It really depends on what you're trying to achieve. If it's for practice and getting a feel of the car and track then run the tires straight out of the package. You can run them down to the rim if you like. However, you'll notice the traction and stability will start to decrease. That said, you should keep a few things in mind 1: tires wear down the ride height goes down. Try to keep the ride height around 3.6-4.0 - depends on the asphalt. Check the tires stagger, what I mean by this is make sure the front wheels are 0.5~1.5 mm smaller in diameter then the rear. Always sauce the rears for 45-60 minutes, and fronts 5-15 minutes. This really comes down to your tire choice and traction additive.

For racing I would start at 43 front and 44 rear. Everything else I've stated above applies to race tires.

Hope this helps.

what steering servo do you use guys

iam looking for a real good one

Futaba S9650
Or on the high end Futaba BLS671SVi

Thanks Edward. Your YouTube channel has been a big help.

I tried Futaba BLS671SVi and KO RSx Twelve 12. I prefer the Futaba, the KO did some weird things on the setup board (shaking around center) this could have caused me to do some major crashes as well (at least I want to blame that instead of my driving )

For the record I run Futaba radio.

The Shaking is usually a result of the bushing or bearing going bad and the digital servo is trying to find center.

I'll stick with the tried and true Futaba 9650 servo

I noticed it from when it was more or less new.

I do have another one which I did not notice this problem with tho. Oviously I normally use the "better one.."

Hello everyone, I could really use some guidance with setting up my Hobbywing Justock Club Spec ESC. I'm getting back into the hobby and these types of ESC's are pretty new to me. I have looked through other posts but do not see an answer to the problem I'm having. Any help that can be sent my way would be greatly appreciated.

I have the ESC in my 1/12 scale 12R5.2 running a 1 cell battery using the ESC's BEC and not running a separate battery pack. When I apply full throttle the green light comes on indicating full throttle. However, the car is moving at a pace FAR LESS than maximum throttle input. I have used the programming card to change the Cut Off Threshold to non protected as read in another post was required to do when using this ESC with a 1 cell battery.

What I have also found odd is that the program card has an option, number 12, that would allow me to select the lipo cell count of the battery I am using but the program card only operates up to option 9 and will not allow me to go to option 12 on the program card.

Do I not have something configured correctly within the transmitter such as propper end points or is there another setting within the ESC that I'm missing entirely? I've read countless posts where this ESC is being used with a 1 cell pack but I'm not certain how users were able to get it to work.

Any help regarding how to proceed would be greatly appreciated!

Edward Pickering videos helped me get up to speed in 1/12th scale! Thanks Edward!!

Sounds like you didn't set the throttle range. Just push the set up button to put it in program mode with the throttle in neutral, push the button again and go to full throttle, push the button again and go to full brake. One more push and you should be good to go.

Hello. I need to put smaller wires from my lrp flow to lrp 4t motor. What gauge and brand u recommend ? I'm using stock that came with esc and way to stiff and thick?

TQ brand 1000

Tq 1000

I will try setting the throttle range once again tomorrow and report back as to how it works out. I'm certain I went through this process more than once but possibly for some reason it didn't hold the setting.

Thank you very much for the help, I'll report back.

Make sure your subtrim/trim are at 0 and your dual rate and epa are set at 100 as well.