Tamiya TT02 Thread
#1277
Not sure about offroad, but onroad using the outer holes make this side of the car more agile. In theory the damper gets a little "harder". If you change the front to the outter holes it will react faster and more directly to steering inputs. The rear position is mostly in a more lay down position than the front. If you use the outter upper hole here, the rear will turn better with the car, but is more likely to step out on the limit. Using the inner holes will generate a more calm and forgiving rear end.
So I would use these positions to fine tune the balance of the chassis, even though you feel these changes much less than on a pro cfk chassis car.
So I would use these positions to fine tune the balance of the chassis, even though you feel these changes much less than on a pro cfk chassis car.
#1278
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,313
From: Chicagoland
So, I've got a TT02 chassis with a rather hot motor in it. I stripped the ring and pinion to my front diff.
What's the recomended way to hardening the drivetrain to deal with high horsepower on the TT02?
I ordered the GPM steel ring gear... I've heard about using some other tamiya cars metal gear diffs, but I can't find a good set of part numbers for those.
Thank you!
What's the recomended way to hardening the drivetrain to deal with high horsepower on the TT02?
I ordered the GPM steel ring gear... I've heard about using some other tamiya cars metal gear diffs, but I can't find a good set of part numbers for those.
Thank you!
#1279
Thread Starter
Tech Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,458
From: santa monica / manchester
Check nothing was binding. For onroad the drivetrain is strong for most motors. I've even mounted a 5.5t in one
The only mods were bearings and the alloy prop and cups.
If you want steel diffs the TT01 had heavy steel diff internals. So a TT01 differential will fit.
The only mods were bearings and the alloy prop and cups. If you want steel diffs the TT01 had heavy steel diff internals. So a TT01 differential will fit.
#1282
Tech Adept
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 163
From: UK
. Perhaps you're unlucky, I run a boosted 13.5 in my TT02B and the front diff is fine. The rear clicks occasionally but I do drive it with due consideration for it not having a slipper so no landing off jumps under power.
#1284
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,313
From: Chicagoland
do you have your diffs shimmed? I don't.... I ordered some shims so I can make the mesh tighter. The diff has something like half a MM of side to side play, and that's a large fraction of the tooth engagement...
#1285
Tech Adept
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 163
From: UK
Yes. From memory it's a single 0.2mm shim. They can vary depending on the mould tolerance of the individual chassis. One of my TT02 cars has diffs shimmed with a 0.1mm in front but a 0.3 in the rear! You don't want to take all the backlash out though or the drivetrain will be too tight.
#1286
Tech Adept
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 163
From: UK
As the R uses regular TT02 top and bottom arms I believe you can shorten to 251 like a regular TT02. The alloy hubs shouldn't stop you doing that. Caveat: I don't have an R but too many normal ones and far too many Type S versions lol.
#1287
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,313
From: Chicagoland
I've also got the fancy hard chassis.
#1288
Tech Adept
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 163
From: UK
I too have the Hard Deck in blue on my recently rebuilt Type S. I ran it last weekend on gray carpet with an old 17x2 brushed motor and it felt very direct. I like it a lot.
#1290
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,269
Hello All,
After 7 years I am getting back into an "on-road" car after my F201 and TA-03 were stolen in a home robbery. I found a sealed TT02 Porsche RSR on RCgroups for $100 delivered so I thought what the heck. I am a big rally fan (I own a full scale '84 Audi Turbo quattro coupe) and plan on building this into a rally car.
With that said I have read quite a bit on the TT02 last night but have some questions on some parts I am looking at.
Shocks- Are the 54753 Super Mini CVA the correct shock to go with? As for oil should I go 40wt or drop down to 30wt for rally?
Shims- One thing I have learned about Tamiya kits over the years is that shimming the suspension helps a lot. I am assuming that I need 3MM ID shims for that? I have also read that it is a good idea to shim the diff's and wondering what size shims I need for that.
Steering- One thing that annoys me is sloppy steering. While I am trying to keep this a pretty budget build and not looking to go full Aluminum I am wondering if the 54550 stepped screws are worthwhile? They are cheap and I have read some positive reviews. On the TA03 it was common practice to use small o-rings in the ball links to take out some slop, it this necessary on the TT02?
Differentials- So I am use to ball diffs but reading about using different weight grease and oil in the diffs to get the proper limiting effects. I laymans terms what should I put in the front and rear?
Bearings- Already ordered.
I also have an old Novak Havoc 17.5 turn motor/ESC which was going to go in the TA03 back in the day. The motor looks like it is 2200KV so I am guessing the stock gearing would be fine?
Anything I am missing?
Thanks.
Cheers,
Jim
After 7 years I am getting back into an "on-road" car after my F201 and TA-03 were stolen in a home robbery. I found a sealed TT02 Porsche RSR on RCgroups for $100 delivered so I thought what the heck. I am a big rally fan (I own a full scale '84 Audi Turbo quattro coupe) and plan on building this into a rally car.
With that said I have read quite a bit on the TT02 last night but have some questions on some parts I am looking at.
Shocks- Are the 54753 Super Mini CVA the correct shock to go with? As for oil should I go 40wt or drop down to 30wt for rally?
Shims- One thing I have learned about Tamiya kits over the years is that shimming the suspension helps a lot. I am assuming that I need 3MM ID shims for that? I have also read that it is a good idea to shim the diff's and wondering what size shims I need for that.
Steering- One thing that annoys me is sloppy steering. While I am trying to keep this a pretty budget build and not looking to go full Aluminum I am wondering if the 54550 stepped screws are worthwhile? They are cheap and I have read some positive reviews. On the TA03 it was common practice to use small o-rings in the ball links to take out some slop, it this necessary on the TT02?
Differentials- So I am use to ball diffs but reading about using different weight grease and oil in the diffs to get the proper limiting effects. I laymans terms what should I put in the front and rear?
Bearings- Already ordered.
I also have an old Novak Havoc 17.5 turn motor/ESC which was going to go in the TA03 back in the day. The motor looks like it is 2200KV so I am guessing the stock gearing would be fine?
Anything I am missing?
Thanks.
Cheers,
Jim





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