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Old 02-04-2017, 06:03 PM
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Im selling my RSD V2 12th if anyone is interested
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post14826309
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Old 02-05-2017, 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by chris moore
So has or is anyone running a Sanwa SRG servo on a T2? Curious as to how how many and where you placed shims to get the steering turnbuckles level.
I run the airtronics 94761z which has similar dimensions to the srg.
With the unimount I used 2x2mm bulkhead shims to lower the servo 4mm, almost touching the chassis.
Then use 2.5mm on the steering knuckles to take away bump steer. I also use a tall neck ball stud. If using a normal ballstud you may need 1mm more.
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Old 02-06-2017, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Jorge T
I run the airtronics 94761z which has similar dimensions to the srg.
With the unimount I used 2x2mm bulkhead shims to lower the servo 4mm, almost touching the chassis.
Then use 2.5mm on the steering knuckles to take away bump steer. I also use a tall neck ball stud. If using a normal ballstud you may need 1mm more.
Thanks Jorge, tried doing that but the servo didn't feel solid to me which prompted my question. In looking back through the thread I saw where Landau had removed the unimount and used short standoffs, thinking of trying this method.
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Old 02-06-2017, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by chris moore
Thanks Jorge, tried doing that but the servo didn't feel solid to me which prompted my question. In looking back through the thread I saw where Landau had removed the unimount and used short standoffs, thinking of trying this method.
That is the same that I did. Ended up using the tweak plate stand offs. Only had to shim the servo down a mm or 2. Plus I liked how it gave a steeped angle on the shock.
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Old 02-06-2017, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by chris moore
So has or is anyone running a Sanwa SRG servo on a T2? Curious as to how how many and where you placed shims to get the steering turnbuckles level.
I run a sanwa srg servo in my T2 without problems. I use the standard floating servo mount and standard servo posts.

Regards, Gero
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Old 02-06-2017, 03:58 PM
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This is how I have mine on my 2 cars and it has been solid.

Attached Thumbnails RSD RR12 12th Scale Pan Car Kit-20170206_174717-1.jpg  
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Old 02-06-2017, 07:11 PM
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Hey guys do any of you have the assembly pictures AKA "manual" for the T2 ??
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Old 02-07-2017, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Jorge T
This is how I have mine on my 2 cars and it has been solid.

Thanks Jorge and Chad for the info and pics. I had it like yours Jorge but I could "rock" the servo back and forth some which would lead to inconsistent handling. Still playing with it and will post pics with what I end up with. On a side note what brand servo saver is the Jorge, the Kimbrough I have hangs down below the chassis. Not much and I doubt it would drag but perhaps there is another brand that wouldn't.

Gero, do you have any pics of your servo? Did you remove the mounting tabs on the side of the servo case?
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Old 02-08-2017, 09:21 AM
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Gero, do you have any pics of your servo? Did you remove the mounting tabs on the side of the servo case?[/QUOTE]

Sorry, actually im not at home but i can send you Pictures in approximately 2 weeks.
Yes, for this type of mounting i had to remove 2 of the 4 Tabs on the case.
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Old 02-09-2017, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Gero
Gero, do you have any pics of your servo? Did you remove the mounting tabs on the side of the servo case?
Sorry, actually im not at home but i can send you Pictures in approximately 2 weeks.
Yes, for this type of mounting i had to remove 2 of the 4 Tabs on the case.[/QUOTE]

No worries, I figured that you had removed the tabs. I'm trying to find a way so that I don't have to remove any of the mounting tabs, just in case I were to move the servo to one of my other cars at some time.
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Old 02-09-2017, 04:36 PM
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Servo saver is xray the one with 3 springs. Stiffer than most except the xray 4 spring.
I dremeled the bottom off flush with the metal spring and will not stick down below the chassis.
My servo does not move. It is clamped down. The servo saver will activate before my servo moves.



Originally Posted by chris moore
Thanks Jorge and Chad for the info and pics. I had it like yours Jorge but I could "rock" the servo back and forth some which would lead to inconsistent handling. Still playing with it and will post pics with what I end up with. On a side note what brand servo saver is the Jorge, the Kimbrough I have hangs down below the chassis. Not much and I doubt it would drag but perhaps there is another brand that wouldn't.

Gero, do you have any pics of your servo? Did you remove the mounting tabs on the side of the servo case?
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Old 02-10-2017, 09:57 AM
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Thanks Jorge
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Old 02-25-2017, 10:07 AM
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So here is what I decided on for mounting my servo, I ended up using two 15mm standoffs instead of the unimount. then using just one 2mm spacer on each side between the servo and the floating mount I am able to achieve a nice half mm gap between the servo and the chassis. This feels more solid than using a stack of shims (to me anyway) and as you can see between the two pics it also gives me more adjustability on the shock angle. Just need to add electronics and wire everything and it will be ready to hit the track.


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Old 02-25-2017, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by chris moore
So here is what I decided on for mounting my servo, I ended up using two 15mm standoffs instead of the unimount. then using just one 2mm spacer on each side between the servo and the floating mount I am able to achieve a nice half mm gap between the servo and the chassis. This feels more solid than using a stack of shims (to me anyway) and as you can see between the two pics it also gives me more adjustability on the shock angle. Just need to add electronics and wire everything and it will be ready to hit the track.


I would suggest to use a 3rd post to install the cf servo mount bracket, right where you have the shock mounted. The holes match up with the ones on the chassis.

The unimount with shims is far more stable than just 2 posts due to the surface area contact. The 2 posts holes are fairly close, so it will cause the cf bracket to rotate when you have board taps. The third posts prevents this from happening, this is actually how I would run my car in spec classes when I wanted to get down to minimum weight with the Reedy motor. The chassis has the holes on the bottom of the chassis match the CF piece for this reason.
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Old 02-25-2017, 10:21 AM
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Great suggestion, thanks Cristian!
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