc to hot?
tia
tia
09-17-2017, 08:03 AM
#2610
how are you temping right now?
Assuming your motor isn't having issues, personally when running spec classes I start by using a method that the late Big Jim, one of the premier motor guys of his time recommended to me, with a few changes. Basically, he said to start by gearing your vehicle to top out towards the end of the longest straight, then check temps. I do this, within reason if the straight is really long or insanely short, and see how the vehicle feels and how the temps are.
If all looks good, I usually stick with that gearing or adjust about a tooth or 2. This in general has worked really well for me on a variety of vehicle platforms from 1/10 scale 2wd an 4wd buggy up to 1/8 E truggy.
Hope this helps.
as a side note, you can over heat a motor by being undergeared and have it revving at its high end range of the throttle all the time. If you find you are pretty much topped out throttle wise around most of the track, especially very very early going down a straight, I would give my gearing a look for sure.
Assuming your motor isn't having issues, personally when running spec classes I start by using a method that the late Big Jim, one of the premier motor guys of his time recommended to me, with a few changes. Basically, he said to start by gearing your vehicle to top out towards the end of the longest straight, then check temps. I do this, within reason if the straight is really long or insanely short, and see how the vehicle feels and how the temps are.
If all looks good, I usually stick with that gearing or adjust about a tooth or 2. This in general has worked really well for me on a variety of vehicle platforms from 1/10 scale 2wd an 4wd buggy up to 1/8 E truggy.
Hope this helps.
as a side note, you can over heat a motor by being undergeared and have it revving at its high end range of the throttle all the time. If you find you are pretty much topped out throttle wise around most of the track, especially very very early going down a straight, I would give my gearing a look for sure.
