When I built my XB8E a couple years ago the manual shows the recommended width measurement of the built diff so you would have a better idea if you maybe didn't have the screws tight enough. I don't know why more manufacturers don't do the same thing, it would sure limit the variables.

Xrays attention to detail is off the charts. They I think have more resources to do such things since it is comparatively a smaller operation then AE.

The B64 is my first 4 wheeler. Never built a gear diff before. I wish that there would have been a little note in the manual indicating that the shimming shown in the manual was only a starting reference, and that adding or removing shims on either side would probably be necessary. I'm sure that's common knowledge for most of you guys, but for someone like me, I just didn't think about it. So now, I'm going to have to pull out each gear box to check it which is kind of annoying after my car is already fully assembled. Kind of annoying. If I wouldn't have read this forum I would've never known.

Anyway, if you are a gear diff noob like me, here is a great video by Ty Tessman that explains how to get your shimming right and how to check for binding.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XAlqodKEcrU

It only takes a few screws and the diff is in your hand. No need to disassemble the car.

you probably could've won in a B4, honestly.

Very true, and probably my favorite part of the car. When I wanna tune a diff I don't wanna spend ten minutes getting diff out. This car is 5 screws and sway bar link set screws and it's in your hand. It takes me about 30 seconds to get the diff out. Is anyone running the gearbox shim

All Europeans are anal about technical stuff Somebody bought a jacket in Germany and it came with a owners manual on how to use all the pockets.
I have found more times then not that if you get it close in this case 7-1 just run it it will break in. If it doesn't that means you built it wrong. Relax

Don't minimize my problems bro. watch those micro-aggressions.

its definitely a plus, coming from a car that was very quick for diff removal (DEX410V5) to my current car (HB D413) that can definitely be a big plus thats for sure.

So I called AE support and boy was that amusing. I didn't catch the name on the other end but he had never heard of anyone having any shimming issues with the 64..LOL.

He didn't really have anything to offer except to inspect the gears real close to see if there were any burrs.

I did try and tighten the diff screws a bit more but I'm afraid to go too far and either strip the holes or break the scews.

Right now at 8-0 I don't have the binding so I may leave it that way and after a run or two recheck and try to re-shim it.

A couple of the smaller bags are in with bigger bags and not marked.

can't get the manual to open for some reason, but on the B64D do they specify a certain weight to fill the diffs to? (by that I mean using a small scale zeroed out to the weight of the diff, fill to say "1.4 grams"). This what durango did and I liked it as I didn't have issues with under or overfilling from what I could tell.

Curious if there are negatives to that.

Not weight, but they show what level to fill to. You could always weigh it after filling to the proper level. Next question is does 10k weigh the same as 100k given the same amt?

Please don't make the same mistake I did. Inspect your diff cases before using. Patching the hole would have been alot easier if I didn't have to clean out the 10k first.

Anybody know the hinge pin sizes off hand? Want to buy an arm reamer(s), but don't have my kit with me. I'm assuming 3-4mm