Just buy the .4 you know you want it. plus now you will already have spares

Even if though it is unconventional I ordered the F/R hubs, spindles, uni's, outer hinge pins and bearings to make it work.

How did handling improve by changing the hole on the servo arm? The only difference should be slightly quicker steering and slightly less torque. Nothing will change in the actual steering geometry.

Hey guys im very interested in getting a Tekno eb48.3 because of the price right now. Is the .4 really that much better or will a novice racer never notice?

The .3 is a very good E buggy, but the .4 is even better!

I Love my eb48.3, I do have the .4, but have yet to run it. So I can't really give an answer. I know the guys that have run it are in love.

The .3 is a good kit, but the .4 is better overall. It's just easier and more forgiving to drive but still has that precise feel to it.
I would say that a beginner to intermediate driver would benefit from the .4 more than a expert to pro driver would. When you make a mistake with the .4 it's just not as bad or as big of a deal as it was with the .3, the car doesn't get tossed around as easily. Since a beginner makes more mistakes than a pro they'll be able to put in more consistent laps with the .4.

read it again. I said the s1 body does not have space for the updated steering. Too bad because the body improved handling. I explained that with the .3 steering and with the hole on the inner servo horn hole it fit.

Why does this always happen? I didn't say switching the horn position changed handling. I said the s1 body fit my previous setup, which had the hole on the inner side of the horn. Reason why I switched to the outside hole is because I got a stronger servo and didn't need to go with the inner one. Please do not misunderstand and think I'm crediting the new servo for handling too. I'm not. Just the body.

It is. You get quieter smoother universal driveshafts, quieter smoother ring and pinion, then there's shock cap and springs. I'm tired of saying it but steering is far better. Don't know if the wide rear hinge pin brace improves handling, but the screw that secures it now uses 2.5 driver, which eases the mind because the 2.0 screw looks as if it will strip out after going through the gearbox a few times. I see no use for the new spindle carriers. The ball bearings there only add weight and bearings can't be cleaned out from dust. The .3 is easy to clean that area and I bet the bearings don't improve performance on the. 4

Bottom line, there are updates that make the .4 worth getting. If you were to get the .3 and upgrade it to the .4 you'd be spending more money then just getting the. 4. Pay $5 for the super saver club at tower and you get several coupon codes, one if the codes gives you $75 off if you spend at least $499.

I wish I waited for the .4 instead of getting the .3 for $360. Right now .4 is $550+$5 supersaver membership-$75 off and you pay $480. Last month I think there was $90 off.

If you go with the .3 just get the updated ackerman plate, bellcrank steering and two 3x10 button head screws. Should be good enough. Maybe even as good.

.

Are the spindles a direct fit on .3 arms? Or are the .4 arms and hing pin braces required? Do the .4 rear hubs also fit on .3 rear arms? Thinking about universals too; are the new. 4 universal driveshafts compatible with .3 hubs and carriers?

For the front you will have to change all together- Arms, Hubs, Spindles and Universals.
Rear - C&D block, Arms, Hubs and Universals

Tekno does have Universals that fit the .3 though if you want to try that.

Should i get a 14tooth pinion gear if im running a 1900kv?

Joe will the .3 rear hubs fit on the .4 arms to allow the use of cvd's (at least in the rear)?

Maybe if you are on a really small tight track, I'm not sure if it will fit though (Too big of a gap from spur gear)?