Same reason they run the laydown—to be cooler than the amount of traction their track has.

B6D showing up next week and I want y'all to know I actually read this entire thread...

Just waiting to get my hands dirty figuring out all these lil adjustments...

been running a Tekno SL for the last few months. 2wd, slipper clutch, weight difference?.. all new territory..

Did you install the 2mm washer under the ball stud like the manual says? If you did just remove it.

First, I've built the laydown and stand up three gear tranny and ran them back to back and worked on set ups for both. The laydown, if you have the traction, keeps the rear end flatter and let's you drive through the turns better. The stand up tranny does have more overall traction but it feels more like the pendulum effect you had when you compared the old rear motor to the first generation of mid motor cars. Even adding the brass c mount in the landown tranny felt better than the standup. So it's a tuning thing, not necessarily a fad. Yes you can just add weight right in front of the aluminum mount to achieve nearly the same effect. I like the brass mount for having the weight in a consistent location. It's splitting hairs but it makes me feel better when testing that I can duplicate setups more consistently

you should watch the review by ShortCourseWorld, Jason on youtube , It was very helpful and informative

LOL. I have both cars and they have different rears so that's why I asked in both places.

I've only ever owned AE and TLR...never going back to TLR after this car, it's awesome. Best car I've ever owned.

That being said, both companies shocks always have to have a slight rebound, always to have some "suction" back into the shock, and after being run a few minutes have a squeaky or squishy noise and feel to them. I've been told it doesn't matter but my OCD won't let me believe it. Saw a build video for the RB6 shocks and they seem to be totally "dead" after bleeding from the bottom cartridge. The K shocks are expensive but after buying the kashimas and chrome shafts it's not a big difference.

Yes it does fit, the newer packets say B5 B6 , you use these little alloy shims with the B6

The manual doesn't call for a washer on the stock plastic parts.

Not under the ballistud that I am referring to anyway...

This may have been asked before, and if so sorry.

What is the weight of the stock plastic bulkhead?

I'm looking for a little more bite in the front, and I'm thinking the brass bulkhead might be too heavy (17.5) and wondering what the weight difference is btwn the stock bulkhead and the Al one.

Thanks in advance.

Overall total shock length is the same for both sets of eyelets. I measured them guys... The difference in length is in the top threaded part of the eyelet. That 5mm ball sits right at the bottom of the shock shaft when fully tightened down with both eyelets. The lower spring retainer moves relatively.

Much ado about nothing.

That's because you are not supposed to tighten the eyelet all the way on the shaft. You are supposed to screw them in until you get the stroke it shows in the manual. If you are using the long eyelets and screwing them all the way in until they bottom out you are effectively adding downtravel limiters.

Just pickup a set of stick on weights and give each cube a try. If I remember correctly, there is plenty of room under the steering rack to place it.

Your best bet would be to post a picture. Or go through the manual again double checking it again.

Thinking about picking up another one of these for my daughters to use. I saw someone post about the RPM wide front bumper fitting, how durable are the front arms turning out to be compared to say a b4? (that would be my point of reference)

Just trying to see what I would need to up armor for them.