Cilal

iTrader: (7)

Thanks! How big should I make the hole diameter? Will heaps of it still blow inside the body and oil up the rear tyre? The exhaust is obviously
a tyre width from the exhaust to the body.
Could you show me a photo of your setup?

Another question- was going to upgrade to the 3.0 upgrade this week. But just saw the new parts mentioned. Would I need the 3.0 upgrade set as a basis to then add on these new extras that have been mentioned? Or will there be an entire new upgrade pack for these new parts so I don't need to buy the current 3.0 upgrade?

Dougie1986

So i got the rear diff case spacer. However, i realize that it is affecting my (1.)downward stop/droop settings and (2.) my ride height.it almost like i cant set the downward stop with the shocks attached. Also, I have to put a lot of preload on the spring just to get the rear ride height to be at 8mm. just to note i have not driven the car

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Where are you measuring the Downstop? On my 3.0 with the rear spacer fitted I set the Downstop to 28mm from the bottom of the wheel hex flat to the board with the chassis flat on the board. Thats easily achievable with the shocks at kit standard length. Yes the pre-load will be a long way down the shock body to achieve ride height. I run 9mm rear ride height but can easily go way higher if I wanted to.

Dougie1986

Oh i see. i had the chassis on the droop gauge block. But from what you are saying. i should place the chassis on a flat surface then adjust the downstop.

Dougie1986

im good now. thanks again.
testing is tomorrow...will give feedback

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Yes flat on the ground. No need for droop blocks. Good news that you are sorted. Now go and enjoy the car!

Dougie1986

The car is now able to power from mid corner to exit. It feels great when i squeeze the trigger aggressively. The down side is that the car is pushing into the corners of the (understeer). At first i had the front/rear shock position low the understeer was massive. Now the front/rear shock position is at the highest. This took away some of the understeer but i am still not able to cut into the corners like before. Btw now i have 1million in front and 50k in rear diff. I always had to put on the 2.7mm anti roll bar in the rear to also mitigate against the understeer. I have 2.5mm in the front. The toe and camber settings is as you suggested before. I was on the grp S2 tyres. What else can i do to get less understeer but else able to power mid to corner exit? If i were to get the front diff spacer would have cancel out the advantage i have by using the rear only? What is the best gear settings for my tight hairpin track (spur/pinion)? What type of drive can i expect with 500k front and 50k rear diff oil?

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

I'm glad to see you're making progress. I run the shocks at the lowest position front and rear. 3.0mm rear arb and the 2.7mm front arb. I also run the front diff spacer as well but many don't. I run 500k rear diff and 1M front diff. I think your rear diff is way too soft. I run the car quite stiff running the new 39.5lbs hard springs. I've found that the GRP wheels rub the steering blocks at near full lock and you can't actually achieve full lock which could contribute to your understeer issues. Like I said I really don't like the GRP wheel/tyre for several reasons. Are you running the 0-degree steering blocks? These would also provide more off power steering.

Dougie1986

Ok. I'll get some sweep and feel the difference.i like the grp because they grip very well. As it relates to the diff oil all the forums i read stated that a thicker oil in the rear will contribute to my previous oversteering issue (fishtail). I think i will try 500k in the front to try get back some corner entry. I am running the 600704 6-degree steering block.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

No you're running the 6 degree CASTER BLOCK. The steering blocks are different. PN 600611 and will give more on power steering. The issues you were suffering before is because the car was too soft and rolling too much. If you want steering you need a harder rear diff. 50k is way too soft there is also a phenomenon where the rear of the car diffs out under power and makes it very unstable which can feel like a fish tail situation. Perhaps try 150k in the rear first. 500k in the front 150k in the rear and see what that gets you.

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

Has anyone had an issue with the diffs not seating in the diff case? I have tried removing the shim from the 44t side of the diff and the bearings will not seat in the case. I'm wondering if I have a bad case. I've tried the front diff and it does the same thing.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

No I haven't and I've built quite a few of these kits and I've never heard of the issue before. All the kits I've built have needed shims to remove the play in the bearings and between the gears. Can you post a photo of what you are having an issue with? I want to check assembly.

