Thank you for all the replies regarding the antenna situation, very helpful.

How much steering throw is normally used on the 1/12 scale cars?

We had a race this past weekend where I ran 1/12th for the first time in 11 years. The only class offered was 1s blinky 17.5. While the action was good, it was not very exciting to drive. Even on a not-so-great parking lot surface, the cars needed more motor. We are looking in to switching our local class over to 2s. I think there was only one or two people who had an ESC with a built-in booster. I personally ran a receiver pack.

What experiences have you had with 2s in 1/12th? We were thinking starting out with 21.5 to make sure they aren't out of control fast. Any ideas where to start with gearing/rollout on 2s?

Pulled my REEDY apart to change rotors and found some metal shavings inside stuck to the magnet,cleaned it the best i could and the motor seems to run fine,has any one else saw this??ii I know its not good,I killed a few helicopter motors and all had shavings in them,Its pretty much on the way south,what to u guys think??Thanks fr the input

I was told back in the day to have jjust the amount u need to get the car around the track and a little to spare in the bank so to speak.My dr is round 45 to 55 on the radio,it depends on the track and the cars set up,try 45 dual rate and go from there,U will never use all the throw the car can give

I usually adjust for a minimum turning circle of about 4 feet for an indoor carpet track, and a somewhat larger circle for a large outdoor track. If I feel I need a tighter circle, then I adjust the car for more front grip, not more steering lock.

It's a good idea to always specify the amount of steering by the turning circle diameter, since due to differences in servos, steering knuckles, and (most of all) radios, stating a percentage of throw on the transmitter won't translate to a different car/servo/transmitter.

So you r saying start with a 4 foot turning circle and add sterring with setup rather then just giving it some more steering with the dual rate?

I was told that when you push the car with your hand, when using full lock the car should turn around in half the width of the lane.
That should give you more than you need

I've had three or more years experience with 21.5/2s. It's faster that's for sure, but manageable.

Depending on motor and track size I would look at starting around 70-85 mm for rollout. As I mentioned this is all dependent on your motor and rotor. In Japan I used to race a 21.5 motor with a 14.00 mm rotor which required a 100 mm rollout.

You have to test and tune for each motor.

Yes. Correcting understeer gives me better lap times. More throw isn't nearly as effective, since it doesn't really fix the problem.

Thanks Howard ,will pay closer mind to my setup,how will you fix a push on corner exit?I am using green rears double blue fronts.

Depending on your entry and mid corner steering feel I would say that increasing your caster angle would fix an on power push. However the fix could also be tires. I've seen Blue/Green work well, I've seen Blue/Blue work well, but I've never really seen anyone run Double Blue/Green.

Gonna add my 2 cents started in 1982 and has worked ever since. Adjust left and right throw (EPA) to full lock just to where the servo is not straining (you'll be able to hear the servo straining). Put car on track and adjust steering throw(dual rate) to where you can get through the tightest turn on the track fast.
Don't be afraid to adjust dual rate throughout the day as track conditions change.

There are several ways to reduce on-power understeer, as other RCTechies have mentioned. I'll address one that is not usually given: lowering the center of gravity (CG) as much as possible. Keep the ride height as low permissible, and the radio components and wiring as low possible. Another possibility, depending on the car, is to lengthen the wheelbase. I have had good luck running my XTi in the long/long (chassis/motor pod) configuration, which reduces weight transfer under acceleration just like a lower CG does.

The nice thing about lowering the CG and/or lengthening the wheelbase is that it also makes the car less "pointy" on turn-in, which is great for those of us whose reflexes have slowed over the years.

Thanks Danny,was thinking of trying blue fronts,might give it go this weekend.I did increase caster,just need to try her out n c,again thanks for the help