Xray T4 2016
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#1171
As stated above it all really relies on your driving style. I personally don't ever run progressives on the rear. Never have liked them.
If I was running a 2.5-2.8 front spring, normally the rear will be a 2.6-2.7 linear spring. Front softer as a 2.3-2.6 spring (sounds like it would be a better option for you honestly), I'd run a 2.3-2.5 rear spring. Again, it all depends on your layout, driving style, and also positions of the shocks on the tower has a great effect on how it handles and drives.
In recent testing (thanks to a discussion via text with Robbie) I've learned and felt that the rear springs as a 2.6-2.7 rate in position 2 feel the same as a 2.5 in position 3 on the tower, with the exception that the 2.5's allow the front to gain more traction on corner entry.
In the end, it's all how you drive, and what you feel. Nothing will ever replace track time and learning every moment you can. Try things just to try them. And when track conditions change, go back and try the same thing again. See how it feels different, how things change, then take notes or lock that info away in your brain. It helps growth.
If I was running a 2.5-2.8 front spring, normally the rear will be a 2.6-2.7 linear spring. Front softer as a 2.3-2.6 spring (sounds like it would be a better option for you honestly), I'd run a 2.3-2.5 rear spring. Again, it all depends on your layout, driving style, and also positions of the shocks on the tower has a great effect on how it handles and drives.
In recent testing (thanks to a discussion via text with Robbie) I've learned and felt that the rear springs as a 2.6-2.7 rate in position 2 feel the same as a 2.5 in position 3 on the tower, with the exception that the 2.5's allow the front to gain more traction on corner entry.
In the end, it's all how you drive, and what you feel. Nothing will ever replace track time and learning every moment you can. Try things just to try them. And when track conditions change, go back and try the same thing again. See how it feels different, how things change, then take notes or lock that info away in your brain. It helps growth.
#1172
Tech Adept
As stated above it all really relies on your driving style. I personally don't ever run progressives on the rear. Never have liked them.
If I was running a 2.5-2.8 front spring, normally the rear will be a 2.6-2.7 linear spring. Front softer as a 2.3-2.6 spring (sounds like it would be a better option for you honestly), I'd run a 2.3-2.5 rear spring. Again, it all depends on your layout, driving style, and also positions of the shocks on the tower has a great effect on how it handles and drives.
In recent testing (thanks to a discussion via text with Robbie) I've learned and felt that the rear springs as a 2.6-2.7 rate in position 2 feel the same as a 2.5 in position 3 on the tower, with the exception that the 2.5's allow the front to gain more traction on corner entry.
In the end, it's all how you drive, and what you feel. Nothing will ever replace track time and learning every moment you can. Try things just to try them. And when track conditions change, go back and try the same thing again. See how it feels different, how things change, then take notes or lock that info away in your brain. It helps growth.
If I was running a 2.5-2.8 front spring, normally the rear will be a 2.6-2.7 linear spring. Front softer as a 2.3-2.6 spring (sounds like it would be a better option for you honestly), I'd run a 2.3-2.5 rear spring. Again, it all depends on your layout, driving style, and also positions of the shocks on the tower has a great effect on how it handles and drives.
In recent testing (thanks to a discussion via text with Robbie) I've learned and felt that the rear springs as a 2.6-2.7 rate in position 2 feel the same as a 2.5 in position 3 on the tower, with the exception that the 2.5's allow the front to gain more traction on corner entry.
In the end, it's all how you drive, and what you feel. Nothing will ever replace track time and learning every moment you can. Try things just to try them. And when track conditions change, go back and try the same thing again. See how it feels different, how things change, then take notes or lock that info away in your brain. It helps growth.
#1174
Tech Adept
So you also wasted your track fee configuring your car too?
#1175
Suspended
The front feeling softer than the rear is really normal actually. The geometry of the front suspension is different from the rear in order for the front wheels to clear the shocks when you steer. That difference makes the front end naturally softer, and it is the reason why we typically run thicker oils and/or heavier springs on the front.
#1176
Tech Adept
The front feeling softer than the rear is really normal actually. The geometry of the front suspension is different from the rear in order for the front wheels to clear the shocks when you steer. That difference makes the front end naturally softer, and it is the reason why we typically run thicker oils and/or heavier springs on the front.
#1178
Tech Adept
#1179
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Yeah, it's a fine line between tuning and just driving practice. It's really easy for new people to fall into a trap of constantly making changes to their car and not focusing on driving details. I've seen it done a lot with new people. Some times it's better for a newer driver to make only a change (or two) before you get to the track, and at the track just make sure the car is setup the same way before each run (ride height, camber, tire sauce, etc.) Consistency is key. After the day is over, take notes (temp, wind if outside, track conditions) and determine what you should do to your car for the next time you race.
#1180
Tech Adept
The front feeling softer than the rear is really normal actually. The geometry of the front suspension is different from the rear in order for the front wheels to clear the shocks when you steer. That difference makes the front end naturally softer, and it is the reason why we typically run thicker oils and/or heavier springs on the front.
#1181
Yes. Stiffer oil in the front will make it more responsive and give a bit more steering. I usually always build 0 rebound "dead" shocks.
#1182
Tech Adept
Will 450cst for front and 400cst at the rear do the trick, or does the difference of the oil thickness need to be bigger? Thanks.
#1183
Suspended
Honestly I would recommend starting with the kit setup and adjusting from there. If you think the front of the car rolls a little excessively and you want it to react faster to direction change, then I would go up in 50cst increments until you reach a point where it starts to feel to your liking
The track, temperature and the tire you use will play a factor in what oil is best for you. Sometimes thicker oil isn't necessarily the answer but the above is what usually works for me on carpet.
The track, temperature and the tire you use will play a factor in what oil is best for you. Sometimes thicker oil isn't necessarily the answer but the above is what usually works for me on carpet.
#1184
Tech Adept
Honestly I would recommend starting with the kit setup and adjusting from there. If you think the front of the car rolls a little excessively and you want it to react faster to direction change, then I would go up in 50cst increments until you reach a point where it starts to feel to your liking
The track, temperature and the tire you use will play a factor in what oil is best for you. Sometimes thicker oil isn't necessarily the answer but the above is what usually works for me on carpet.
The track, temperature and the tire you use will play a factor in what oil is best for you. Sometimes thicker oil isn't necessarily the answer but the above is what usually works for me on carpet.
#1185
Tech Adept
More/less flex in low traction track
Hi guys
I understand that having more flex in a high traction track is important. However, in a low traction track, will it be more beneficial to have lesser flex? I was thinking of putting in the extra screws underneath the motor mount in my T4 2016 car since I will be running in a low traction track.
Also, is it recommended to configure anti-squat at my rear (aim is to gain more rear traction) without having anti-dive in front? Will having anti-squat at my rear helps to gain more rear traction?
Thank you.
I understand that having more flex in a high traction track is important. However, in a low traction track, will it be more beneficial to have lesser flex? I was thinking of putting in the extra screws underneath the motor mount in my T4 2016 car since I will be running in a low traction track.
Also, is it recommended to configure anti-squat at my rear (aim is to gain more rear traction) without having anti-dive in front? Will having anti-squat at my rear helps to gain more rear traction?
Thank you.