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Old 04-15-2017 | 08:10 AM
  #28966  
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miha and gigaplex like this.
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Old 04-15-2017 | 09:36 AM
  #28967  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
That's absolutely breathtaking! It truly captures the essence of racing.
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Old 04-15-2017 | 09:39 AM
  #28968  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
missing the upper frame
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Old 04-15-2017 | 12:06 PM
  #28969  
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Originally Posted by Set
missing the upper frame
So picky. Jeez.
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Old 04-15-2017 | 01:04 PM
  #28970  
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never owned a M chassis. This might be a good time to jump into the game.
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Old 04-15-2017 | 04:05 PM
  #28971  
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Make it so Panda...
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Old 04-16-2017 | 01:41 AM
  #28972  
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Ignore the pencil and eraser, they're just in the pic to throw you off.
But...Hello M07

As always, rc-mini provide what the people want!

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Last edited by tony gray; 04-16-2017 at 02:26 AM.
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Old 04-16-2017 | 02:42 AM
  #28973  
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I prefer monkeyracings drawing
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Old 04-16-2017 | 04:40 AM
  #28974  
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That mo7is definitely something else. I can't help but wounder what the mo8 will look like.
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Old 04-16-2017 | 12:04 PM
  #28975  
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Originally Posted by gigaplex
I prefer monkeyracings drawing
Thank you. Tony may have more precision, but I believe I captured the true essence of the new car.
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Old 04-16-2017 | 01:59 PM
  #28976  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Thank you. Tony may have more precision, but I believe I captured the true essence of the new car.
I wish l could claim the penmanship on the drawing Jim but sadly it's from someone at Tamiya and is legitimately the M07, albeit in heavily filtered form.
I do agree your drawing captured the spirit better. It also showed that your drugs are no longer working...
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Old 04-16-2017 | 03:15 PM
  #28977  
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And...some more info M07-wise.

It is compatible with the current machine M - 05 chassis, M - 06 chassis ...

Option parts that are on sale for M - 05 / M - 06 is "I can not use it much".

In addition, optional parts for TA 06 can be used for the redesigned drive system.
· TA-06 Rear Ball Dif (52T) Set
· TA-06 gear differential cross shaft
· TA-06 rear direct coupling 52
· Steel B gear for TA-06 gear differential
· TA-06 steel gear differential unit R
· TA-06 Aluminum Differential J Cup for Gear Different
· TA-06 aluminum gear differential cover
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Old 04-16-2017 | 10:55 PM
  #28978  
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TL;DR: My Mini has strange handling, and I'd like some help.

Well that was an annoying visit to the track. Diffing out madly, but at least not rolling at first. I made some changes and things got much worse.

If you want to know more about the car.... It's at the bottom of the post.

So, I brought my M05 went back to the track. It rolled over more than a happy dog looking for tummy rubs. I glued the sidewalls of the tires, ran it on pavement for a few minutes to clear the over, and my goodness did that help the rollover issue. I was.. happy. Except, I couldn't put power down until I was done wtih a corner. Adding power mid corner just brought on massive wheelspin.

I've heard that adding Tamiya AW grease to the diff is a reasonable plan. I was also told that Tamiya AW grease was "just" anti-seize. ... It's not. I discovered that putting permetex antiseize in the diff on my M05. So "a little" stiffened up the diff.. but also made it feel gritty. But we'll get back to that.

The three different methods I used for "locking" the diff lead to the same behavior. The car, that had a fairly safe push behavior, ended up being almost undrivable. Any steering input was exponential, and leads to snap oversteer. This was with the lightly gooped diff, my diff locker, or the diff packed with antiseize goop.

Adding preload to the front shocks, seemed to help. But there was still the "steering a little, always got me more steering than I wanted".

So after two batteries of beating my head on an un-drivable car, I went and cleaned out the diff, and put it back to normal tamiya grease. Which, thankfully, brought the car back to how it was to begin with. The car did start rolling though... I think either hte glue job is wearing off, or the track was picking up traction as the day went on.

After some testing on the street, I found that my toe in wasn't set the same left and right. And I was running a fair amount of rear camber. The cars current setup is with about 2deg of toe out in the front, with absolutely identical toe in links.

My ultimate goal is to have a car that's stable on corner entry, and can accept the application of throttle mid corner, leading to push, rather than diffing out.

So what do you suggest?

Full car specs:
M05, v2 chassis
Bearings
Stock arms
Stock Springs
Ultra Mini CVA shocks - 2 hole, Yellow (400) oil.
Yeah Racing metal Steering setup
Yeah Racing CVDs
Yeah Racing Metal Rear Upright
Tamiya Adjustable camber links (only in the rear)
Zippy 5000mah 2s 20c LiPo
Turnigy DFT-303 short servo
Tamiya TBLE-02 ESC
BlueMX Reciever
21.5 Sensored Brushless Motor
20 tooth pinion
Stock M05 Tires.

