I use the same. They are a better fit if you are NOT running short lengths. Less threads show if using the b5m JC fins on a b6 than if you used B6 on a b6.

Sure and I just ordered the damn things.

Short answer on why and when different axles are needed?

New parts offer more rear grip. Seems mostly used when running the laydown trans on clay.

What would be the benefit of using the longer axles? I did see Kurt testing a few things... OCRC has them in stock now.

longer axles or new hubs?

I just got a 13.5 Orion Super Stock. 40 degree timing on the can using a motor analyzer, 4,000kv. Where should I start with gearing? Indoor shmedium size track.

Your kit manual will have a starting point gearing combo depending on your motor. Start with that then tune motor and gearing according to track .

How tight should the steering link ball cups be on the ball head thing. On my SC10 it is loose and moves freely on this it is snug

Answering my own question here.

78/28 - 174 F
78/25 - 150 F

78/25 feels best.

And this motor is stupid fast. Recommended.

with or without fan? if that's with.. that's not good. If it's without..... add a fan.

Jmuck69, I got lucky and a friend has an extra set of hub inserts to move the bearings outboard... I'm planning to use the 5mm HEX hub to net a 0.5mm width reduction on both sides. sound reasonable?

basing this off of the Ray Munday setup sheets where he had better luck with the Narrow rear track width and use the pills on the bulkheads to narrow up the rear track. Hell some folks just ditch the stock 7mm rear hex and use 6mm (hard to find).

isn't narrow supposed to be worse for stability and cornering but better for speed?

The Yokomo springs were money! They felt softer than the setup that I was using, but offered the suspension action I was looking for on the track with the handling too.

Ended up qualifying second for the main but then got mauled coming out a double and was out of sorts at that point.

I am thinking I need just a bit more off power rotation but I think the buggy is pretty good to go.

I did go with "2" positions forward from rear most position on the battery with the VRP battery brace if that makes sense. That helped too with steering.

Also, using schuey staggers up front, jconcepts flipouts on the rear (we cannot used hardpin carpet tires on rear) and that combo worked well. Be curious if a slick in super soft could be a nice setup too.

Heres a little trick for you or anyone else who is running into this problem take a plastic wrapper that your parts come in and cut a little square out of it maybe a 1/2inch by 1/2 inch and place it over the ball stud then snap the ball cup over the plastic it will take up the slack or gap and feel nice and tight and wont bind up the turnbuckle 👍

Is the aluminum D mount and inserts a good hop up to have? Is it much better for making adjustments?