No they dont need to be squeezed, and Yes they work on the 5 series

Depends on the surface. You can get a D and for $27 have a laydown as well to swap in. Can't beat that.

Long and short eyelet same overall shock length. Short eyelet lowers the spring vs long.

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I don't think it makes much difference in the end.

EDIT: Confirmed. All the eyelets do is move the relative position of the spring and shock collar on the shock body to maintain same ride height. The short eyelet allows more compression at the extreme. The only difference I can see.

This is incorrect. Shock eyelet length can change overall length of the shock. If you adjust the stroke by turning the short eyelet out to get the same relative shock length, you end up with more up travel. If you want to move the relative position of the spring, change the shock cup.

Thanks Matt. I should have been a little more specific, but the surface would be indoor clay that is medium to high bite.

Are most people just buying the 6D and purchasing the lay down tranny?

Yup they are. Check with your local hobby shop they may have an abundance of B6 kits and they may be able to make it the 6D kit for the price of the 6D and you can end up with all the other stuff in the regular 6 kit.

That's what I did. I always preferred the flat arms / tower on my 5m and I don't really have the need for the gear diff that comes in the B6 yet. D comes with the Ball Diff.

Thanks for your help guys. I am a little out of the loop since it has been awhile since I have raced offroad. Any other special components needed for the 6D except the laydown tranny?

The only thing I would recommend is the aluminum D mount. It allows a lot of tuning options vs the plastic one in the kit. The kit comes with all the inserts so you don't need those.

ASC91688 is the part number.

Sean - the longer eyelets also make the shock longer, which can translate to more shock extension, which can impact weight transfer. So in terms of weight transfer a long eyeleted rear shock (compared to short) can result in more front/less rear traction on braking, impact the rear traction in turns, etc.

That is what I did. I also prefer the flat arms and ball diff. Plus the "D" comes with springs that are more condusive to dirt (softer). A bunch of locals run the gulwing arms in 17.5 here, but they are all just copying a team driver we have locally. most of them dont even know why they are running gulwings, lol

My servo link did, but all the others are perfect right out of the box. The threads really need chapstick or the front camber links won't go on far enough.

Has anyone tried to mount Kyosho rb6 shocks on their b6? The stroke is about the same, I'm wondering about the top and bottom mount holes?

TIA

You plan to mount these on a B5 or B6? You asked in both threads.

As an AE "purist"...keep your K parts off my AE

I just started my build this afternoon. My bellcrank ballstud is hitting the top plate when the steering rack moves to the left, and I don't even have the link ball cup on it yet. Do I have something assembled wrong?