Thanks guys for the "cheater" info. i didn't know the M07 gears were the same as 3/5/6.

The spur is the same but the rest are different.

So if I've seen correctly elsewhere, a 20T pinion in the M07 gives same FDR as previous M-Chassis cars? I'm thinking of compatibility within the class with older cars.

Yep. Difference of 0.01% That's less than tire wear.

so w/ a 24t pinion the M07 should be much faster than the best M05's ...shoot, ..my M07 is on order and will not have it built for my next race. ...I know a few guys are already running the M07's at my track for our next race .... double rats

I'm not sure if I missed it, but for TCS races, is there a pinion limit for the M07 to keep the playing field level with the M03 and M05?

Here you can have mine, I have two of them and don't need both of them!

I think it's safe to assume TCS will limit the pinion to 20t max. It's very easy to check on the M07. The little hatch covering the pinion just pops right off.

Weird thing from my build - tried using the heavy duty rear axles, like you'd use on any other mini. They caused a very slight binding for some reason. I tried removing shims, different bearings, different set of he axles, etc, but the only way to get smooth axles was to run the kit ones. The funny part is I can't see any diffrence between the old and new. Weird.

MORE: Motor fitment is a bit of a pig. Ended up filing a little bit to make room for wires for Hobbywing 13t style motor. I'm guessing at some point, someone will come up with a replacement stiffener bar for that spot that's bent differently. Fitting the rear suspension mounts requires minor juggling abilities. Oh, the thing with accessing the gearbox by undoing 8 screws also requires popping off upper links, steering links, swaybar link and dampers. I think you could do some work with just the screws out, but it's tricky.

Still, I like this car so far. Nice plastics, stiff chassis. Still pondering shorty battery attachment.

What body are you guys going to use for your MO-7s?

Miata

a picture is worth a thousand words.. during my build I had issue with getting R1-wurks motor to fit with 20t pinion.

I'm guessing each motor could have unique issues.

No room for tabs to rotate rearward (right in picture) to fit pinion bigger than 20t. When fitting the 20t pinion the tab shown is pressed hard against the chassis. Can also see where the can portion still has room to move rearward.

Time to get the Dremel out. should only require minimal material removal for this issue..

Using the HW style can, I had to rotate the motor fairly far clockwise to get the wires to clear the reinforcement. This led to interference with the side of the tub (circled in red). Filed a teensy bit off of there, just so the wires weren't under constant strain. Don't really want to shave anything from the reinforcing piece. Pretty sure if I had a 3D printer, I'd design a replacement part.



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Does anyone know the part number for the "big bore" shock pistons? Same as the TRF419X maybe?

Might use my protoform SoCal panel wagons.