If you remove those and still plan on using the mip diff there is going to be an incredible amount of left to right movement in the diff. You would need to revert back to the stock diff/bones.

but if the bone is hitting the t-nut, removing those shims probably shifts the whole diff over enough to keep that from happening (well, doesn't stop it from happening but when it does, the whole diff moves so there is no bind). obviously not the way you want to handle the problem though.

Then you are going to shift the diff over when that nut hits the outdrive under power and I can bet the results aren't going to be good.

Anyone try the Imbue Brass pistons for the shocks?

I'm wondering if he is running the cv shims out on the axles in the carriers and removed them, not the ones on the outdrives.

Tried 7K before on both my b6 and xb2 and considering its pretty cold in the track right now, the rear breaks loose coming out of ALL the corners , even just slightly giving gas exiting out a 90 or 180 degree. Reason I went to 4K....which helped a lot. I treed loosening the slipper but I would sacrifice snap to clear the jumps

With the temps etc it may be wise to try a ball diff. I'll bet this looping out issue goes away or try to land right in the middle at say 5k diff fluid

Reason I say that is in my experience you need a serious amount of grip for a gear diff to work in a 2 wheel buggy.

This is what I did wrong wording sorry.

So I have a nice broken in diff for a big race coming up but I want to turn tons of practice laps. I have a brand new gear diff I was wanting to run to learn the track. What gear diff oil should I use to be close to what a nice ball diff would feel like

anyone try alum shock towers? thoughts un these?

Tight or loose... thick or thin... try 5000.. or split it with the 3 to make ya some 4

You'll spend more time taking the diff out than you will changing the oil. I have some 3000, 5000 & 7000 from my 1/8th buggy I've been experimenting with. But I also have an extra gear diff to prep with different weight for a quicker change if need be..

Would using shock oil 100 weight or less be bad. Can u make a gear diff turn smooth

Hey love this thread and just getting back into things after being away for many years. I bought a B6 and went to the local track to see what the common specs and requirements were. The requirements are pretty relaxed and for stock some people are running 17.5t and some people are doing 13.5t. So my questions is: Would it be stupid to buy a 17.5t and 13.5t motor if I can get a deal? Initially I would like to take some time to get used to things again so I thought starting with the 17.5t would make sense...

I'm not sure how shock oil weights stand against gear oil weights...