Found out tonight that a tight slipper, new tires and high traction carpet equals a twisted rear cva! It broke right at the outdrive and left the ball in the outdrive carrier. The worst part....was TQ and it broke on the warm up lap for the main. Oh well.....just toy car racing!!

Well I am not doing so well. I am really close to giving up on my B64D. I am trying to set it up for 17.5 stock, but cannot get the gearing right. I am running a fixed timing Muchmore motor, a reedy Blackbox ESC. I have tried all sorts of spur/pinion setups, with slipper eliminators as well as slippers. I just can't get the speed, or punch out of the car I need compared to others I see running the same motor in different makes of cars. I am running on an outdoor dirt track, with medium grip, using the same tyres as everyone else. I have tried to setup my car the same as Ray Munday (at a different track and he runs mod) but still no good. I have replaced my bearings with AVID ceramics, I have replaced my diffs with plastic diffs. I have no clue where else to go to get this car to run properly.
Before putting in the fixed timing motor I cooked 2 Reedy M3 motors, then struggled to get a Trinity 24K certified to run cool enough. I have tried to shimming my diffs, changing the diff fluid, lighter batteries, heavier batteries.
Any suggestions would be appreciated from someone who is currently successfully running a B64D in stock. Thanks

Whats your diff shimming? I would go straight to 0/7 and make them as loose
as possible since they change when you tighten up the covers.

I am at 0/7 shimming

I would start with making sure your drive train is a free as possible. If you remove your center drive bones do each of your diffs (front, rear and center) spin freely? ALso want to make sure your pinion/spur mesh is not too tight as well but sinve you mentioned you have tried several motor and gearing combinations i highly doubt it would be that.

im half way through the build on my b64d and when mounting rear arms to arm mount d,i noticed the 2 arms are not freely its binding.is that normal or is there a tip to make it freely.looked around but could find on this forum about Rear arm binding.thanks

Damn i love this Buggy! I broke a rear swaybar blue ball mount. The swaybar broke off with its blue cousin out of the plastic ball end. Clean break had to order another swaybar link kit. She still hauled the mail without a rear swaybar on carpet.

Just starred building mine for the winter season gonna be running 13.5 and must have or must do upgrades. Running a team kit on clay.

Hopefully you are running a fan on the motor if not you should be. Also, why the fixed timing motor just puts you at an disadvantage to the ones running adjustable timing advance. I would set my motor to pull 6 amps if I was running adjustable timing advance by an motor analyzer.

On Youtube there is a channel called The RCNetwork and in the second video of his B46d build series called "Build Update" starting at about 4:40 He explains how he used sand paper to sand away some of the plastic on his front A-arms to make them move freely. At the start of the video he also tells what size arm reamer to use if it is the pins causing the binding. I assume the same would apply to the rear arms also. good luck.

Aluminum steering rack and possibly the aluminum rear hubs. The plastic hubs are ok, but the upper mounts are a weak spot.

Both of the cooked Reedy M3s were set to 6 amps. Obviously didn't have the right gearing (yes I have a WTF fan). I was checking the motor temps every couple of minutes, but wasn't quick enough.

Using the fixed timing motor as it is a requirement for some competitions so I thought it best to set the car up with it

Mine were the same, front and rear, but those pills in the hangers are a tough fit. Once I pushed them a little more into the hanger, the wishbones were nice and smooth.

Aluminum steering rack and horn IMHO are the only must haves. Plastic gears and adjustable bellcrank have been my favorite personal preference mods so far. For the rear hubs just make sure and get the other half of the aluminum inserts.

yes i tried that but it didn't do much but I when I installed Rear hubs and shafts it's now freely I guess because of the weight.thanks