What I have to work with:
Tamiya AW Grease
Tamiya Shock Spacers
Various Shock Oil
500k Diff Oil
Stock rear uprights

What's in the mail:
M05 Version 2 suspension arms
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Old 04-17-2017 | 12:06 AM
  #28979  
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Originally Posted by Nerobro
TL;DR: My Mini has strange handling, and I'd like some help.

Well that was an annoying visit to the track. Diffing out madly, but at least not rolling at first. I made some changes and things got much worse.

If you want to know more about the car.... It's at the bottom of the post.

So, I brought my M05 went back to the track. It rolled over more than a happy dog looking for tummy rubs. I glued the sidewalls of the tires, ran it on pavement for a few minutes to clear the over, and my goodness did that help the rollover issue. I was.. happy. Except, I couldn't put power down until I was done wtih a corner. Adding power mid corner just brought on massive wheelspin.

I've heard that adding Tamiya AW grease to the diff is a reasonable plan. I was also told that Tamiya AW grease was "just" anti-seize. ... It's not. I discovered that putting permetex antiseize in the diff on my M05. So "a little" stiffened up the diff.. but also made it feel gritty. But we'll get back to that.

The three different methods I used for "locking" the diff lead to the same behavior. The car, that had a fairly safe push behavior, ended up being almost undrivable. Any steering input was exponential, and leads to snap oversteer. This was with the lightly gooped diff, my diff locker, or the diff packed with antiseize goop.

Adding preload to the front shocks, seemed to help. But there was still the "steering a little, always got me more steering than I wanted".

So after two batteries of beating my head on an un-drivable car, I went and cleaned out the diff, and put it back to normal tamiya grease. Which, thankfully, brought the car back to how it was to begin with. The car did start rolling though... I think either hte glue job is wearing off, or the track was picking up traction as the day went on.

After some testing on the street, I found that my toe in wasn't set the same left and right. And I was running a fair amount of rear camber. The cars current setup is with about 2deg of toe out in the front, with absolutely identical toe in links.

My ultimate goal is to have a car that's stable on corner entry, and can accept the application of throttle mid corner, leading to push, rather than diffing out.

So what do you suggest?

Full car specs:
M05, v2 chassis
Bearings
Stock arms
Stock Springs
Ultra Mini CVA shocks - 2 hole, Yellow (400) oil.
Yeah Racing metal Steering setup
Yeah Racing CVDs
Yeah Racing Metal Rear Upright
Tamiya Adjustable camber links (only in the rear)
Zippy 5000mah 2s 20c LiPo
Turnigy DFT-303 short servo
Tamiya TBLE-02 ESC
BlueMX Reciever
21.5 Sensored Brushless Motor
20 tooth pinion
Stock M05 Tires.

What I have to work with:
Tamiya AW Grease
Tamiya Shock Spacers
Various Shock Oil
500k Diff Oil
Stock rear uprights

What's in the mail:
M05 Version 2 suspension arms
First of all, kit tyres are fairly rubbish. Start by getting some appropriate tyres. I've heard that the kit tyres can work on carpet as rears, but they're rubbish for asphalt and wear out really fast. Snap oversteer is usually a lack of rear grip. And you'll get massive wheelspin if your front tyres don't have much grip. Given that you've got a bunch of non-Tamiya upgrades I'm guessing you're not following TCS rules. Are there any mini drivers at your track you can ask for advice regarding tyre choice?

Next, download the archived version of rc-mini.net at https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0ByGYc...xport=download and read through the M03 build-up and M03 race setup, followed by the M05 race setup. Most of the stuff in the M03 section still applies to the M05. That should get you to a pretty decent baseline setup.

If you're using the stock long silver springs, get some proper springs so you can get a decent ride height without preloading the springs. Do you have any spacers/orings in your shocks to reduce the droop?

How heavy is the car, and how is the weight distributed?
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Old 04-17-2017 | 01:39 AM
  #28980  
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Originally Posted by Nerobro
TL;DR:
You haven't told us the parts that really matter - tyres, surface and current diff settings.

Diff - Reading between the lines, you are using the kit gear diff. Unless there is a rule that means you HAVE to use it, don't use it. An oil-filled gear diff is the best solution. I use the 3Racing gear diff with a medium-weight oil (around 30k off the top of my head) and that works in most conditions for me.

A good Tamiya option is the TA03 ball diff. Final option is tweaking the gear diff with greases and shims but even if you get it working, the setting will change over time so it is a high maintenance solution.

Tyres - are critical. Let the local "fast" racers guide you because they have probably done the testing already and you can just copy what they are using. Superglue on the sidewalls is a magic solution for traction roll on carpet, without compromising traction (it seems you are on carpet).

Assuming you have built the car well, suspension settings and weight distribution are just tweaks. Most of a mini's setup is tyres and diff.
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