Dougie1986

Ok. So i did not change the rear diff oil as you suggested it is still at 50K. However, for the front diff i used 1/2 million and 1/2 500k (i would like to think i am running 750k in the fr). i have silver springs fr&rr. sweep slick 50 shore. the camber links are long. the lowest roll center is at the lowest fr & rr(i.e. their are at the highest position on the inner holes). shocks position is at the highest position fr & rr. camber & toe is still as you suggested. 2.3 anti roll bar fr and 2.7 anti roll bar rr. downstop is 30mm fr and 27mm rr. ride height is 8.5 fr and 9 rr. i am still using the rr diff space.

My Problem: When entering the corners off throttle so that car can roll into the corner. the car is pushing and if i don't enter the corner spot on it seems like its massively pushing. i would say this affects the car at entry & mid corner. By mid corner when i squeeze the throttle the rear goes into a controllable slide which is ok. But the corner would have already been comprised.

Fix Needed: i NEED more turn in at entry & mid corner off throttle. Is this achievable without changing the diff oil? Because remember when i had 500k fr and 200k rr and no diff space i was struggling from uncontrollable oversteer once the throttle was applied mid to exit corner. BUT i had turn in off throttle. i could cut in on the corners perfectly but suffer when exiting and applying throttle during the corner. i love how the car is stable now even if i apply mid squeeze to the throttle is applies mid to exit corner.

Track: tight hairpins, narrow , low speed, mid grip level when sugar coated, parking lot, size of asphalt medium, average temp 85-90 degrees F

The changes we made so far is being noticed at the track... its just that the entry & mid cornering is comprising my laps. its almost like it is inconsistent. Please offer more suggestions.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

First off you've got the hardest compound of sweep tires. I never run 50's and run 40's in qualifying (and even finals if the tire wear is sensible) and 45's in finals. I never need to go as hard as 50. So thats one thing that'll give you more overall traction.

You need the alu zero degree spindles/steering blocks combined with the stock alu 6-degree caster block - that'll give you more steering throughout the corner. It makes a huge difference.

Harden up the rear diff - You WILL get more steering. Now you have the stability in the car you can start to unlock the steering and putting a harder rear diff in will help this.

Who suggested a 2.3 front roll bar? you need to be at 2.5 at least. I run a 3mm rear roll bar or 2.7mm in lower traction conditions.

As I mentioned previously the harder I am going with the car the better it gets as it keeps the car flatter so i'm now running the 39.5lb hard springs with very little uplift so droop (measured from the bottom flat of the wheel hex) is 27mm rear and 28mm front. Ride height 8mm front 9mm rear on a bumpy track or 7mm front 8mm rear on a smooth track. Front static camber at ride height 1 degree and rear 2 degree.

You can check you suspension inserts too. I run 2d/3d in the front and 6/5in in the rear of the car. I also run the front diff spacer too.

Long upper camber links are correct but your inner position is incorrect and should be mounted lower. front should be hole 2rd from bottom and the rear middle (3rd from bottom).

Upper shock positon. Run the front shocks lowest and the rears either lowest or 2nd hole from lowest depending on the feeling of the car - try both. Stiffer springs.

Have you got the HARD servo saver spring on the car? That really helps too.

Dougie1986

I have some 40 and 45 on the way. Was just working with the 50 sweep until then since thats all i had with the grp.

i tried desoto racing and other online hobby shops and nowhere seem to have the "alu zero degree spindles/steering blocks". so if you know somewhere feel free to direct me.

i have 80k... would have be sufficient for the rear?

the piece about antiroll bar wasn't your suggestion. its a new sentence in explaining my setup. i went softer in the front because the hudy setup guide reference said going softer in the front and harder in the rear is the top way to get rid of under-steering.

i have the noted the height ride, droop, front inserts, camber link position and shock position. i will make changes for next week. point to note: i already have 6/5 insert in the rear and 3up/3dwn insert in the front.

Questions:

1. do i NEED to get the front diff spacer to fix my problem? or is that 1 way i can fix my problem? (i have to purchase parts from USA and ship them plus pay customs. so the less spending i can do is the better.)

2. the car was initially a rtr converted to the version 3.the servo saver was never changed. what is the default spring size?

3. i have a bottle with 80k. will i see the any improvement from the 50k?

4. where can i get the zero degree steering block?

As usually thanks for your help.